Buckmark barrel swap

[tunahound]

Hello all New here, so here goes! I bought a new barrel for Buckmark. Tried to remove barrel locking setscrew, corkscrewed the allen wrench. Next try, heated frame to 500 degrees, still NO GO! Am I missing something? Thanks

[Raiderh20boy]

I ran into the same situation a few years back. Ended up going to a machine shop and drilled it out and then re-tapped a larger size.

[bugsy714]

Hello all New here, so here goes! I bought a new barrel for Buckmark. Tried to remove barrel locking setscrew, corkscrewed the allen wrench. Next try, heated frame to 500 degrees, still NO GO! Am I missing something? Thanks

Sometimes it takes repeated heating and freezing cycles to break that Loctite try freezing then heating then freezing it took me almost 10 times to break some red Loctite a genius decided to install some back up iron sights on a Picatinny rail with.

They also sell some products that dissolve Loctite or you can try soaking the entire thing in acetone


Dictated but not read, voice typing plus bad eyes equals typos

['ol shooter]

It is installed with locking compound, heat it to release it. I use a soldering iron rested on the screw, heat for a minute and see if it will turn, if not heat again a minute at a time until it does. Red Loctite releases around 425 degrees. Heating your entire frame is a really bad idea, may change the original heat treat or even warp the frame. As was mentioned above, Acetone will dissolve CA based compounds like Super Glue and Loctite. I don't know that I would want to soak the entire frame in it, maybe just heat the screw some and try to wick some Acetone down into the threads by applying with a q-tip.

[ar15barrels]

Most loctites will be defeated by 360 degrees.
There are a couple high temperature types that make it to 450, but they are uncommon.

Most oils smoke around 380 degrees.
If you put some oil on a part and then heat it up until it begins to smoke with the heat source removed, you have reached the smoke point temperature of the oil you are using.
Since most guns already HAVE some oil on them, this is a simple indicator to see if you have reached the smoke point which also happens to be just a little higher than is needed to defeat loctite.

[ar15barrels]

Sometimes it takes repeated heating and freezing cycles to break that Loctite try freezing then heating then freezing
it took me almost 10 times to break some red Loctite

It actually only takes one proper heat cycle to do it.
The heat cycle just needs to exceed the temperature rating of the loctite.
Most people won't get above the loctite temperature because they are afraid of over-heating the gun and they don't have a method to actually check the temperature.

You could heat something to 250 degrees hundreds of times and it's not going to defeat 300 degree tolerant loctite.

[eternoplacer]

If I recall right, and my senility is not betraying me a nice tight fitting allen and a couple of hammer blows to it did the trick.
Of course proper technique is defeating the locktite temperature tolerance, A paint stripping heatgun is my choice for that purpose.
Good luck.

[TKM]

Soldering iron on the screw. Why warp the rest of the frame?

[Sweetscience]

I thought I was alone here!

[bugsy714]

Soldering iron on the screw. Why warp the rest of the frame?

This does work well could probably use that oil trick by putting oil on the frame around the screw so that when you see the oil smoking you know that the screw is hot enough


Dictated but not read, voice typing plus bad eyes equals typos

[ActionExpress]

I have a new Buckmark barrel in the drawer for this very reason. Couldn't get it off! I've read also that the allen key needed is an odd size, and people online shaved down a common size to fit better?

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=891514

"I found that a 3mm hex wrench was a little bit too big for my barrel screw. So I filed down the flats of a 3mm hex wrench until it fit."

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603137

"I have a new Buck Mark Contour and a new Stainless Camper
The barrel screw on the contour takes a 3mm the 7/64 would slip and the Camper takes a 7/64
I polished the 3mm to make it fit smoothly with metal polish
I called Browning they said it was a special size and that the consumer was not intended to remove the barrel that only they had the correct tool."

Might try the above when I get some free time, it shoots amazing as is.

[ar15barrels]

I have a new Buckmark barrel in the drawer for this very reason. Couldn't get it off! I've read also that the allen key needed is an odd size, and people online shaved down a common size to fit better?

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=891514

"I found that a 3mm hex wrench was a little bit too big for my barrel screw. So I filed down the flats of a 3mm hex wrench until it fit."

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603137

"I have a new Buck Mark Contour and a new Stainless Camper
The barrel screw on the contour takes a 3mm the 7/64 would slip and the Camper takes a 7/64
I polished the 3mm to make it fit smoothly with metal polish
I called Browning they said it was a special size and that the consumer was not intended to remove the barrel that only they had the correct tool."

Might try the above when I get some free time, it shoots amazing as is.

Regular allen wrenches drive by the 6 corners of the wrench on the 6 flats.
I bet a Wera Hex Plus 3mm wrench would fit into that special sized setscrew and it would drive the setscrew better than an allen wrench because it drives more like a torx than like an allen key.



McMaster part number 57185A23 for 3mm and 57185A44 for 7/64".
I'll warn you not to buy them though because after using one, you will want the whole set...

[ActionExpress]

Thanks ar15barrels, I've placed an order for both of those SKUs and will give them a go!