Ruger manual: use red loctite on MKIII scope base?

[socal m1 shooter]

The manual for the Ruger MKIII says that red loctite should be used to secure the scope base. Really? I thought red was almost like JB Weld.

I have some purple 222 loctite. Would that be enough? Or blue 242?

[Fatcat]

The main disadvantage of using Loctite red is if you ever have to remove the base You need heat to break the bond. I usually use Loctite blue, never had any issues with any of the bases I’ve screw mounted.

[Garv]

Blue.

Red is very strong as you said and can strip threads.

Just make sure to thoroughly clean the mating surfaces thoroughly before applying.

[sofbak]

The color spectrum for loctite is:

Green= mild servicable joint
Blue=medium serviceable joint
Purple= greater than medium serviceable joint
Red=damn near permanent joint requiring 900 degrees F heat to service

I wouldn't use anything stronger than blue, and maybe green depending on the fastener type I was trying to secure.

[Old4eyes]

This URL states that 500 degree F is what's needed to soften red loctite, not 900. But it's still a lot of heat that your hair dryer isn't going to put out.

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/how-to-remove-loctite-2620-red-threadlocker/

[ar15barrels]

I thought red was almost like JB Weld.

LOL.

All you have to do to break down red Loctite is to heat to 400 degrees.

[ar15barrels]

The color spectrum for loctite is:

Green= mild servicable joint
Blue=medium serviceable joint
Purple= greater than medium serviceable joint
Red=damn near permanent joint requiring 900 degrees F heat to service

I wouldn't use anything stronger than blue, and maybe green depending on the fastener type I was trying to secure.

Wrong.

Purple = Low strength
Blue = Medium strength
Red = High Strength

Wicking Brown = Low Strength Adjustable (applied to an assembled thread joint)
Wicking Blue = Low Strength (applied to an assembled thread joint)
Wicking Green = High Strength (applied to an assembled thread joint)

There is also a thick Green is for cylindrical parts instead of threads.

[sofbak]

Got all that from a former Heinkle rep-whatever...

Bottom line still holds-"I wouldn't use anything stronger than blue, and maybe green (there is a none-wicking vrrsion) depending on the fastener type I was trying to secure."

[ar15barrels]

Got all that from a former Heinkle rep-whatever...

Bottom line still holds-"I wouldn't use anything stronger than blue, and maybe green (there is a none-wicking vrrsion) depending on the fastener type I was trying to secure."

The non-wicking green is 620 which is not a threadlocker.

[sofbak]

Like I said-"whatever".

Bottom line, DON'T USE THE RED, unless you're willing to take a torch to it for service/removal.

[squeeze]

Like I said-"whatever".

Bottom line, DON'T USE THE RED, unless you're willing to take a torch to it for service/removal.

S&W used red on the rear sight on my shield. It was a really HUGE problem getting the rear sight off. Had to use HEAT. Won't ever allow RED in my house!

[Joefear7]

Mines been on for years and thousands of rounds with no loctite at all

[newbie1234]

I am a Republican (RED) but for Lock-Tite on anything I have to go with BLUE.

[MongooseV8]

For the little screws I use Purple and Blue on the larger screws.

[MOA squirrel]

Use a clean tipped soldering iron to heat screws with red locktite.
No need to use a torch.