AR 22 trigger

[ARFrog]

I have a dedicated AR 22 that works fine in every respect - it eats anything and is reliable - but it has a very stiff/heavy trigger pull. (Note: current trigger is from an enhanced Spikes Tactical Mil-spec lower parts group. It is funny but I have two other identical ones that seem much lighter or smoother and I don't get as much shot jerk from them doing a stiff/hard break.)

My question is anybody using drop in style triggers for their AR 22? And if so, how does the extra dirt/grit/smuttz of dirty .22 cal combustion effect the enclosed drop in trigger? More or less reliable than Mil-spec? Harder to clean? Worth the effort or expense? Picky to run or very forgiving?

I would appreciate hearing your perspective. I am trying to decide if I need to spend some more time polishing the existing one; replacing it with another Mil-spec; or going the drop-in trigger route.

[crufflers]

Depends on your tastes, but who likes a heavy gritty on/off trigger on any gun? I have so many nice .22 triggers that I wouldn't deal with a real bad one unless it was a training tool or for safety.

My AR22 has a Geissele... I would totally recommend a SSA-E or a CMC 3.5 for an AR22. For the money, if it is around $125, I love the CMC's.

[alpha_romeo_XV]

Your mil spec single stage is probably about 8 lb. That is too heavy for a target 22.
"Drop in" for AR trigger typically means a pre-assembled cased design that only requires the 2 pins to be inserted ( no springs to orient or force during install) They are available in various trigger pull and 1 Stage or 2 Stage.
A good price and quality option is the Rock River Arms 2 stage with 2 1/2 and 2 1/2 lb pull. It does require you to install all the components. I have a couple with > 5 K rounds. Never cleaned them.

[crufflers]

As far as the installation, standard trigger group vs semi-open case is a non-issue. Maybe the standard group is a little easier to clean, but maybe the drop-in is shielded from some fouling. It isn't a big deal IMHO. You just learn to clean what you have. Installing either type probably take the same time. A CMC you are getting the module placed and still getting pins driven though the receiver holes which need Loctited screws on each side.

For standard group just pay attention to what you are taking OUT before you put in the new parts. It will make sense - if it doesn't, YOUTUBES.

If you have the option to check out a few triggers on guns to decide, do it. You might prefer the feel, break, reset on one over another model. Personally I am not a huge fan of the RRA Match I have, But I am also not a huge fan of the Geissele SSA (SSA-E is really nice)... so many triggers out there. SSA is great if you just want a nicer trigger than MIL SPEC. If you want a great trigger, the SSA-E or CMC is better. Some people like even lighter triggers than those two. IMHO.

Overall... if aiin't no one got time for all that... CMC, cannot go wrong.

[Switchbarrel]

I’ve put the single stage Jard 2# adjustable trigger in a couple
different lowers that have rimfire uppers on them. Personally,
I really like them. Shooting from the bench or offhand, never
had a problem. Nice, crisp pull.

-Rick

[ARFrog]

Thanks for the info and recommendations guys. Looks like I have some studying up and shopping to do...

[Unforgiven]

One word Wilson. The Wilson AR trigger is hands down the best trigger I have used. Geissele is nice, but it’s not a Wilson. Made my dedicated 22 a tack driver.

[RogueSniper]

Drop in Rise Armament with vertical trigger. 3.5# single stage. Some people were getting a heavier trigger pull so YMMV.
I got mine on sale at Brownells. And if it sucks, Brownells will take it back.

[Jimi Jah]

I used a $39 RTB nickel-teflon coated trigger, the $13 3 1/2 lb yellow springs and a $10 Joe Bob's trigger adjuster.

It's smooth, crisp with a very short and easy pull.

[crufflers]

If you want under $100, you have the RRA and the Hiperfire EDT3. I prefer the Hiperfire EDT3 - new trigger shoe, good pull, GREAT reset.

[ARFrog]

If you have the straight/vertical triggers how do they compare to the traditional curved ones?

The Wilson trigger markets that they have a "half cock" that is safer with respect to AD. For those with the CMC 3.5 and Geissele SSA-E, for example, do you have any concerns for non bench conditions?

[crufflers]

If you have the straight/vertical triggers how do they compare to the traditional curved ones?

The Wilson trigger markets that they have a "half cock" that is safer with respect to AD. For those with the CMC 3.5 and Geissele SSA-E, for example, do you have any concerns for non bench conditions?

I like the straight triggers... I have a CMC 3.5 straight, CMC 3.5 Curved, CMC/Lantac straight, and CMC/Lantac curved (kind of in-between). I like the Lantac curved the best because it is still flat and wide and looks the best. The CMC 3.5 curved just looks like a spec trigger shoe.

Those two are not dangerously light IMHO. I have a 10/22 that could be considered dangerously light, especially with new shooters whether they are warned or not. I'd prefer not to have one like that on my AR's.

[DVSride]

I have a Gessisle G2S curved trigger which is a 2 stage 4.5 trigger I was using for highpower competition. I recently switched the upper for a .22lr upper for practice and have ran ove 1,000 plus rounds for CCI SV. No problems with the trigger but do have to clean the rifle more often due to it being more dirty than regular centerfire.

[ar15barrels]

Regardless of what trigger you get, if you have reliability problems after the swap, you may need to adjust the hammer spring tension or the hammer shape.
Blowback guns like a 22AR use the hammer spring as PART OF the operating spring as the hammer is HOLDING the bolt closed while the bullet is travelling down the bore.
If tension is too light, the bolt may open too soon.
If tension is too heavy, the bolt may not open fast enough.
Either can cause function problems so if you put in a new trigger and then suddenly start having reliability issues, look closely at hammer tension or hammer shape to be the problem.

[ARFrog]

Regardless of what trigger you get, if you have reliability problems after the swap, you may need to adjust the hammer spring tension or the hammer shape.
Blowback guns like a 22AR use the hammer spring as PART OF the operating spring as the hammer is HOLDING the bolt closed while the bullet is travelling down the bore.
If tension is too light, the bolt may open too soon.
If tension is too heavy, the bolt may not open fast enough.
Either can cause function problems so if you put in a new trigger and then suddenly start having reliability issues, look closely at hammer tension or hammer shape to be the problem.

Thanks, good to know.

Question though, if one puts in a one piece "drop in trigger" like a Wilson Combat (or others), as mentioned above, where there is no adjustment, what does one do?