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Mine is an amazing shooter, keeps to about a 1" group at 10-12 yds. I can keep a small 12oz gaterade bottle moving with every shot out to 20+ Yds. Gun is still completely stock, never even had it apart. Maybe try to put the factory parts back in it?sigpic"That's more suspicious than a nun doing squats in a cucumber field!" -
Make sure the set screw that holds the barrel in place is snug. Don't over do it or it will strip. Otherwise that barrel will rock a bit when firing. Or make sure it isn't stripped or as mentioned it will rock aroubd on the frame
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Based on your picture where is the 2nd screw ? Or due to the barrel bushing does ZR tactical recommend the removal of the 2nd screw ?Last edited by Creampuff; 05-18-2017, 5:44 AM.Comment
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Was thinking this as well. Also, curious how it performs in the stock configuration (with no aftermarket parts).Make sure the set screw that holds the barrel in place is snug. Don't over do it or it will strip. Otherwise that barrel will rock a bit when firing. Or make sure it isn't stripped or as mentioned it will rock aroubd on the frame
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Based on your picture where is the 2nd screw ? Or due to the barrel bushing does ZR tactical recommend the removal of the 2nd screw ?
If you find that even in the stock configuration, with your set screw snug, you are still experiencing accuracy issues, I would give Sig a call. They have great customer service. I sent in my 1911-22 to them and got back a brand new slide and BCG which completely alleviated my issues. Process took ~4-6 weeks..png)
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I have the CW accessories setup so I can't speak to personal experience with the ZRTS.
I just looked at my CW setup and the barrel lock up with the CW bushing is so tight, that the barrel screw is not necessary.
However based on ZRTS's website, you can remove the barrel screw if you have the ultimate or competition package, because it comes with the alignment cone.
It looks like you need that barrel screw back on unless you have the alignment cone. Because of this your barrel is probably bouncing around and leading to a shotgun patterned group
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I experienced the same accuracy in the stock configuration. I have also tried to make sure the screw is snugged up tight in the stock configuration and it made no noticeable difference. Haven't tried using the screw with the ZRT set up as in the instructions included it says not to use the screw. Now I'm strongly considering having the alignment cone put on. I'm not expecting buckmark or ruger Mark accuracy but I think it should be better than it is.
Also, anybody else have issues with the slide release peening the slide?Comment
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Something is definitely off with the OP's GSG, IMO.
The accuracy of mine was fine in the stock condition but the guide rod just looked and felt flimsy to me. Now I'm using the CW Accessories Guide Rod, Guide Rod Spring, Buffer, Spring Retainer and Barrel Screw Removal Kit in mine. I had their Barrel Bushing installed too but removed it because it was so tight, the slide wouldn't go back into battery after anything after the first shot from a full mag. CWA recommended polishing the barrel but I just went back to the OEM bushing and all was well again, including the pistol's accuracy.Comment
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Go back to stock- check your frame and the barrel screw. If a 1911 isn't shooting accurately it always comes back to the shooter, the sights, or the lockup.
The GSG is supposed to eliminate the lockup with its barrel screw, I know its hokey, I own one too, but it works. The barrel screw removal kits work too- but for all their bluster it is still a part that changes the designed function.Comment
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For the me, the real plus for the barrel screw removal kit is that I can field strip the pistol wherever I am since no tools are needed to do so.
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