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Ruger 10/22 rebuild

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  • boludo12
    Member
    • Apr 2011
    • 451

    Ruger 10/22 rebuild

    I have an old 10/22 that has been neglected for years. The stock was an ugly poop brown, very few dents, and just ugly as sin. The trigger didn't work as the reset spring had been jacked and was unrepairable. Bit of rust on the barrel.

    I finally found the time to buy the parts and things needed to upgrade and beautify this rifle. I decided to keep the original stock, strip it and then finish with boiled linseed oil. Bought a new Ruger trigger assembly to replace the old and scope mounts for a Bugbuster scope.

    I also have never been a fan of the barrel band on the 10/22. I checked with Ruger and was happy to hear that the barrel band is not necessary and that the barrel/receiver joint is strong enough to free float the barrel. You'll see in the picks that the barrel band is gone and the protruding portion of the stock is also.

    All in the cost to revamp was around 75 with 4 hours of work time. My photography skills don't convey just how good the stock and grain look.

    Also, it still needs to be bedded. Without the band the receiver moves in the stock just a bit. For now its shimmed to keep the receiver from moving.







    Last edited by boludo12; 11-16-2016, 9:38 AM. Reason: info update
  • #2
    claylakers
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2012
    • 2807

    Very nice

    Comment

    • #3
      Fatcat
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2006
      • 1299

      Try the "foil-tape" bedding job technique described over on .22RimfireCentral forum. You can experiment with different bedding placements (barrel pressure pad) w/o comitting to a permanent job.

      Comment

      • #4
        Spyder
        CGN Contributor
        • Mar 2008
        • 17022

        Acraglass is easy to use, and bedded mine great!

        Comment

        • #5
          RawHP
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2014
          • 633

          Originally posted by boludo12

          I also have never been a fan of the barrel band on the 10/22. I checked with Ruger and was happy to hear that the barrel band is not necessary and that the barrel/receiver joint is strong enough to free float the barrel.
          While the barrel band is not needed, many/most stock barrels shoot best with upward pressure at the forend tip, located at the section of stock you removed (the forend has a slight raised area). This is why people get good results by varying the torque of the take down screw, which varies the upward pressure. While beddng the action never hurts, free floating may or may not produce improvements in accuracy.

          Since you've already removed that portion of stock, you might first want to use a short piece of rubber inner tube and experiment with other locations to apply upward pressure along the barrel channel, to see if you find a location which produces the best results.

          If you don't see improvements, then you could put the pad, or a pad made with layers of aluminum tape, under the barrel just ahead of the take down screw to provide support for floating the barrel. If you bed the action without a rear anchor of some type, you'll likely be bedding this area anyway, so at least you'll be able to simulate what free floating the barrel might do with respect to accuracy.

          Have fun. The redo looks great!
          Last edited by RawHP; 11-17-2016, 7:44 AM.

          Comment

          • #6
            joe47
            Member
            • Aug 2013
            • 475

            Originally posted by RawHP
            While the barrel band is not needed, many/most stock barrels shoot best with upward pressure at the forend tip, located at the section of stock you removed (the forend has a slight raised area). This is why people get good results by varying the torque of the take down screw, which varies the upward pressure. While beddng the action never hurts, free floating may or may not produce improvements in accuracy.

            Since you've already removed that portion of stock, you might first want to use a short piece of rubber inner tube and experiment with other locations to apply upward pressure along the barrel channel, to see if you find a location which produces the best results.

            If you don't see improvements, then you could put the pad, or a pad made with layers of aluminum tape, under the barrel just ahead of the take down screw to provide support for floating the barrel. If you bed the action without a rear anchor of some type, you'll likely be bedding this area anyway, so at least you'll be able to simulate what free floating the barrel might do with respect to accuracy.

            Have fun. The redo looks great!
            I have found that a pad of sorbothane works better for me than a piece of innertube. It is softer and cushions the barrel better. (It's the stuff Dr Scholls shoe inserts are made of)

            Comment

            • #7
              Canucky
              Veteran Member
              • Dec 2007
              • 4265

              Nice job Op. I have half dozen 1022s and got the itch to start upgrading them. Brimstone trigger job on a few triggers, then maybe a few different barrels. As mentioned it's a rabbit hole.

              Comment

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