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Installing a bipod stud

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  • akjunkie
    CGN/CGSSA Contributor - Lifetime
    CGN Contributor - Lifetime
    • Jan 2005
    • 3494

    Installing a bipod stud

    Recently acquired this Fajen Legacy adjustable stock.

    Didnt realize it did not have a bipod stud for my Harris bipod.

    What's the easiest way to install a stud on this stock?

    I found this pic online. Not sure if the stock came with a stud from Fajen or the owner installed it himself.

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    Here's a stock photo from MidwayUsa.. No stud.

    Last edited by akjunkie; 03-15-2016, 4:12 PM.
  • #2
    ditchdigger
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2010
    • 976

    Drill a hole in the stock that is narrower than the threads on the stud. This will prevent the stock from splitting when you install the stud.

    Mark the bit to the depth of the stud threads. You don't want to drill through the stock.

    Comment

    • #3
      SkyHawk
      I need a LIFE!!
      • Sep 2012
      • 23525

      Depending on how thick the material is just above where you want the stud, use a self tapping wood stud after drilling a smaller pilot hole, or a machine screw stud with a nut after drilling a clearance hole. In either case you may have to trim the shank to the proper length.
      Last edited by SkyHawk; 03-13-2016, 6:21 PM.
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      • #4
        akjunkie
        CGN/CGSSA Contributor - Lifetime
        CGN Contributor - Lifetime
        • Jan 2005
        • 3494

        Finally had a chance to take pics of the inside of the stock.

        There are "ribs" on the inside of the stock.

        a) How would you guys mount a stud in this scenario.

        I'm thinking I would grind down the rib to the "floor" and used stud #2.

        b) Which bipod stud do you recommend?

        Stud #1



        Stud #2



        Stud #3

        Last edited by akjunkie; 06-15-2022, 8:51 PM.

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        • #5
          RawHP
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2014
          • 633

          If it were me, I'd go this route:

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          After drilling for the insert, I'd use JB Weld to epoxy it in, and fill in around the insert for the part the extends into the webbing for more strength.

          Comment

          • #6
            sonofeugene
            Veteran Member
            • Oct 2013
            • 4513

            See this thread for some ideas:



            You probably don't have a quick release, but using the T nuts as I did may be something you'd want to try. 'Makes the mount very secure. Pay particular attention to my reduction of the size of the darts on the inserts so that any chance of splitting the wood is reduced.

            Good luck!
            Let us not pray to be sheltered from dangers but to be fearless when facing them. - Rabindranath Tagore

            A mind all logic is like a knife all blade. It makes the hand bleed that uses it. - Rabindranath Tagore

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            • #7
              SkyHawk
              I need a LIFE!!
              • Sep 2012
              • 23525

              I would consider using one of those inserts that RawHP linked to, and putting it right in this intersection of the ribs. You might want to use some calipers and see what the diameter of this plastic intersection is though. Brownells says the inserts are 5/16" diameter and 1/2" long.


              If it looks like you have enough material to support the insert, drill *straight* down from the top through the center of this joint with a very tiny bit just so you can index the center on the bottom of the stock. Then drill from the bottom for the insert, only to the depth you need. I would also make sure the hole is UNDERSIZED so you can tap the insert in tightly, and I would also use JBWeld marine epoxy or plastic epoxy in the hole before I tapped it in.

              Be sure you keep something like a small bolt threaded into the insert so you don't get epoxy running back into your threads. You might also just apply some vaseline or light oil to a bolt, run it in and out of your threads before you tap it in - the vaseline/oil will keep the epoxy from sticking to the threads. Then after you tap the insert in, run the bolt back in and let it cure with the stock resting on its back so the epoxy doesn't run down into your threads. Just don't get vaseline/oil on the outside of the insert.

              Then clean up and dry the threads and use Blue loctite to install the swivel stud into the insert.







              If you don't have enough material in that joint to support an insert, then maybe your idea of grinding away a rib and using stud is viable - #2 or #3 depending on the contour of the stock inside when you are done. But I wouldn't grind away a rib if I didn't have to.
              Last edited by SkyHawk; 03-17-2016, 12:31 PM.
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              • #8
                SB1964
                Veteran Member
                • Mar 2012
                • 4876

                I would drill it as Sky suggested. From the inside with a small pilot drill. Most Brownells kits tell you what size pilot etc & they're cheap. I've done several stocks & each one presents a challenge. The more stuff I've tried to use, glue (epoxy) & hardware, the tougher the job becomes, that's where it gets tricky. Composites & glass stocks are more difficult. I'd look on Rimfirecentral for more info as well, plenty of guys that make their own stocks over there.

                Whatever you do, make sure you do it when you're relaxed & not thinking about other stuff. You get one chance for a straight, durable mount. Don't ask me how I know.

                Post up when you're done! Good luck.
                Yes I took the pic, no I didn't go swimming!

                Comment

                • #9
                  akjunkie
                  CGN/CGSSA Contributor - Lifetime
                  CGN Contributor - Lifetime
                  • Jan 2005
                  • 3494

                  Thanks everyone for your helpful tips. I'll break out the calipers this weekend and do some measuring.

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