HELP! I Stripped a receiver hole in my 10/22!

[yokron]

Hi Everyone,

I over tightened one of the rail screws in the receiver of my Ruger 10/22.

I'm going to buy a scope base from Rimfire Technologies that requires the larger 8-32 screws to fix this problem. This one:

http://www.amazon.com/Ruger-Picatinny-Scope-Black-Matte/dp/B00HMCPG80/ref=sr_1_38?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1435122954&sr=1-38&keywords=ruger+rail

Just wanted to reach out to the Calguns community to ask if anyone with a drill and tap set (and who is competent) can re-size the existing factory receiver holes? I don't even know how to change a spare tire . I'll go to you of course and can pay in cash, ammo, bring you food, anything reasonable. Thanks ya'll! Im in the LA area but can drive a ways.

[RawHP]

Hi Everyone,

I over tightened one of the rail screws in the receiver of my Ruger 10/22.

I'm going to buy a scope base from Rimfire Technologies that requires the larger 8-32 screws to fix this problem. This one:

http://www.amazon.com/Ruger-Picatinny-Scope-Black-Matte/dp/B00HMCPG80/ref=sr_1_38?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1435122954&sr=1-38&keywords=ruger+rail

Just wanted to reach out to the Calguns community to ask if anyone with a drill and tap set (and who is competent) can re-size the existing factory receiver holes? I don't even know how to change a spare tire . I can pay in cash, ammo, bring you food, anything reasonable. Thanks ya'll!

Well in case you decide to tackle it yourself, the hardest part about drilling and tapping for a scope mount is lining up the holes perfectly. But, since you're just enlarging what's there, the new drill will automatically center to the existing holes, so as long as you're drilling close to straight down, that should be easy. For tapping, you need to make sure you're exactly perpendicular when you start the tap, and after that you just need to go really slow, 1/4 turn or less at a time, backing out, then in another 1/4, and back out, and using a fair amount of oil. It gets a little nerve-racking when you hear the tap squeak when you get a few threads in, hoping it doesn't snap off, but if you go slow and make sure there's enough oil, you have a good chance of success.

IF you decide to go for it, practice on a piece of steel or aluminum first. You'll know after that if you want to attempt the real thing. A drill and tap set goes for about $5 at Home Depot, and a tap wrench is maybe another $7.

A gunsmith will charge about $40-$60 to do the job from scratch, but I'm guessing it should be less if just tapping existing holes. Some charge by the hole, so you should shop around.

EDIT: I've never tapped aluminum, but doing my stainless 22/45 wasn't too bad. I'm guess the chances of breaking a tap with the 10/22 is a lot lower since aluminum is softer.

[Occams Rasor]

If you still have 3 good ones, just go with three and it will be good enough.
Use blue lock tight on them. I forget what size the std threads are but sometimes you can find a metric screw that is just a little bit bigger. Use that on the forth (stripped hole).

[RawHP]

If you still have 3 good ones, just go with three and it will be good enough.
Use blue lock tight on them. I forget what size the std threads are but sometimes you can find a metric screw that is just a little bit bigger. Use that on the forth (stripped hole).

This is a great idea! If you still want to drill and tap, you can just do it on the bad hole, and get a 50 cent pan-head screw at Home Depot. Is there some reason you need an extended rail, or this the existing one good?

The 10/22 receiver can only handle 12 inch-pounds of torque. I use blue loctite and 10 inch-pounds and never had anything come loose. 10 inch-pounds is barely tighter than snug.

[kendog4570]

Install a BST77653AJ Receiver Insert for a Browning Acera and problem solved

[bigcalidave]

Just have a gunsmith do it if you feel you aren't up to the job. Why ruin something trying it yourself when it would cost hardly anything to have it done right.

[RawHP]

Just have a gunsmith do it if you feel you aren't up to the job. Why ruin something trying it yourself when it would cost hardly anything to have it done right.

Hardly anything is relative. Before I drilled and tapped my 22/45 (3 holes), I got quotes from 2 local smiths. One said $20/hole, the other said $75. I spent the money on a drill press off of Craigslist and a tap.

Add in the price of the new scope rail ($43), and it might make sense to buy a new receiver for $75:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=1081072&highlight=10%2F22

Then practice, worry free, on the old one.

['ol shooter]

I have tapped many a 10-22 hole, and would gladly do it free, but it's a long drive. I'm hopeful someone closer will just step up and offer.

[trailtundra]

If you want a gunsmith in LA to do it right, here's a good solution with tons of feedback from Calguns users including me.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=266174

http://22barrels.com/

"Drill/Tap Receiver $40
This service is to drill and tap the receiver for sight or scope base that attaches with screws. The most common threads used for sights or scope bases are 6-48. I can accomodate most other commonly found thread sizes as well. The receiver will be setup in the milling machine and the holes will be located on the centerline of the receiver. The screws will be installed using blue loctite. You must include the sight or base and screws with your receiver to use this option."

[fatfreadiescat]

Install a BST77653AJ Receiver Insert for a Browning Acera and problem solved

I like this idea.

[kendog4570]

The mount you are using is requiring 8-32 screws?? IMO that is the wrong thread pitch for the relatively thin cross section of the 10/22, not to mention the material is soft as hell. If you have to use 8's, go to 8-40 screws and they will be stronger in that application. The original 6-48 would be stronger yet in THAT situation.
Rugers are so soft you can simply run the 8-40 tap through the existing hole and it will clean up just fine. If you want to be real anal, run a 9/64th drill bit by hand first, but it is not necessary. The best solution for butter-soft receivers like these is to install the steel inserts from Browning like I posted above.
All this work takes some skill and competence with hand and machine tools. If you are not that guy, just take it to someone that is.

[RawHP]

The mount you are using is requiring 8-32 screws?? IMO that is the wrong thread pitch for the relatively thin cross section of the 10/22, not to mention the material is soft as hell. If you have to use 8's, go to 8-40 screws and they will be stronger in that application. The original 6-48 would be stronger yet in THAT situation.
Rugers are so soft you can simply run the 8-40 tap through the existing hole and it will clean up just fine. If you want to be real anal, run a 9/64th drill bit by hand first, but it is not necessary. The best solution for butter-soft receivers like these is to install the steel inserts from Browning like I posted above.
All this work takes some skill and competence with hand and machine tools. If you are not that guy, just take it to someone that is.

I looked at that mount when I was looking for an extended rail and came to the exact same conclusion. I suspect they used 8-32 because you can go to the big box stores and find that size tap, where with 8-40 you need to order from a place like Brownell's.

[Dan_Eastvale]

On the 10/22, aren't the screw designed softer that the aluminum receiver so that they will strip before the receiver threads? Maybe just the included Ruger mount.