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10-22 trigger
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Anchors Aweigh
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While the Kidd and Timney drop-in have great trigger pulls, the hammer only and hammer and sear kits will get you 80%+ of the high-dollar options.
VQ, Kidd or Power Custom parts all work well.
Originally posted by Citadelgrad87I don't really care, I just like to argue.Comment
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Imho,
If you have the cash, go top of the line. Drop that 200-300 and be done with it.
Or... i just sent my trigger. Same as Brimstone, guy out of new york. Long story short, i now have this sweet 2 pound match trigger with zero creep. It was cheap, fast (about two weeks from sending trigger from west coast) and the best 40 bucks. The trigger is fine for me and the stock 10/22. I dont wear designer clothes, and dont want to have designer guns.
Your decision. No matter what anything is better than that stock gritty trigger. Just me.Never enough reloading stuff
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I think for $27, go for it. It will be noticeably better than stock if you just replace the hammer. I believe the kit achieves a lighter trigger pull in three ways. 1) The hammer notch is cut at a reduced angle compared to stock, 2) the reduced trigger spring lightens the pull, 3) the reduced hammer spring lowers the sear to hammer engagement pressure.I was wondering what the preferred way to clean up the trigger in a 10-22 is and not a full Kidd trigger group expensive?
I'm thinking this kit would work well
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/163...gs-ruger-10-22
#1 is fine. #2 may bring out some the flaws in your trigger group, namely if the mating surfaces are not smooth enough, there's a chance that the spring will be too light to reset the trigger. #3 may add problems with light strikes (FTF) relative to the stock spring. i put in a extra power hammer spring, which, all things being equal, results in fewer FTF than the stock spring.
I'd go with #1, and try #2 and see if you have problems with the trigger resetting. If not, keep it. If it doesn't, you can clean up and polish some of the internal mating surfaces and probably get it to work.
The one problem with a lighter trigger is that it will reveal or highlight perceived creep. From your trigger finger's point of view, a stiffer pull causes your finger to concentrate on pulling hard enough for the trigger to break. When the pull is light, you feel any grittiness or fluctuation as the sear moves across the hammer notch. If you're up to it, you could take a hard stone and carefully hone the sear edge to smooth it out; but try not to change the angle. That will get rid of the grit, so even if there's creep, you can control the pull and have a smooth break.Comment
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Poor man's trigger job ~
Radiusing and polishing the bolt helps too:
Que is a good guy. He'll make your bolt work more better: https://sites.google.com/site/quesplace/Last edited by Gem1950; 05-13-2015, 10:42 AM.Comment
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Gem1950,
Thanks for that second link!! One of the top posts had a fix for a Butler Creek mag, which gives me some clues to diagnose on of my Ruger rotary mags. Probably isn't the exact problem, but an area of the mag to look for problems on. I bought 3 new mags and two work flawlessly and the third has a lot of failures to feed, which is frustrating. Mag fixes are few and far between on the web.
In case anyone is interested, I found a mag fix for MK II and MK III pistols that fixed all of my feeding issues, and it wasn't at all intuitive until the post explained what it did. I tried it on one mag and it worked on the most problematic ammo in my most finicky MK II target model. Worked so well that I modded my dozen or so other mags.Comment
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