Bubble levelers?

[Mac7504]

Please forgive the ignorance before hand.

So I'm use to holographic red dot but such and just order my first real (cheap) scope (Primary 4x14 Arms Mil/Mil) for a Stag 3g upper build I have going.

I have really small scopes on some Savage.22's but this is the first that will be fitted to something bigger. I've never really have to worry about leveling or cant with those due to shooting distance with those so this is new to me..

Just ordered a Primary Arms 4x14 to acclimated with scopes before getting really nice glass for a Remington 5R project I want to get going, but I'm confused on mounting and cant and bubble levelers....Are they worth it? I don't mind spending a few bucks but I'll only be shooting 200-300 yds with this setup.

I'm also confused on mounting of the, it looks like, at least with the Viper 30mm unit, that it could be easily askew?

Any knowledgeable input would be appreciated.

[MeatyMac]

I use one of these, works like a charm. Brownells has them http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod56125.aspx



I suppose the bubble leveling system by Wheeler is a good tool if your scope has a flat, level surface that corresponds to the reticle, but not every scope has that, my US Optics SN-3 TPAL does not have a level top turret.

I use ring alignment rods every time I mount a scope, especially when using 2-piece ring bases, this is the one I use from Brownells http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...s-prod990.aspx , it's overkill if you're just mounting one scope, but it's what's need to do a perfect job.

Last note, I Loctite base screws only with removable Loctite, I do not Loctite scope ring screws.

Have fun!

[sofbak]

For a bolt gun, you really don't need a level to align the scope.

Remove the bolt, and set the gun on bags or a stand. From a foot or so behind, look through the scope so you can also seen the bore. Align the vertical "cross hair" of the reticle to line up with the center of the bore.

Done....

[Iloveguns]

If you plan on only shooting at 200-300 yds a bubble level is not really needed. But if you start shooting past that your cant will start to effect your impacts. Really start noticing it at around 600yds.

[MeatyMac]

"Bubble Leveler" = Bubble Level

Missed that...

[sdkevin]

Use a simple small carpenter level. Check the level of the surface your working on, match that bubble off the top turret knob.

I'm not familiar with the Viper, if it's a two piece, make sure they are aligned. Plenty of utubes on this. If your rings are tight all the way down to the rifle and the alignment is off -- it's time for a honing.

[REDdawn6]

I have the level,level, level. Water leveling has been around fro thousands of years. Has levels for rifle and scope.

[sunborder]

For a bolt gun, you really don't need a level to align the scope.

Remove the bolt, and set the gun on bags or a stand. From a foot or so behind, look through the scope so you can also seen the bore. Align the vertical "cross hair" of the reticle to line up with the center of the bore.

Done....

You can do the same with an ar upper if you take it off the lower, depending on optic height

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

[sunborder]

Bubble level is overkill for 300 yards.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

[Jeepergeo]

The Wheeler Scope installation kit is a good way to go. It will provide you everything you need in most cases. My only issue with Wheeler's Level Level Level bubble is that it is magnetic and that does not work with aluminum receivers. I do like the alignment rods and lapping tools that come in the kit, and the torque wrench is handy to avoid stripping screws.

[Mac7504]

I use one of these, works like a charm. Brownells has them http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod56125.aspx



I suppose the bubble leveling system by Wheeler is a good tool if your scope has a flat, level surface that corresponds to the reticle, but not every scope has that, my US Optics SN-3 TPAL does not have a level top turret.

I use ring alignment rods every time I mount a scope, especially when using 2-piece ring bases, this is the one I use from Brownells http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...s-prod990.aspx , it's overkill if you're just mounting one scope, but it's what's need to do a perfect job.

Last note, I Loctite base screws only with removable Loctite, I do not Loctite scope ring screws.

Have fun!

Thank you for all the great input, I will read up on that one.

For a bolt gun, you really don't need a level to align the scope.

Remove the bolt, and set the gun on bags or a stand. From a foot or so behind, look through the scope so you can also seen the bore. Align the vertical "cross hair" of the reticle to line up with the center of the bore.

Done....

Good to know. This would be used on a ar setup 3g upper, but I'm trying to get the knowledge before I move to a bolt gun setup.

If you plan on only shooting at 200-300 yds a bubble level is not really needed. But if you start shooting past that your cant will start to effect your impacts. Really start noticing it at around 600yds.

Thanks for this! I'll skip it for this setup or till I start reaching out further than what I currently shooting.

"Bubble Leveler" = Bubble Level

Missed that...

I really should know better than to post after my bed time and after I've and one or two, or 3..

Use a simple small carpenter level. Check the level of the surface your working on, match that bubble off the top turret knob.

I'm not familiar with the Viper, if it's a two piece, make sure they are aligned. Plenty of utubes on this. If your rings are tight all the way down to the rifle and the alignment is off -- it's time for a honing.

I guess I have some reading to do on mounting. I got a American Defense recon mount so it shouldn't be too bad, but I still have some homework to do as this is my first scope.

Yes, the Viper is a 2 piece and also round so I feel it could be very easily mounted incorrectly.

You can do the same with an ar upper if you take it off the lower, depending on optic height

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

Hmm, interesting....

Bubble level is overkill for 300 yards.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

Thanks for everyone's input! I'll say my money for now.

[Mac7504]

OK, I think I'm sold on the Seway reticle lever; seems like the fastest, easiest way to get it lined up. Just trying to decide between the tactical or MKIII. The tac has the lil plastic thing for the picatinny rail but I'm not keen on the green lines (Is it necessary?).

Also, I guess when I initially posted I was talking about an item that prevents canting while shooting but this is actually a more useful tool.

[wentbig]

bubble or not

2.jpg

Bubble level is overkill for 300 yards.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

i bench shoot at 50 yards using Anshutz 54 and Copper .22lr
My retical must be level for this type of precision.
We are pissed if our rifle will not shoot under .020, twenty thousands of one inch.

[LCU1670]

Don't forget, on a wall-door (paper) you can make horizontal and vertical lines with a carpenters level, the bore site and scope level off that.

[ExtremeX]

I used to use bubble levels, until I realized not every scope turret is level... I can 1/2 turn a turret on some scopes and change the result. I stopped using all the stupid crap people market to level scopes.

I found its much easier, cheaper, and more accurate to shim the scope level to the base. If you have 1 piece base and some spark plug feeler gauges you can just level the bottom of the optic to the base... Similar principal to the shim system SPUHR uses on their mounts.

This also assumes the manufacture did a good job leveling the reticle to the housing... I know it can be a problem with cheaper optics at times, but I haven't run into canted reticle issues myself.

Works 100% of the time, 99% of the time.