zeroing 3-9 scope ( never zeroed a scope before)

[MUKAK]

need help zeroing my new Weaver Tactical 3-9x40 FFP scope with target turrets, have a few questions..

what dist should i zero it? 100 yards?

when zeroing do i zero at the max magnification ( 9x )??

the scope has a 1/8 moa adjustment with hash marks under turrets with #s 0 thru 8 do i zero at the 0 hash mark?

thanks

[postal]

What rifle/cartridge?

Larger more powerful cartridges are usually zeroed at 100, but an AR is usually 50, and a 22lr can be 25 or 50 or 100.

The easiest way to get it dialed in, is for a bolt action or an AR where you can remove the bolt or the entire upper.... look through the barrel and point it at an object while it's braced or supported and doesnt move, and dial the scope to the same object. This will get you on paper- and not require a "bore sight". (bore sighting isnt necessary anyway, but start at 25 yds to be sure you hit the target- even if you cant look down the barrel and make initial adjustments)

Then... start at 25 yds with a target. Carefully aim and shoot 1 shot at the target. Brace the rifle aimed at the bullseye, and dial the scope so it points to the hole you just made- WITHOUT moving the rifle....

Then set your target at 50 or 100 (whichever range you want your zero) and shoot/adjust/verify that it's correct. Normally, moving from 25yd target to 100.... will require an adjustment- the bullet will hit high at 100.

Once you have it dialed in perfectly for the distance you want your zero, you REMOVE THE SCOPE KNOBS, and place them back on with the 0# centered on the line. WITHOUT accidentally clicking the scope when you do it.

[postal]

Also, the magnification doesnt matter. Whatever mag you're comfortable with, however, the higher the magnification, the more accurate you can be...

When you start at 25yd- 3-5 power is enough- They have a hard time focusing that close, and higher power gets really blurry....

At 50 4-6 power.

At 100- crank it as high as you want. The higher the better though. But whatever looks good to you.

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At a public range with other scoped rifle users, ask for some help if you need to. You never know.... a lot of people have scopes that dont know how to use them... once in a while, you run accross someone that really knows what they're doing, and it's a piece of cake...

[MUKAK]

its going on a ar15 shooting 55gr whatever i have in my ammo can

i get the basics of zeroing, i already barrel sighted it on a ar15 by taking upper/lower apart and looking thru it

ok u explained the magnification at zeroing part but what about hash marks under the turrets? let say i zero at 100 yards which has mark should the turrets be at? i get that hash marks are reference point for u to keep track of revolutions of the turret.

and also my scope has zero stop turrets

[postal]

I'm not familiar with that scope. You need to read the instructions.

But the basics of it... is once you have it hitting on target at your point of aim, the turrets are removed, and put back on carefully, without changing clicks... so the number '0' on the turret is lined up with the mark on the scope body.

Then you need to follow the instructions on how to set up the zero stop.

To be sure we're talking about the same thing... the elevation knob- on TOP... should have a vertical line on it. Thats the line you want 0 on when it's dialed in.

Horizontal lines are to be ignored.

It ends up- wherever it ends up.... Depends on your mount/rifle-

Once you do that.... set the zero stop, and take a sharpie and black out any visible horizontal hash marks except the one closest to the knob.

This way, no matter how much you dial, you can find your true 100yd zero when you run out of lines-OR using the zero stop. You should see 1 single horizontal hash mark, and know it's in the right position.

When you dial beyond one full turn, a 2nd hash mark will appear, so you know you're at 2 revolutions. If you see 3 hash marks, you know you're on your third turn....

And as always.... RTFM

[postal]

I just installed a new bushnell G2DMR on my rifle and got it zeroed.

I forgot. I think I had 3 horizontal lines showing when zero at 100. Sharpie on the lower 2 lines, leaving only the one highest line visible.

So, no matter how much I dial the scope, I know where the knob is supposed to be to get back at 100. I did not bother doing this for windage, because I dont dial wind- I hold wind. But the same can be done on windage if you want.

My scope does not have a zero stop though I can fabricate a shim that would work as one. I havent bothered.

As to how many lines show when you zero... who knows.... it ends up wherever it ends up- 0 moa base, 10 moa or 20 moa will obviously all point differently... and the true of the reciever/mount/rail/etc all come into play.... so... as I said... it ends up, wherever it ends up.... and black out the extra lines, just leave 1.

[JagerDog]

The one-shot-zero does great if you have a very rigid rifle res/mount. A lot of the time that's lacking. If it is, shoot a round at 25-50 yds. The move the adjustments the number of minutes in the proper direction to adjust POI to POA. Fire another round and see if things are going according to plan. Once you're pretty close, step the yardage out to your preferred range. You can then shoot groups and tune your group center. Remember that 1 minute is 1" at 100 yards (pretty darn close). So...1 minute is only 1/2" at 50 yards, etc.

I'm guessing since you have a zero stop, you also have resettable turrets. Once you're satisfied with you sighting in, reset the zero on the turret accordingly. Some you pull up on the knob to disengage the knob from the adjustment screws. You can set up your zero stop so you can't go a complete revolution low. You can be more precise, but it buys you little.