So I went to the woodland sportsman association range today to try out my redfield scope with my ar and i was pretty satisfied with the results. I will have pics up soon but my question lies on where should my scope be located. There are times i have a hard time looking through the scope with a clear FOV.where do u position your scope? All the way to the back? Or towards the middle? Also do you lock tite the screws on the mount because sometimes i see my scope getting lose and i find myself tightening it every reload.
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You want the stock and scope set so you don't see any black around the sight picture while looking thru it. Alot of people do put loctite on the screws holding the scope rings together. If you can alot of people also put the BUIS closest to the charging handle as you can get it and the scope over them at the rear."Men sleep peacefully in their beds at night because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf."
George Orwell
http://www.AnySoldier.com -
You want scope located so you are in sweet spot for eye relief. This sweet spot is found by pushing scope back and forth to find points where FOV through scope starts to occlude, then find center of this range where FOV pop's open wide and clear. This is distance from eyeball to scope. Then determine your cheek weld location on the AR. I like it so my nose is near the charging handle just like you would shoot an AR with standard A2 type carry handle iron sights. Once you have your best cheek weld position located, mount scope so it is located to provide your eye the FOV sweet spot you found earlier.
When you locate cheek weld according to iron sighted AR and locate all scopes to accommodate this, you are then developing a technique that will remain constant no matter what type of sight system you shoot. You should never set it up so you have to develop a different cheek weld for each AR you have. KISS method.
It is also a very good idea to locate scope height via ring height choice so center of scope is at same height as standard iron sights would be. This eliminates "prairie dogging" to use an optic. Again, base everything on standard iron sights and you will never be out of place when you have to shoot different systems.Last edited by GeoffLinder; 03-17-2013, 1:28 PM.Comment
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I believe most scopes will recommend 2-3 inches OR until you have a full sigh picture. If you go to have you scope mounted play around with the relief, draw it repeatedly until you have a comfortable average (continuously comes up perfect with out major adjustments to your body).Comment
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every reload? wow. you must have crappy rings. you can also try using thread lock. I use car gasket sealant...it's kinda rubbery, which helps lock (kinda) and absorb recoil.
My Revenge arrived today. the amazing clarity and the built in range finder and bullet drop compensator. A++++ I love it. I only wished it was assembled in the USA like the Revolution model... i wouldn't mind paying $50 more or so.Comment
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Use one of these:

I know a guy selling one on CGN
Hornady LnL, Dillon Precision, RCBS, Lee Precision and Lyman User
If You want Match or Leadless hunting Ammo check out Monolithic Munitions Yes I am a shill, friends with the owners.
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The Redfield site states that the eye relief for those scopes is 3.5".
There are a couple of ways to find your ideal set-up. One way is to mount the scope so that the eyepiece is even with the rear of your receiver, then adjust your stock to where you can comfortably achieve the proper distance from eye to scope without having to crane your neck too much.
If you do not have an adjustable stock, just move the scope fore and aft on the receiver until you find the proper distance.
Mount your scope rings or one piece mount on the receiver. Set your scope in its mount and leave the screws loose enough to where you can move the scope back and forth and rotate it without scratching it. Ideally, you will want to use a gun vise or a bipod to do this, but you can always use the arm of your couch as well. Once you find your ideal location, level your scope then finish tightening the screws.
Hope that makes sense. If not, then I'm sure someone will be able to explain it better than me or refer you to a Youtube video!sigpicComment
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