AR Scope Mount to Clear Front Sight Post?

[Paulie]

Hey guys, I've been having some problems finding the right scope mount for my AR and I was wondering if anybody could offer a solution. I've got a Redfield 3-9x40 and I would like to stay away from scope rings.

All I'm looking for is a mount that sits a little higher, so its about even with the front sight post. I've had luck with THIS PRODUCT being just the right height, however it mounted up like crap and I sent it back.

I'm thinking about giving THIS ONE a try I just don't want it to place the scope low again and there isn't much about the specs on this cheapy.

Thought I'd check in here with you guys since I'm new. Thanks for any help

[Paulie]

Here are a few pictures, and I believe I caught the slight distortion made by the front sight post in the picture with the tree.

[maxicon]

Yeah, the fsp shouldn't show as more than a blur at 3x, and not at all at 9x.

You want your scope centerline at or a little above the iron sight centerline, which is 1.4" above the rail. This allows the same shoulder mount and cheek weld with both, which is important for training.

[Paulie]

Yeah, the fsp shouldn't show as more than a blur at 3x, and not at all at 9x.

You want your scope centerline at or a little above the iron sight centerline, which is 1.4" above the rail. This allows the same shoulder mount and cheek weld with both, which is important for training.

Right now the center is at about an inch and a quarter, I just need that extra little bit of clearance. Can anybody recommend a mount under 100 bucks that will clear the FSP?

I appreciate the information maxicon that was extremely helpful.

[Spdjunkie]

If you need a higher mount for a better sight picture I would change it. But, if the only reason is to have the scope higher/above the fsp, I'd leave it. As stated above it will have minimal effect on your sight picture at higher magnification.

I would rather spend the $$$ on a flip down front sight gas block then a higher mount.

[Paulie]

It is for sight picture. I was thinking about doing a gas block but its more then I would like to get into right now. I've got another mount coming in the mail so if that doesn't work out I'll have to go the gas block route or leave it plain jane how I like it and experiment with a scope some other time, or on another rifle.

You guys have been really helpful

[mdimeo]

If you are otherwise happy with the mount, you can get a decent riser for 20 bucks to bring it up higher.

I recently realized just how much the point of impact changes at 100 yards with a 25 yard zero, and I'm inclined to do anything possible to lower my scope rather than raise it

[maxicon]

So, this highlights one of the basic design flaws of the AR.

The stock has no drop, unlike a traditional rifle, due to the buffer tube. This means that the sight axis has to be well above the bore to avoid having to scrunch your head way down on the stock. You really can’t get a usable sight picture with the optics close to the bore - there’s just no way around it.

First off, you want to use a 50 yard zero for general purpose. Search on it - there are many discussions, with lots of graphs. Once you get experienced with AR trajectories and sighting mechanics, you can choose according to your preference, but start with a 50 yard zero.

1.25 inches is a bit low for an AR, but usable for some people. It’s funny how much difference a quarter-inch in either direction makes. Best bet for starters is to stick with the basic design of 1.4-1.6 inch centerline. Again, as you get more experienced with AR sighting, you can make other choices.

1.4 inch gives absolute co-witness with the iron sights, which doesn’t matter with a magnified scope, only with a non-magnified optic. 1.6 inch gives a lower third co-witness.

The other important factor in a magnified scope mount is the amount of forward offset. Mounting a scope right above the receiver on rings generally brings the eyepiece too far back for most people, though everyone is different. Generally, you want a mount with a fair bit of forward offset.

A great starting point for the casual shooter is the Burris PEPR mount, which has both the right amount of rise and a decent amount of forward offset, and isn’t too expensive. Any similar mount will do, but the forward offset is important. There are lots of Chinese clones (the Burris is Chinese as well), but quality control varies a lot in the no-name versions, and Burris has good support.

If money’s not an issue, the ADM and LaRue mounts are better, for a lot more money, and they have good resale value if you change your mind. They also come in extended versions if you need even more forward offset.

Once you’ve tried that setup, you’ll have a lot better idea what to do next and what you need. I need more forward offset than many people, and the Burris is barely far enough out for me, but it’s a good, solid, reliable mount.

Edited to get rid of asterisks - iPhone weirdness...

Also wanted to add that risers in 1/4" are not common. This is what you'd need to get a 1.25" mount up to 1.5"-ish. Most risers start at about 1/2", which would be getting you in the area where you lose your cheek weld, but it works for some people.

[Paulie]

Maxicon, that is some really good input thanks a bunch! I ended up getting my new mount and after sighting it in @ 100 I went out to my little shooting spot and could hit anything I wanted. @ 100 yards I was hitting small rocks, small steel plinkers, a WD-40 lid, ect.. I did find that I had to aim sliiiightley low though, so I may go back to the range and re-zero it @ 50 yards and see how it is from there.


Here is the new mount, putting it just high enough and there is no distortion form the front sight post like the old mount placed the scope. It looks a little weird but I can live with it. Maybe later I'll get a fold down front sight on a gas block and use the old mount in the future.



And after some major adjustments, take a peak at my 7th 3 shot group