G2 Vs G2 Led

[mikemaccham]

Does anyone know the differences between the G2 and G2 Led, other than the heat displacement? Will one work better mounted with a offset mount?

I found a G2 Led for $65, and a Vltor Scout Off Set mount for $50 (total $90)
but I also found a deal
SureFire G2-LED Dropin (200 lumens)-Tailcap Switch-Vltor Scout Off Set Mount for $134

[CoyoteHunter555]

No but you get what you pay for

[mikemaccham]

No but you get what you pay for

Neither one is really cheap or used, so what do you mean?

[C_1]

Well, Im not sure about the details, but a LED is suppose to be better than a regular bulb. I know that doesnt help much but a quick google search should get you some answers.

Dont know what you need 200 lumens for but I guess everybody needs to have at least one flashlight that bright. I have a G2 LED and Im happy with mine. It aint no spot light but its a good light and its about the right size. Great for room clearing

[Gryff]

The LED lasts a LOT longer. The incandescent is brighter but lasts a fraction of the time.

Personally, I find LED fine for home defense, since I'm not trying to illuminate things 20-30 yards away. If I was LE or military, and battery costs wasn't a factory, then I would want incandescent.

[Omega13device]

The standard G2 has an incandescent bulb. It's cheaper but the LED is much more robust and has much more batter life. I'd go with the LED. The regular LED is PLENTY bright without shelling out for a 200 lumen head.

[Wherryj]

An LED is less sensitive to recoil shock, so I'd definitely recommend an LED for a 12 ga shotgun, etc.

Otherwise more of the power is converted to light instead of heat, so you'll either get higher output or longer run time. Sometimes you'll get both with an LED.

LEDs tend to last in the tens of thousands of hours per bulb, even when over driven (as is common in high power LEDs), so in the long run you might save money over Surefire incandescent bulbs. It depends upon how often you'll use it, however, but if you think that you'll be changing bulbs Surefire is anything but cheap.

That being said, 200 lumens is nice for a weaponlight. I picked up a Surefire 623LMG shotgun forend. 200 lumens is not only enough to determine one's target, but also is enough output to blind the target without doing the same to oneself.

[CoyoteHunter555]

the more expensive one is better. Not always true of course, but in this case it is- Get the surefire

[mikemaccham]

Thanks guys!
lol DAMIT! I ended up buying the LED for the heat disipation and longer lasting capabilities, which is cool since I can have it for the glock, 12 gauge or my rifle.
The only crapy thing is that I bought it for a 7.62 for night shooting, so maybe with the original purpose I set out for the older one with the 200 lumen drop in would have been better.
Either way I'm stoked, and I figure if nothing else its good for the house and like you said clearing rooms.
I'll let you know how it works out on the street at night.

[mikemaccham]

Is there a good brand drop in for higher lumens on the LED version? So I can have the best of both worlds?

[PCC]

The problem with a G2 is that it is Nitrolon and Nitrolon does not absorb the heat from the LED. The LED module will heat up because not all of the energy going into the LED generates photons. Some of the energy turns into heat. With an aluminum Surefire 6P the body of the flashlight is part of the heatsinking mass and this protects the LED from going thermal. The G2, even with an aluminum bezel, will not be able to dissipate the heat quickly enough and extended run times of more than 10 minutes or so are not recommended. Having said that, something with a Cree XP-G emitter being fed 700mA would not be too bad and will give you a little bit more than 200 lumens. The problem is that no one makes anything with a 700mA driver anymore unless you go custom. My personal G2 has an XP-G driven at 700mA but I had to assemble it myself from individual components.

[Texas Boy]

Go to lighthound.com and check out the "SolarForce" lights. The "L2 host" (no lamp module or batteries) is ~$13 and is the equivalent of a Surefire 6P (I have several examples of both, and the SolarForce is top notch, parts interchange, etc). You will also need a lamp module, SolarForce makes a 200 Lumen LED module for about $17 and a 350 Lumen LED module for about $18. I have a few of the 200 Lumen modules and they are way brighter than the surefire LED modules.

Going this route you get a 6P equivalent light with a much higher output LED for a little over $30. Not a bad deal. I've had one of their 200 Lumen LED modules mounted on my AR for some time now, lots of rounds down range and the module is still working great.

[Wherryj]

The problem with a G2 is that it is Nitrolon and Nitrolon does not absorb the heat from the LED. The LED module will heat up because not all of the energy going into the LED generates photons. Some of the energy turns into heat. With an aluminum Surefire 6P the body of the flashlight is part of the heatsinking mass and this protects the LED from going thermal. The G2, even with an aluminum bezel, will not be able to dissipate the heat quickly enough and extended run times of more than 10 minutes or so are not recommended. Having said that, something with a Cree XP-G emitter being fed 700mA would not be too bad and will give you a little bit more than 200 lumens. The problem is that no one makes anything with a 700mA driver anymore unless you go custom. My personal G2 has an XP-G driven at 700mA but I had to assemble it myself from individual components.

You aren't kidding. I have a G2 running and incandescent 60 (?) Lumen bulb and if it is running for more than about 15 seconds the case gets noticeably warm. I had it turn on in my pocket. I don't know how long it was on, but it became hot enough to nearly burn my leg.

I'd suspect that the LED would be less of an issue with respect to heat, but that nitrolon case doesn't have as much of a heat sink capability as the standard 6P metal case.