Okay It's Official

[SoCal50Lover]

I am completely awful at setting scopes. I mean that in the most terrible way. I went thru the complete range of the dials and got nowhere.

510DTC w/ SWFA 10x42.

I will be at Burro Canyon on June 19th on a private range. If someone wants to come help this complete idiot sight in his Bohemath you can shoot the lane on me all day if you want and bring a friend. I would love it if someone can show me the basics first hand. It's awesome without the rangemaster and stopages. Post in the thread your game and we'll hook up 6/19.

[caoboy]

What yardage did you start trying to zero in your scope?

[SoCal50Lover]

It was 80 yards. I know that is short but I was actually just trying to get it in the field of view. THen next range on the 19th is 110 yards. I know that is still short but can that be used?

[caoboy]

From zeroing my scopes, I started really short, at 15 yards, to get on paper, and then 25, then moved up to 50, which is what I shoot it at. This was for .22, but the principle should be the same.

Start at a really short range, like 25 yards, to get on paper, then go from there.

Plenty of scope zeroing videos on youtube as well. I saw one from the guy who owns Midway USA, which is how I figured out how to do it.

[SoCal50Lover]

Oh okay I sort of get now. Now when you say on paper do you mean like bullseye or just on the paper?

[SoCal50Lover]

Oh, and here is one more thing that confuses me. On my scope the dial(s) say bullet impact R and Up. Let say the bullet impacts at the first dot up and first dot left.Which way are the dials going to be turned?

[caoboy]

On paper. Once you get it on paper, you start dialing it in.


If it is R and UP, then whatever direction the arrow on the R points, is right and the other is left. Same for UP, whatever direction the UP points is up, and the other is down.

What I've do, is shoot 3 shot groups, using a sandbag and a bi-pod, keeping the rifle as steady as possible.

Look through your scope, and center the crosshair in the center of the shot group. Now shot another 3 shot group, your rifle should be shooting where the crosshair is positioned.

Once that is dialed in, you shoot a longer range target, making finite adjustments (usually only needing to move the crosshair up for BDC) until you are at the yardage you shoot at or whatever you are trying to zero your scope for.

Once that is done, you are supposed to remove the dials (refer to your instruction manual for your scope) and set them to '0' on both, that way, when/if you need to make adjustments (compensate for wind, distance) you can always set the scope back to '0' and have your 100yd zero (again, if you are shooting for that)

There are other ways, like removing the bolt and looking through your barrel at the target to get it 'on paper,' or using a bore-sighter, many methods, so do some more research and see which might help you better.

Again, I've only shot .22 with a scope, so it's easy for me to just bang away and make adjustments without worrying about the cost of ammo, so my way is a bit 'wasteful' for some.

[caoboy]

Oh, and here is one more thing that confuses me. On my scope the dial(s) say bullet impact R and Up. Let say the bullet impacts at the first dot up and first dot left.Which way are the dials going to be turned?

At 100 yards, that'd be 1moa up and 1 moa left, if you are using a target that has 1"grids to sight in.

That is equal to 1" up and 1" left.

If your scope is shooting up one and left one, and uses MOA adjustments, (mine uses 1/4" MOA at 100yds) Then you would go four 'clicks' right and 4 'clicks' down.

[SoCal50Lover]

Thank you for that helpful info. I will get there. I'm going to hit that can of Dinty Moore Stew can at a mile yet

[rero360]

regardless of the range that you are shooting, once you get onto paper, a good way to get zeroed in two shots is to once you fire that first round, return your crosshairs to where you were aiming at first and then turn the knobs to bring the crosshairs onto the bullet hole, then re aim at the bullseye and fire again to confirm the zero. to do this properly you need a good solid position so that you can make the adjustments to the scope without moving the rifle.

[SoCal50Lover]

I'm sitting here reading all this good intel and come my next range trip I am going to be all over the mountain .

[Sheldon]

you went through the entire range of the dials and saw no change or just not enough change to get zeroed??

[rero360]

Additionally, before you go to the range again, you should make sure that everything is snugged down tight, the base to the receiver, rings to base, and ring halves.

Also before you fire your first shot, get the rifle in a good supported position, take the bolt out and look down the bore at an object, then looking thru the scope, dial the reticle onto that same object all while not disturbing the rifle. This should get you on paper for when you do get to the range.

[sleepur606]

Getting a scope zeroed isn't all that hard. Like the other guys have said, you just need to start at a short distance to get one paper, then apply the same techniques used to get on paper to "re-zero" at a longer distance.

I'd be down to help you zero if you still need help. I need to get out to the range and make use of my "precision" stuff. I've got a spotting scope that's in decent shape and a scoped .223 that could use some practice too.

Jeeze, I just need a range trip. If you're still getting the range on the 19th, I'd be glad to put in to help out for use of the range as well as do my best to help you get your scope zeroed.

Let me know.

[SoCal50Lover]

Actually I thought I went thru the range of the dials but I was mistaken. Yeah I was going about it the opposite way starting far. Plus I forgot my bench rest at home. The rifle had a bipod but still I am not that steady. I can't wait until the 19th when I go back.