Adjusting Sightmark RDS

[hotrail]

I received the pictured Sightmark red dot sight (see attached JPG) as a gift and have tried it on a couple 22s. Tonight I installed it on a Savage Rascal. As you can see from the attached pic, I have to crank the elevation adjustment WAY out to get it zeroed in. Its cranked out there to the point that it is not really very stable on the rifle. You can grab it by hand and tilt it from side to side, with all the play in the springs. I had the very same situation when I had it installed on another 22.

Any thoughts on what I might be doing wrong? There is a screw on the underside of the sight, in the front, but I don't think its intended as an adjustment, but playing with it seems to change the tension on the whole adjustment mechanism. Would adjusting that screw help get the correct point of aim, without having the elevation screw extended so dramatically? Windage is not a problem, just the elevation.

Thanks for any constructive recommendations and please hold all of the "get rid of it and buy an Aimpoint" or whatever. I would never have wasted my money on this particular sight, I am just hoping I can make use of it.

[Whiskey_Tango]

Does the rail have built in MOA? Could it be backwards?

[hotrail]

Does the rail have built in MOA? Could it be backwards?

No, rail has no MOA built in, and it only installs one direction. Moreover, I had the same problem on a 22 pistol, installing on the OEM supplied rail.

[foothillman]

What distance are you "zero" in.
The height of the optic from the barrel and the distance to "zero" can make a huge difference.

If that is 1.5 Inch above barrel and distance is 10 yds. than yes it is "normal"
If that is 0.5 inch above barrel and distance is 100 yds. than no it is "defective"
That type looks like it changes the angle of the glass vs. red dot.
In my opinion.

Think of it as a triangle and the longer distance away will have less of "down" angle on your optic.


"yes" I understand that the bullet will drop over time so "triangle" is not a proper use but makes for a simple explanation.

http://www.gunsmoke.com/guns/1022/22ballistics.html

[baih777]

What distance are you "zero" in.
The height of the optic from the barrel and the distance to "zero" can make a huge difference.

If that is 1.5 Inch above barrel and distance is 10 yds. than yes it is "normal"
If that is 0.5 inch above barrel and distance is 100 yds. than no it is "defective"
That type looks like it changes the angle of the glass vs. red dot.
In my opinion.

Think of it as a triangle and the longer distance away will have less of "down" angle on your optic.


"yes" I understand that the bullet will drop over time so "triangle" is not a proper use but makes for a simple explanation.

http://www.gunsmoke.com/guns/1022/22ballistics.html

^^^^^^^^^^ this
If you are trying to set zero inside the garage. Your too close.

[mshill]

I have one of these. These are pretty good cheap RDS and by far the best Sightmark RDS. Mine was on a Marlin 795 with a Steyr AUG stock. Never had a problem zeroing or holding zero 9n a .22lr.

[foothillman]

That style moves the glass and not the red dot.
Think of a scope with FIXED crosshair and you need to raise or lower the rear scope ring to sight it.
If you can lower the front pivot than the rear will also be lower and put more pressure on the adjustment spring/screw.

hotrail
What distance was your "zero" ?

If you have a laser level put the laser on a table.
Remove your Sight Mark and put the middle of the glass on the same horizontal plane.
Adjust the vertical on your Sight Mark.
Look and see if you still have a large angle.

Or just shoot it and see if it holds up.

[crufflers]

Those work ok as long as you don't drop them or bump them. Drop them and stuff will fly off. You might get pot metal and plastic in your eye.