Questions on Zero with EOTECH Magnifier

[GunBuggy]

Hey guys,

Quick question here regarding the Eotech EXPS3-4 paired with a G33 Magnifier. I have used eotechs and aimpoints for a while now, but have never once used them with a magnifier. I usually have my 5.56 rifles zero'd at 100 yards, therefore when shooting up close I use the hold-over method. (At 25 yards, my red dot will usually be placed around 1.5" above what i want to hit, so on and so forth).
SO for my question. I recently purchased an EXPS3-4 and G33 combo. If I sight my EXPS3-4 in at 100 yards like my other red dots, does the magnifier change the POI at all? Or when I flip up the magnifier into the magnifying position, will I still be sighted in at 100 yards? Basically my main question is does the magnifier change anything at all, or does it literally just magnify what im seeing and have no negative/adverse affects on the already zero'd red dot?

A secondary question is, if I am engaging a target out at 100 yards while magnified, and i make a quick change WITHOUT disengaging the magnifier to a closer target (lets say 25 yards for S's and G's) will I still use a hold-over method of 1.5" above the area I want to hit, or does being magnified at a closer distance have negative/adverse affects on my hold-over?

Thanks so much for your help, this is a new concept to me and I want to get my head wrapped around it before I waste some time at the range.

[FeuerFrei]

Magnifier doesn't change your sighted in poi/poa. Close or far.
When I did up close shooting with an EOT sight I just put the hash mark located at 6oclock on the reticle as my poi/poa.

**I found out that a 35yd zero worked best for 7 to 300yds. Tightest ballistic spread over that range.
Point and shoot no hold over nonsense.

[GunBuggy]

Magnifier doesn't change your sighted in poi/poa. Close or far.
When I did up close shooting with an EOT sight I just put the hash mark located at 6oclock on the reticle as my poi/poa.

**I found out that a 35yd zero worked best for 7 to 300yds. Tightest ballistic spread over that range.
Point and shoot no hold over nonsense.

thanks for the info! 35yd zero sounds nice. when you reach out to 100 yards are you holding under? I feel like 35yd is a strange zero. Id love to understand your reasoning behind this. It almost sounds like it would be more appealing to me than a 100yd zero but thats if your statement is correct about no hold over/under from 7-300 yards. sounds like that would be impossible please explain!

[FeuerFrei]

To be clear. I don't mean a target zero. I mean a combat zero.
When I zero at 35 the trajectory breaks the line of sight at different ranges. Hi or low depending on distance.
So the poi is higher or lower as my target appears before or after the 35 range. I'm lousey at guessing ranges even tho my ACOG's have a ranging capability. Nothing is ever exactly at the hash marked range.
This is why a 35 yd zero works well for me. It takes into account the bullets arch from a close poa/poi out to 300. Everything else in the middle ranges doesnt spread more than about 7"from poa total when the reticle is on target. So shooting a smaller spread over that distance kinda eliminates having to get on the correct hash mark for ranging or quickly judging distance.

7 yds on a EOT, the bottom hash mark lines up perfectly for close shots.
Close head shots with an ACOG or Aimpoint are simply putting the dot or chevron on the hair line at 7.
Its really more simple than it reads, but I hope that makes sense.
It just minimizes the shots poi spread over more distances by just holding on the target.

Sent using a long string and 2 used soup cans

[Unforgiven]

I used the magnifier for 3 Gun, no change in zero. Fifty yard zero is optimum for the .556/.223 round. A little high at 25yd and 100yd, back to dead on at 200 yd.

[GunBuggy]

To be clear. I don't mean a target zero. I mean a combat zero.
When I zero at 35 the trajectory breaks the line of sight at different ranges. Hi or low depending on distance.
So the poi is higher or lower as my target appears before or after the 35 range. I'm lousey at guessing ranges even tho my ACOG's have a ranging capability. Nothing is ever exactly at the hash marked range.
This is why a 35 yd zero works well for me. It takes into account the bullets arch from a close poa/poi out to 300. Everything else in the middle ranges doesnt spread more than about 7"from poa total when the reticle is on target. So shooting a smaller spread over that distance kinda eliminates having to get on the correct hash mark for ranging or quickly judging distance.

7 yds on a EOT, the bottom hash mark lines up perfectly for close shots.
Close head shots with an ACOG or Aimpoint are simply putting the dot or chevron on the hair line at 7.
Its really more simple than it reads, but I hope that makes sense.
It just minimizes the shots poi spread over more distances by just holding on the target.

Sent using a long string and 2 used soup cans

interesting. I like the idea of that. I will have to look into that!

[GunBuggy]

I used the magnifier for 3 Gun, no change in zero. Fifty yard zero is optimum for the .556/.223 round. A little high at 25yd and 100yd, back to dead on at 200 yd.

Thanks for the response! So nothing to worry about. If optic is sighted in, magnifier will not effect.

[Mute]

What everyone is referring to is commonly referred to as the Revised Improved Battlesight Zero (RIBZ). You can read more about it here:

RIBZ

[FeuerFrei]

Sorry. My TJ is all done now.
Regardless of nomenclature it still is worthy of thought and deciding on what works best for the user.

Many of you might have heard of the maximum point blank range method of zeroing. MPBR is a zero scheme that is unique to your rifle and loading. It maximizes the “point blank range” where you have to remember a single hold to get hits out to the end of the point blank range, hence “maximum point blank range.” As an example, imagine a disk six inches in diameter and I want to hit that disk as far out as possible with one zero. How would I do that? I would zero the rifle so that the trajectory of my bullet will arch 3 inches high and where the bullet would fall 3 inches below my line of sight, that would mark the end of my MPBR zero. That disk could be at 25, 100, 212, or 274.5 yards and a single center hold would allow me to hit it with no need for holdover.

http://www.thenewrifleman.com/maximum-bullet-flight-getting-the-most-out-of-ar15-zero/

[teflondog]

When I had an Eotech, I adjusted for a 50-yard zero. Holdover at close range was easy using the bottom of the reticle.

With a 50-yard zero, the POI is within 2.5" of the POA all the way out to 250 yards.