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The cutaway cross-slot screw is a common technique on less expensive mounts to give a flat face recoil lug without having a separate one as part of the design. Burris does this on their rings, as do others. It shouldn't affect tightness.
Looseness is due to not clamping with enough side force (assuming you've tightened the nut a bit with a wrench). Some uppers have problems with the rail profile, which isn't spec'ed as tightly as the rail slots - I have a CMMG that does the same thing with various mounts, including some ARMS gear.
Sometimes you can fix it if you don't mind a little file work.
If you look at the mount when it's as tight as it goes, see where the clamp's stopping against the rail or mount, and whether removing some material from the clamp would let it grip tighter. You generally only need to remove a little bit of metal to get it clamping tightly.
I took a little off the rail on a loose flashlight mount clamp, and it fixed it right up. A little spray paint will cover it up if you care, but the bare metal on the clamp won't be anywhere you'd see it.
Looseness is due to not clamping with enough side force (assuming you've tightened the nut a bit with a wrench). Some uppers have problems with the rail profile, which isn't spec'ed as tightly as the rail slots - I have a CMMG that does the same thing with various mounts, including some ARMS gear.
Sometimes you can fix it if you don't mind a little file work.
If you look at the mount when it's as tight as it goes, see where the clamp's stopping against the rail or mount, and whether removing some material from the clamp would let it grip tighter. You generally only need to remove a little bit of metal to get it clamping tightly.
I took a little off the rail on a loose flashlight mount clamp, and it fixed it right up. A little spray paint will cover it up if you care, but the bare metal on the clamp won't be anywhere you'd see it.
I was using pliers before and I guess it just wasn't doing the trick.
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