AimPoint H1 Zeros (Newbie Question)

[Gomphe]

Hi Everyone,

Forgive me for this extremely nebbish question, but if I moved my AimPoint H1 optic one notch/grove back (which is about 1 cm) on my picatinny rail, will that have an effect my zero at 25 meters? If so, by how much?

Thank you all in advance.

- Gomphe

[teflondog]

With a 50 yard zero, you probably won't notice any difference at all at 25 meters by moving your Aimpoint only one notch back on the rail. I estimate the shift in POI will be less than half an inch.

[Junkie]

That's going to depend a lot on what the tolerances are on your upper. If everything is perfect I wouldn't expect it to change, but things aren't. Keeping the torque the same is also important.

[HK Dave]

That's going to depend a lot on what the tolerances are on your upper. If everything is perfect I wouldn't expect it to change, but things aren't. Keeping the torque the same is also important.

This... however one of the other questions is... why are you zeroing at 25 yards?

[Gomphe]

This... however one of the other questions is... why are you zeroing at 25 yards?

Thank you both for the replies and insight. I am trying to determine if the POI would be a noticable difference if I kept my existing zero after moving my optic back one notch.

Now to a answer your second question - why a 25 meters (27 yards) zero? The AR currently using this Aimpoint optic is designed for close quarters engagements under 25 meters.

Thanks again.

-Gomphe

[HK Dave]

This is only a suggestion... but unless you have a really important reason to hit EXACTLY where your mark is at 25 yards... you might be better served with a 50 or 100 yard zero... let me explain.

With a 25 yard zero with XM193 out of a 16" barrel...

25 yards: Zero
50 yards: 2.4" low
100 yards: 6.3" low
200 yards: 10.7" low

With a 50 yard zero...

25 yards: 1.2" high
50 yards: zero
100 yards: 1.6" low
200 yards: 1.2" low

With a 100 yard zero...

25 yards: 1.6" high
50 yards: .8" high
100 yards: zero
200 yards: 1.9" low

As you can see... with a 25 yard zero... while you're on at 25 yards... you start dropping rapidly beyond that... your firearm becomes one that is difficult to shoot at anything remotely at distance with a red dot...

With a 50 or 100 yard zero.. your trajectory is pretty flat from 25 yards to 200 yards...

Personally, anything that has magnification, I zero at 100 yards... anything that is a red dot or no magnification, gets zeroed at 50 yards... but thats ME.

Just thought this might be helpful. But of course if you have an absolute reason for being at 25 yards... like say, you're LE, then by all means.

[essjay]

With a 25 yard zero with XM193 out of a 16" barrel...

25 yards: Zero
50 yards: 2.4" low
100 yards: 6.3" low
200 yards: 10.7" low

With a 50 yard zero...

25 yards: 1.2" high
50 yards: zero
100 yards: 1.6" low
200 yards: 1.2" low

With a 100 yard zero...

25 yards: 1.6" high
50 yards: .8" high
100 yards: zero
200 yards: 1.9" low

You're points right, but your data's wrong.

With the 100-yard zero, you'll always be low (unless you're at 100 yards). With a 50-yard zero, you'll be low at 25 yards, high at 100 yards, and probably still high at 200 yards. With a 25-yarf zero, you'll be high between 25 yards and at least 300 yards.

[purer00r]

I run 36 yard zero on my T1....move it back then go check, seem like a good reason to verify. Why do you want to move it back a notch, the goal with rds is to put it as far forward while keeping it on the reciever and not bridge the hand guard.

[DallasGreen]

I move my t-1 up and down all types of award and bang steel all day. Never really precision zeroed my red dots

[Gomphe]

This is only a suggestion... but unless you have a really important reason to hit EXACTLY where your mark is at 25 yards... you might be better served with a 50 or 100 yard zero... let me explain.

With a 25 yard zero with XM193 out of a 16" barrel...

25 yards: Zero
50 yards: 2.4" low
100 yards: 6.3" low
200 yards: 10.7" low

With a 50 yard zero...

25 yards: 1.2" high
50 yards: zero
100 yards: 1.6" low
200 yards: 1.2" low

With a 100 yard zero...

25 yards: 1.6" high
50 yards: .8" high
100 yards: zero
200 yards: 1.9" low

As you can see... with a 25 yard zero... while you're on at 25 yards... you start dropping rapidly beyond that... your firearm becomes one that is difficult to shoot at anything remotely at distance with a red dot...

With a 50 or 100 yard zero.. your trajectory is pretty flat from 25 yards to 200 yards...

Personally, anything that has magnification, I zero at 100 yards... anything that is a red dot or no magnification, gets zeroed at 50 yards... but thats ME.

Just thought this might be helpful. But of course if you have an absolute reason for being at 25 yards... like say, you're LE, then by all means.

You are not the first one to make such a suggestion and I am grateful for the helpful reminder. And yes, this rifle is dedicated for close quarters and also serves as a HD rifle. That is the reason behind the 25 meter zero. Additionally, (and I may be completely wrong on my research) most fire fights involving rifles take place within the 14 to 19 meter range (under 3 meters if it is a handgun).

And to address the question of why moving the optic back one notch instead of keeping it on the bridge of the receiver? The optic is currently at the very end of the bridge of the receiver. I just want to adjust the optic to give myself better eye relief while having my shoulder stock at a comfortable length.

- Gomphe

[HK Dave]

You're points right, but your data's wrong.

With the 100-yard zero, you'll always be low (unless you're at 100 yards). With a 50-yard zero, you'll be low at 25 yards, high at 100 yards, and probably still high at 200 yards. With a 25-yarf zero, you'll be high between 25 yards and at least 300 yards.

Sorry, was a long day at work, you're correct. For the OPP for the 100yard and 50 yard zero, you're never high before the zero.

[Interstateguns]

I'm more of a visual person. Hope this helps:

[HK Dave]

Nice Chris!