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[zman]

My friend has a Nikon Monarch 3 (5-20x44) that he's very happy with. It's within your budget as well....maybe less with coupons and deals.

http://www.opticsplanet.com/nikon-monarch-3-5-20x44-np.html

[JMP]

Thank you so much brother for your time and effort, I mean that. The SWFA did impressed me in overall quality of how is build, lenses and reputation. At $1300 is not really a budget scope and from my understanding it does track Perfectly back to zero spot on all the time, every time

You can find one on sale for used for about $1,000. Heck, I have an extra one. I don't want to sound like a snob here, but if you are trying to see to a mile and further, it's a very different story than what you'd want for 1,000 yards and inside. That's a lot of distance the scope needs to cut through. Any errors, even the slightest that may not be perceptible at closer ranges, will really show it. That said, for the least money, I think the SWFA 5-20 is the best you can do.

For $1,000, in a 30mm tube and 50mm objective, the picture of the SWFA kicks butt. You do lose on the construction and do not get the light you would from a full size scope. Because SWFA allows the erector system to run out to the ends, it gives you about 350 clicks so you have plenty of elevation. That allows you to get out there, but it is not without sacrifice. You get a little distortion, and when you are at these extrema, you are best to shoot a spotter and hold the fine adjustments to make the hits.

The GENERAL RULE OF THUMB is that you never trust a 30mm tube for perfect tracking for more than 18 mil, and you don't trust a 34mm tube for more than 26 mil, and a 36mm tube for 36 mil. That's generally what the geometry dictates for no distortion. It is nice when scopes allow you extra clicks as long as you understand the limitations. If you use the SWFA 5-20, put in on a really high cant.

The SWFA lacks strength and durability, which isn't an issue if you are careful with the scope. The reticle is a bit thick for a 20x FFP scope with a solid crosshair, which makes it a bit difficult on very precise shots. Then, actually my biggest complain are the parallax and zoom knobs as they are a bit too stiff in turning for my liking. The 10 milliradian knob is good for longer distance application as you will get lost in your elevation with a standard 5 mil knob; however, this gives for a bit of mush in the turrets as it isn't as clean as the better scopes. Those are the CONS, but all in all, it's a great scope at ~$1,000.

To be honest, most people that buy a 338 Lapua need no more than a scope like that as they end up not actually shooting it that much. Folks that do a lot of shooting will eventually want to upgrade. Hence, I'd also recommend NOT spending $6k on a really good scope until you know you are going to make good use of it.

I don't want to sound like a glass snob, but you did say 1 mile+, and this is expensive to make, and there is no way around it. I've made hits at a mile on 1 MOA targets with a SWFA scope. It'll work, but it isn't your ideal pick.

JPM

btw the SWFA have HD glass or better called high density glass

Yes, when I say 5-20, the HD is implied as I do not believe they make a 5-20 classic version. With the SWFA HD, it is MUCH MUCH better than the classic, and I am well aware of the difference as I have pieces in both HD and classic. I think it the best glass FOR THE MONEY.

[CSTactical]

If you were able to stretch your budget to around 750, we stock Vortex PST's http://www.cstactical.com/optics/rif...per-pst-series If you want somthing a little cheaper, we also stock the HS-T's http://www.cstactical.com/optics/rif...iper-hs-series If there's anything else I could help you with, please feel free to PM me or contact me at our email below. Hope this helps though

-David