Keep scope from canting while tightening rings

[VendetAR]

I have had an unending head banging issue with trying to keep my scopes fairly level while tightening up the rings. I use levels on the reticle and the rifle in a rest to get them all lined up. Problem is, as I start tightening the rings, the scope ends up canting over as I torque the screws.

My current problem child is a Burris PEPR mount and a Bushnell Elite Tactical scope. Im not worried about the scope being leveled PERFECTLY, but if I get behind the gun and I can tell its off 4 degrees, thats irritating, especially if I have to now cant the rifle in an uncomfortable position to level the scope.

What Im hoping for is any special technique to keeping things level while tightening. I've usually resorted to canting the scope and hoping that it comes into level when tightened, but I'd prefer to just keep it where I set it and not have to do a trial and error game to get it right.

[VendetAR]

Just got a PM with this post http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=5&t=335031

You use a stack of feeler gauges between the turret and the mount to keep it flat. Gonna try it tomorrow!

[Garand1911]

Just apply a slight amount of torque on the screws, finger tight, just enough to apply some tension on the scope, but allowing you to adjust it. Make your scope adjustments, then tighten the screws a slight bit more, in a cross pattern. Check it and then fully tighten and torque.

[Toten Kopf]

Stacking feeler gauges is one way I guess (never tired it). But not all mounts allow this, a two piece mount for example.

I have had the scope rotate on occasion but I did notice that it would always rotate the same direction. I would then add opposite rotation so when the rings were tightened the scope would be centered.

I do use the Deadeye Precision Scope Leveler to level the rifle and scope reticle.

[eviioiive]

feeler gauges and cross pattern tighten

[OpticsPlanet]

With a rifle with a flat surface, I have used a digital level app on my iPhone. First i get the rifle level on the bipod, then I get to scope to match the reading of the rifle, using the elevation knob or cap.

The Theodolite app will display tilt to .1 degree. I'm sure there are others, but I like the ease of use with Theodolite.

Screen shot:



The feeler gauges work well also, as long as you have a flat surface on the bottom of the optic and a corresponding flat surface on the rifle to place the feelers between.

Mark H.

[VendetAR]

The feeler gauge method worked perfect. If there is any cant in the optic, its from me holding it wrong. I wish I knew this sooner as I have played hell trying to get some optics leveled out.

[m16]

If you watch the scope level as you are torquing, you'll see the bubble start to move.

If you catch it early enough you can jump to the other side and start torquing the opposite screw, this has always worked for me.

[postal]

Most rings, I cross bolt tighten- moving from one screw to the next in small incremental steps of tightening until it finally starts to snug down. Once you have 1 ring nicely snug, the other ring is not so finicky.... the first ring keeps the scope from moving. I still cross bolt tighten, but tighten each screw more before switching- unlike the first ring.

Some rings however, TPS for one, the instructions specifically state to fully tighten 1 side of the ring, then the other side. There is an intentional gap between the top/bottom ring on the second side, and the first side is tight. As well made as those rings are, I did not have a problem with the scope moving while tightening.