Thumb break holster question

[nickel plate]

I bought an Uncle Mike's Law Enforcement Super Belt Slide Holster (OWB) for carring my Colt .45 Combat Commander around my very rural mountain property. I chose the thumb break design for it's a secure design in rough terrain. My question is which side of the holster does the female strap go on, I am right handed. My first impression and most comfortable to me is to push out (right thumb pushing toward index finger) on the the outboard female strap. It came packaged in reverse. This holster is ambidextrous so the thumb break straps can mount either way in velcro pockets. BTW, the instructions in the package are for another holster, PRO-3 leg straps, etc.

Beyond that, I found the holster which is made out of black synthetic fiber/sewn material too light for the stainless steel Colt. The ear slots when belted up tended to cup in and thus causing an annoying pistol flop while walking around. My fix was to cut out of 1/4" black re-enforced pick up truck bed liner material, two pieces to glue onto the inboard side of the holster for added strength (less flex) and flatten the holster to the conture of my waist. Now it works well and hugs tight! What about the thumb break positioning?

[RickD427]

I bought an Uncle Mike's Law Enforcement Super Belt Slide Holster (OWB) for carring my Colt .45 Combat Commander around my very rural mountain property. I chose the thumb break design for it's a secure design in rough terrain. My question is which side of the holster does the female strap go on, I am right handed. My first impression and most comfortable to me is to push out (right thumb pushing toward index finger) on the the outboard female strap. It came packaged in reverse. This holster is ambidextrous so the thumb break straps can mount either way in velcro pockets. BTW, the instructions in the package are for another holster, PRO-3 leg straps, etc.

Beyond that, I found the holster which is made out of black synthetic fiber/sewn material too light for the stainless steel Colt. The ear slots when belted up tended to cup in and thus causing an annoying pistol flop while walking around. My fix was to cut out of 1/4" black re-enforced pick up truck bed liner material, two pieces to glue onto the inboard side of the holster for added strength (less flex) and flatten the holster to the conture of my waist. Now it works well and hugs tight! What about the thumb break positioning?

It depends how your holster was designed.

The majority of thumb break holsters are built with the snap on the inboard side (next to your body). You draw by pressing your thumb against the tab and pushing toward you as you draw.

There are some holsters designed with the tab on the outboard side. The idea is that you hit this tab with the blade of your hand as it is en route to grasp the weapon.

The best advice is to find one style of holster that works for you and then stick with it. Many years ago there was an embarrassing video taken during a bank robbery in the city of Brea. An off-duty officer was carrying a revolver in a holster that was designed to be a clamshell (it clamped the weapon, and you pulled it free against a spring's resistance). They were good holsters if used as intended. This officer stuck it into his waistband. When the suspect drew his weapon, the off-duty officer did the same. He wound up pointing his weapon at the robber, still encased in it's holster. All caught on video. The event ended well. The officer stripped the holster from the weapon and fired. He ultimately won.

I've always found Uncle Mike's products to be a little on "lightly built" side. They may not be expensive, but you get what you pay for. Of the large manufacturers, Galco, Safariland, and Bianchi all have good products. My favorite holster maker is a small shop in New York. FIST Holsters (you can easily locate then on the web) makes a wide variety of holsters, they're well built, and they'll make you a holster for rare weapons the big guys just will not touch.

[nickel plate]

It depends how your holster was designed.

The majority of thumb break holsters are built with the snap on the inboard side (next to your body). You draw by pressing your thumb against the tab and pushing toward you as you draw.

There are some holsters designed with the tab on the outboard side. The idea is that you hit this tab with the blade of your hand as it is en route to grasp the weapon.

The best advice is to find one style of holster that works for you and then stick with it. Many years ago there was an embarrassing video taken during a bank robbery in the city of Brea. An off-duty officer was carrying a revolver in a holster that was designed to be a clamshell (it clamped the weapon, and you pulled it free against a spring's resistance). They were good holsters if used as intended. This officer stuck it into his waistband. When the suspect drew his weapon, the off-duty officer did the same. He wound up pointing his weapon at the robber, still encased in it's holster. All caught on video. The event ended well. The officer stripped the holster from the weapon and fired. He ultimately won.

In this case I have a choice due to the two velcro pockets for appendix or crossdraw, right or left handed. Thank you for your response but not the answer I am looking for.

[taloft]

If you're wearing it on your right side, then the thumb break would be on the left side of the holster next to your body. Same place your thumb will be when drawing the firearm. In the process of taking your normal draw grip, you push the thumb break towards your body causing it to release. As you complete your draw stroke you naturally find your thumb near the safety of the 1911. Appendix or crossdraw same thing. Your thumb will still be on the inside of your holster during the draw. The reason you can move the thumb break is because if you carry on your left side your thumb would be in the opposite position. Odds are it came from the factory set up for a right handed shooter since this is more common.