What is your latest C&R project ?

[pitfighter]

Great - I will try them again with the Diamondback - your revolver looks good.

[TRAP55]

Nice!
Now I'm wondering if Brian figured out how to get that Marlin back together, cause I want to shoot it!

[6mmintl]

Putting/bedding a 1968 Finn M39 into a Boyd's laminated tactical stock and burning the original military stock.

[fuegoboy]

I am "re-making" a kit-made" Jukar Tower pistol (.45 cal.)!

At first glance it looks like a decent pistol.

But that glossy finish covers varnish, stain and very poor fitting of all the hardware.


The trigger guard inlet is not deep enough so the guard is not flush with the stock.


The stock has not been formed to the stock pommel.


The side plate is not flush with the stock.


The nose cap has been butchered. Will need to fill in the wood and then realign.


The barrel tang is not flush with the stock.The trigger inlet will be fixed first and then the barrel tang will be refitted so the tang is flush with the stock.


After a first run to strip the finish I discovered beneath the poly coat was another finish. The stock will take several passes to get to the bare wood.

Stay tuned.

[6mmintl]

Fitting and finishing a Boyd's walnut stock to my 1942 Swede M38. Yes, I have a military stockset for it. And a scout scope mount. If I ever take up deer hunting, this will be the rifle (with the scope).

Crunch

Beautiful piece of wood!!!

[6mmintl]

I am "re-making" a kit-made" Jukar Tower pistol (.45 cal.)!

At first glance it looks like a decent pistol.

But that glossy finish covers varnish, stain and very poor fitting of all the hardware.


The trigger guard inlet is not deep enough so the guard is not flush with the stock.


The stock has not been formed to the stock pommel.


The side plate is not flush with the stock.


The nose cap has been butchered. Will need to fill in the wood and then realign.


The barrel tang is not flush with the stock.The trigger inlet will be fixed first and then the barrel tang will be refitted so the tang is flush with the stock.


After a first run to strip the finish I discovered beneath the poly coat was another finish. The stock will take several passes to get to the bare wood.

Stay tuned.

Your on the right track with all your fixes and will turn that butt ugly piece into a nicer looking shooter. Lap the barrel out and it will be smoother easier to load and shoot well.

[6mmintl]

This in a Boyds tacticool laminated stock.
Moison mount with pics.

[fuegoboy]

After a few hours off and on the Tower Pistol restoration came to a conclusion.

The nose cap is rebuilt, subject to interpretation, but the pistol looks much better now.

Before


After


Stripping off the poly coating and other stuff that was lurking underneath the wood finally came through.

The barrel tang was made flush with the stock and the hardware is now better fitted with the wood.


The nose cap is still a problem due to the double-tap from the cap to the barrel.

This Tower Pistol now joins another CVA Tower Kit I put together earlier this year.



It's interesting to see that the older kit has more brass hardware and the stock seem to be better shaped for the hand. My 2-bits worth. The top pistol barrel has a black finish while the bottom pistol barrel has a plum finish.

You can also see the difference between the two locks and how that gives the appearance that the older pistol is shorter than the newer pistol.

Range report to follow.

[Enfield47]

Nicely done!

What did you use to fill in the areas on the stock there were too deeply cut for the metal to sit flush?

[highpower]

They probably aren't quite c&r status yet, but in addition to a MG42/M53 machinegun conversion, I just bought a late '60's M16-A1 kit I am going to restore (semi only) to go with my early Colt SP1 and AR15-A2

[fuegoboy]

Enfield47, for the barrel tang I glued a thin piece of wood into the inlay cut and then slowly shaved it down until the tang was flush with the stock.

Part of the problem with the tang is that it is curved and the underside is also concave, so shaving the wood required shaving more on the edges of the piece than just shaving it evenly.

The barrel needed to be raised a bit so the hammer strikes the cap squarely. If it's too low the edge of the hammer will catch the cap and start burring the nipple.



To correct the nose piece I also glued three thin strips of wood and then slowly shaved the form until the nosecap edges were flush, more or less, with the stock.



I used a rasp and #100 sandpaper to shape the nose form.

Hope this helps.