Quick C96 Red 9 price check

[Gutter]

Think I found a real, deal Red 9 C96 for $1000 with stock and mismatching serials (on the gun, didn't check the stock). What's the ballpark rate for these nowadays? Checked the completed auction search on Gunbroker and saw they were in the $1.5k - $2k+ range for matching ones in slightly better shape. Wanted to poll your opinions to see if it's worth the dough to invest in it and add it to the collection. I don't have pictures as of this moment.

[gun toting monkeyboy]

IF it is real. And IF it hasn't been refinished, that isn't a horrible price for a mixed-part gun. Assuming it is in somewhat decent condition. It isn't super. But real red 9s do command a bit of a premium. And if the stock (I am assuming you mean shoulder stock, not grips) is real, that is actually a decent price. If it is a repro Chinese stock, they run about $100. Just be aware that the state of California doesn't care that the ATF has ruled stocks are legal on these. They will still go after you on it as an illegal weapon if you put the stock on the pistol.

-Mb

[Gutter]

Definitely not refinished and the serial seems to fall in the right range from what I can remember. I'll have to go back in and take a look at the stock this time as I just blew it off because I thought 9's were going for $600 - $800.

[Syntax Error]

I wish Red 9s went for $600-800! If it's a real-deal Prussian Contract M1916, with the 50-500m rear tangent sight, and the serial numbers are in the right range of numbers, and it's not in horrible shape, that's a great deal IMO. There's a lot of faked Red 9 guns out there, including using Bolos and M1930 guns represented as "Red 9s", just because of the grips, but that is by far the most unreliable way to tell if a Broom is a genuine Red 9.

[Gutter]

Definitely wasn't a Bolo and it seemed to be in pretty decent shape with some faded bluing. It is missing the lanyard ring that hooks to the bottom of the grip frame. How easy are those to replace?

[Syntax Error]

Well, do you know if it's a legit Red 9, or are you going just by the grips? Does the barrel have a step in it (indicative of an M1930), or is it tapered from the chamber hexagonal area? Is the rear tangent sight 50-500m or is it 50-1000m?

[Gutter]

I'm basing it off of the fact that it's on consignment from a collector who really has no reason to fake it. I would have to go back in and examine it more thoroughly to ensure that my assumption is correct, but, until then, I'm trying to gather a generic idea for what I really should expect to pay for a real one with mismatched serials and stock of unknown marking. If that number is significantly less that their asking price, I'm not going to waste my time and try to go back immediately.