Which P1?

[Collector71]

I'm looking on GB for a Walther P1, and have been reading about hex pin/no pin, fat slide vs regular one, etc. I was at Cabelas yesterday, and they had a selection of both, but at $429 and showing wear, I passed. My goal is to get as close to unused as possible, and this will be a target/camping pistol--no hot or +P loads.

Does anyone have any insight on this?

--Chris

[SimpleCountryActuary]

Get a P-38. It's all steel. You might want to get a new magazine for it (a P-1 magazine works just fine.) Get only a P-38 made by either Walther or Mauser since the ones made by the other manufacturer were made by slave labor.

Mine has lots of wear and a dark barrel but shoots better than I do. I know because one of my friends tried it and it shot better for him than for me.

Best!

[Milsurp Collector]

If you are getting a P1 with an aluminum frame, get one with the reinforcing pin. The pin was added to deal with cracking of the aluminum frame caused by the steel locking block pounding the aluminum and causing cracks.

[Springfield45]

If you are getting a P1 with an aluminum frame, get one with the reinforcing pin. The pin was added to deal with cracking of the aluminum frame caused by the steel locking block pounding the aluminum and causing cracks.

I second this. All so once you get it do not fire +p ammo in them, aluminum or steel frames.

[CEDaytonaRydr]

I have a P1, and I have to say that it was kind-of a let down when I bought it. I didn't find it to be particularly accurate, it shot okay but is particular about ammo, and it's very bulky when compared to other C&R options. I'd maybe look at getting a Makarov, or CZ82. They're cheaper, more compact and very accurate for small pistols...