Learn me on BP revolvers...

[af240z]

So, if I want to get started with BP revolvers... I am looking at something like these:

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Pietta-Model-1851-Confederate-Navy-44-Caliber-Revolver/740536.uts

or

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Pietta-Model-1851-Navy-Civilian-44-Caliber-Revolver/705443.uts

There's also a starter kit that's good for 30 rounds... but I am a BP newbie, so what should I use (pyrodex?), what are some dos and don'ts of BP world? Any tips are appreciated

[GOEX FFF]

Both are good revolvers. Pietta has a good reputation.
I have several Pietta's and they have all worked perfectly.

There's nothing like real BP, but it's going to be easier to find Pyrodex P rather than real BP FFFg. Plus, there are limits/amounts you can legally have of real BP at one time.


Don'ts:

Don't repeatedly (or at all) dry-fire your revolver as it can cause damage to the nipples.
Don't ever use smokeless powder.
Don't smoke while loading, shooting or handling black powder or black powder substitute.
Always use a powder measure. Don't ever eyeball a charge.
When loading, don't cap/prime your nipples first. Powder-wad-ball or powder-ball-grease your chambers first (make sure the balls are fully seated) then cap when you're ready to shoot.
Don't rush out and buy a cartridge conversion cylinder (for steel frames only). Learn your revolver first and the art of shooting Cap n' Ball.

Do's:

Follow all factory recommended powder charges/weight for your iron.
Keep in mind, Brass framed revolvers require a lighter load than a steel frame.
Do wear eye protection when charging your chambers.
Clean your revolver the same day after shooting. Preferably with hot soapy water. Dry thoroughly, lube and reassemble.
I've also found that CCI #10 caps stay on the Pietta cylinder nipples better than #11's.
Treat all muzzle-loaders just like you would any other firearm.
Do have fun!

[NapalmCheese]

I've been getting a black powder pistol itch too, thanks for the info!

[af240z]

goex: thanks for the info, that's great!

[realgreenfire]

i have a question as well about BP from something that i was told a long time ago and this seems to be a good place to ask.

i was told some number of years ago that brass framed BP revolvers have a tendency to warp and or torque due to repeated heat from firing rounds and to stay away from them and pony up for a steel framed model, does this carry any truth in anyone's personal experience? or does this sound like an issue of overloading/ firing numerous rounds in a very short time period?

to the OP: i found a website the other day with what appears to be some decent deals as well while looking into BP myself, maybe worth checking out

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=14235

[Lead Waster]

Also a newb, but here are some of my newb observations, but take them with a grain of salt since I've NOT SHOT BP YET.

1) The Remington 1858 is a popular BP replica because you can easily take the cylinders off the gun, so in theory, you can have multiple cylinders (uncapped, of course! Only cap on the gun for safety) loaded and ready. Plus if you look, the 1858 has a top strap which probably made is stronger back in 1858. (with modern steel, it probably doesn't make a difference, but I'm not an expert)

2) Cartridge conversion - I ordered one, despite never having fired my 1858 as a BP pistol. The reason being that the only ranges that are convenient to me are indoor ranges and they forbid black powder (I'm guessing that includes BP cartridges!). So in order to be able to shoot the darn thing, I had to get the convertor! Now the price of the pistol & the converter together add up to almost the cost of a used Glock, but I have modern pistols, I want to try BP when I get a chance to get to once of the outdoor ranges.

Oh yeah, Rem 1858, check out at about 55 seconds

[Sousuke]

So, if I want to get started with BP revolvers... I am looking at something like these:

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Pietta-Model-1851-Confederate-Navy-44-Caliber-Revolver/740536.uts

or

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Pietta-Model-1851-Navy-Civilian-44-Caliber-Revolver/705443.uts

There's also a starter kit that's good for 30 rounds... but I am a BP newbie, so what should I use (pyrodex?), what are some dos and don'ts of BP world? Any tips are appreciated

Minor things about the two you posted. The 44 1851 is historically inaccurate (if your in to that sort of thing) You can find synthetics at most stores including cabelas. I buy BP from grafs (I buy 1 pound of their brand + 1 pyrodex can).

There is one CA regulation to be aware of. You are limited to 1 pound of the real stuff and or 20 pounds of the synthetic.

[Eljay]

re: brass frames - they used to be pretty bad but the modern Pietta ones are pretty consistent. Sill, you need to be careful about loads in a way you don't have to with steel. I'd get steel for a first gun.

I also think the 1858's easier for a first timer than the Colt designs (1851, 1860). You'll probably find yourself trying to slam the wedge out with a hammer and punch the first time you clean it and it's pretty nerve wracking. The 1858's more newbie friendly.

To get real BP if you live in the east bay you have to drive a couple of hours out to Jamestown to find a store that carries it. 777 and Pyrodex are relatively easy. I last got it at BassPro but a lot of gun stores that carry reloading supplies carry it, or you can mail order it. You can mail order real BP too but since you can only buy one pound the hazmat eats you up. You need real BP to run a flintlock but the synthetics work very well with the percussion revolvers. Note that 777 powder has no sulfur so it may not smell quite right, but you do get the big cloud of smoke despite it legally being "smokeless" (it's about ignition temperature, not smoke).

[Fjold]

"Learn me on BP revolvers..." WTF, kind of English is that?

i have a question as well about BP from something that i was told a long time ago and this seems to be a good place to ask.

i was told some number of years ago that brass framed BP revolvers have a tendency to warp and or torque due to repeated heat from firing rounds and to stay away from them and pony up for a steel framed model, does this carry any truth in anyone's personal experience? or does this sound like an issue of overloading/ firing numerous rounds in a very short time period?

to the OP: i found a website the other day with what appears to be some decent deals as well while looking into BP myself, maybe worth checking out

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...ducts_id=14235

For brass to heat enough to warp it would burn the skin off of your hands first.

[wellfedirishman]

Here's some info on the Cabelas Pietta 1860:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=374735

And a Uberti Walker 47 (badass as BP revolvers go):

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?106834-Uberti-Walker-1847-range-report

I like the Remington 1858 also, but prefer the Colt style (open top) for ease of cleaning and overall balance in my hand. YMMV.

The Piettas are great value if you get them on sale from Cabelas. All of mine are steel frame, but for the most part I think brass frame would be fine as long as you don't hot-rod it.

I prefer real black powder for these revolvers. It ignites better and is more consistent than Pyrodex, in my experience.

[cruddymutt]

A rule of thumb I use on brass framed revolvers is I load just under half of what the caliber is. I only have one brass frame revolver (1860 Colt) and its in 44 cal so I load 20-22 grains. Its like shooting a 22lr revolver and accurate too.
BP revolvers are a blast (literally) and quite addicting.

[af240z]

Minor things about the two you posted. The 44 1851 is historically inaccurate (if your in to that sort of thing) You can find synthetics at most stores including cabelas. I buy BP from grafs (I buy 1 pound of their brand + 1 pyrodex can).

There is one CA regulation to be aware of. You are limited to 1 pound of the real stuff and or 20 pounds of the synthetic.

I'm planning on using pyrodex, so i think I should be fine. I was aware of the 1 lb law.

Just to clarify: are we talking about the older versions of 1851s, or the current production that Cabelas is selling, that is inaccurate? I've almost decided on a steel frame .44 I linked above.

Fjold: I'm a product of the American education system. What did you expect?

[GOEX FFF]

I'm planning on using pyrodex, so i think I should be fine. I was aware of the 1 lb law.

Just to clarify: are we talking about the older versions of 1851s, or the current production that Cabelas is selling, that is inaccurate? I've almost decided on a steel frame .44 I linked above.

Fjold: I'm a product of the American education system. What did you expect?

I think what Sousuke is talking about, is that historically, the 1851 was in .36 cal. not .44. The 1860 Army was the standard .44 cal revolver of the Civil War.

If you're not going to be a re-enactor where historic accuracy can be paramount, there is nothing wrong with a .44 cal 1851.

[af240z]

That's correct, I'm not planning on reenacting, and I don't care about absolute historical accuracy. Thanks for the clarification!

[GOEX FFF]