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Recommended cleaning supplies for Mosin 91/30

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  • #16
    BigJ
    Veteran Member
    • May 2010
    • 3172

    I'll leave it to the experts to tweak your process, but I will caution you of one thing: if you're going to use water (or a water based cleaner like Windex or Simple Green), you really need to move fast to ensure the water has zero time to interact with the iron and for rust to start forming. If my experience with my M44 is any judge, you quite literally have perhaps 15 or 20 minutes before the metal starts to tarnish. That sounds like a ton of time, but it is not especially considering the number of different parts that will be wet.

    If I'm you, I break the gun down and start blasting away with the WD40 or Ed's Red and a toothbrush/bore brush/patches. If the stock is saturated in cosmo, I would work the black garbage back and sun technique a few times too.

    Hope that helps and i'm looking forward to the experts comments.
    Last edited by BigJ; 10-11-2012, 4:27 PM.
    "This nation will remain the land of the free only so long as it is the home of the brave." - Elmer Davis

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    • #17
      semperfidelis354
      Member
      • Dec 2010
      • 437

      When I clean mine I use the cleaning kit it came with. I of course use a brush and patches and solvents as well but I like to use the field grade stuff, lets me know I can get a good clean with minimal tools.

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      • #18
        Divernhunter
        Calguns Addict
        • May 2010
        • 8753

        I have done about 20 of them so far and when you first get it strip it down and do as you have posted. But you also need to clean the bolt as most of them are packed in the preservitive grease. I soak any small metal parts(and bolt) in a container of solvent. Then I blow them dry with compressed air and soak/brush some more and repeat until clean. I also use brake clean spray on the bolt and compressed air. If you do not have compressed air the brake clean will flush out the solvent/gunk and dry on its own. Then oil the bolt. I use Tri-Flow myself. If you use solvents on the other metal and do not have compressed air then the brake clean works well on removing the solvent.
        A 30cal will reach out and touch them. A 50cal will kick their butt.
        NRA Life Member, NRA certified RSO & Basic Pistol Instructor, Hunter, shooter, reloader
        SCI, Manteca Sportsmen Club, Coalinga Rifle Club, Escalon Sportsmans Club, Waterford Sportsman Club & NAHA Member, Madison Society member

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        • #19
          kouye
          Senior Member
          • May 2012
          • 937

          I really like the Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rods. The 36" can be used from the chamber side with the bolt out so you don't risk damaging the crown.

          I also use Sweets 7.62 on the MN's as it does a good job on the copper fouling.

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          • #20
            MadHappy
            Junior Member
            • Oct 2012
            • 7

            These are the items I ended up purchasing:

            1) M-Pro 7 Bore Cleaning Solvent 8 oz Pump
            2) Remington Rem Oil Gun Oil 1 oz Liquid
            3) Tipton Deluxe 1-Piece Cleaning Rod 22 to 26 Caliber 36" Carbon Fiber 8 x 32 Thread
            4) Pro-Shot Benchrest Quality Rifle Bore Brush 8mm 8 x 32 Thread Bronze
            5) Pro-Shot Rifle Chamber Cleaning Brush 22 to 30 Caliber 8 x 32 Thread Bronze
            6) Pro-Shot Spear Tipped Cleaning Jag 30 Caliber 8 x 32 Thread Brass

            I'm also going to go to home depot and pick up some micro fiber clothes and some Mineral Spirits.

            Let me know if I'm forgetting anything important.

            Thanks!

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