My Mosin

[Josh Smith]

Hi All,

I'm hoping this might help some folks.

I apologize in advance for the screw heads; they were taken apart literally hundreds of times. I've since replaced them and found a proper bit for my torque wrench that will not cause damage to the new ones, even over the long-term!





Front view of the prototype that started my business...


... and the rear.

The action is shimmed and the barrel corked:



I also made some cool things like a two-stage Finn M39-style trigger. Instead of pins, it has bearings

[Josh Smith]

You can barely see a couple bearings under the sear.

I'm not going to risk selling it though. Liability. Dangit.

This rifle is capable of this (or rather, I'm capable of doing this, with my 20/55 sight; I'm sure the rifle's much better):



I had to work for that group, but as long as I have a target I can see, I can do about that. I take coyotes at 200 yards. That's about as far as I can see, uncorrected.

I know what these rifles can do and I love to see folks wring them out. Heck, a Finnish M39 had to have at least a 1.3MOA capability to be accepted into service!

Josh

[NOTABIKER]

good work, now go out and shoot it.

[hylander]

Josh, thats a good lookin' Mosin
Looks like you did a nice crown job on the muzzle.
One thing though, I would try removing the cork from the top handguard, leaving only 4-7lbs of pressure on the bottom of the barrel usually lends to the best accuracy. I'm asumming the rest of the barrel is free floated ?

[Josh Smith]

Josh, thats a good lookin' Mosin
Looks like you did a nice crown job on the muzzle.
One thing though, I would try removing the cork from the top handguard, leaving only 4-7lbs of pressure on the bottom of the barrel usually lends to the best accuracy. I'm asumming the rest of the barrel is free floated ?

Hello,

You assume correctly, and I tried that. It just seems to like the harmonics damped in that particular spot -- incidentally, the same spot the Russian snipers damped with wrapped felt -- but with equal pressure top and bottom.

Other rifles like the upward pressure, you are right. Mine just prefers this, or a full cork bedding on the barrel to make the handguard function as a heavy barrel jacket. But, I'm afraid of really heating the barrel too much. Not sure what kind of metal they used, and there's no real advantage over the partial cork at that particular harmonic node.

Another thing I did, which you may be able to see if you look closely (and if not, I'll take a picture if you'd like) is to match the rear handguard for elevation with the front. This allows a gap on either side so that air can circulate completely around the barrel. It will get just so hot, but not any hotter as it would without an opening in the insulating, sealed handguard.

Regards,

Josh

[Cowboy T]

Josh, thanks for the Mosin tips. Got a "beater" Mosin--which isn't actually a beater, it's in good shape--that I'll probably try out some of your tricks on.

[hylander]

Hello,

You assume correctly, and I tried that. It just seems to like the harmonics damped in that particular spot -- incidentally, the same spot the Russian snipers damped with wrapped felt -- but with equal pressure top and bottom.

Other rifles like the upward pressure, you are right. Mine just prefers this, or a full cork bedding on the barrel to make the handguard function as a heavy barrel jacket. But, I'm afraid of really heating the barrel too much. Not sure what kind of metal they used, and there's no real advantage over the partial cork at that particular harmonic node.

Another thing I did, which you may be able to see if you look closely (and if not, I'll take a picture if you'd like) is to match the rear handguard for elevation with the front. This allows a gap on either side so that air can circulate completely around the barrel. It will get just so hot, but not any hotter as it would without an opening in the insulating, sealed handguard.

Regards,

Josh

Yep, every rifle is a little different, you found what works for this one.
I used a cardboard box top for my Mauser pressure point, now I need to find some cork or gasket material of the same thickness to replace it with.

[RED VASQUEZ]

Nice rifle, gives me ideas on things I can do to improve mine. Sucks that you may not produce your trigger as I really enjoy the one I have. Its really not that difficult to check the sear for positive engagement but I agree that an idiot with a lawyer can ruin this for everyone.

[Josh Smith]

Nice rifle, gives me ideas on things I can do to improve mine. Sucks that you may not produce your trigger as I really enjoy the one I have. Its really not that difficult to check the sear for positive engagement but I agree that an idiot with a lawyer can ruin this for everyone.

I do still make them for people I trust to be safe. I just won't be making them for Joe Blow from Kokomo any longer.

Still, there's a liability statement which effectively says that if you're installing this trigger, you're not suing:

Purchaser Agreement/Standard DisclaimerAs always, I'm available to answer questions via email and help you if you get stuck. Most installations will not require any sear modification, but I do highly recommend it, even on rifles that do not use modified triggers! The pull is just that much better.

I think that covers my butt, along with the LLC.

Not a fan of going to court for any reason. I will, and have, but I hate it. Been on the receiving end (no-billed or whatever in the initial hearing; no actual trial there; judge figured self-defense because the guy shot at me first, dammit!) and on the receiving end (I went a couple times as evidence/witness for the prosecution. It got old real fast).

If I never see the inside of another courtroom it will be too soon.

Anyway, that's the disclaimer, and if I have faith in a person, I will sell him a trigger.

I really need to get an old Mosin bolt and receiver, though. I own one Mosin and I take it down to do the final fitting.

Regards,

Josh