School me on Enfields

[smith629]

I'm thinking about getting an old wwI/wwII bolt-action rifle and trying to decide between the mosin, enfield, etc. Right now I'm leaning to the Enfield because well, one of my buddies has a Mosin already and I have to be different

Seriously though, I like the fact that it has less recoil (the .303), slick/fast bolt design, and has a reputation as an accurate rifle.

For an enthusiast who is just getting started, what model should I look for, and more importantly, what should I LOOK OUT for? I understand these guns go for a few hundred bucks and may vary in pricing according to collectability. I'm more looking for something to just shoot, but be reliable and accurate with irons to 300-400 yards.

[MMA]

Go Freedom, Go Enfield!!

ignore all the Nazi/Communist stuff.



Start with a No 4 Mk 1, can't beat it.

Simpson's has a few. Good place to buy.

[Vita Brevis]

As MMA said, you can't beat the No. 4 Mk I. As far as Enfields go, that model is by far the most abundant and will be your most economical choice (I just picked up a pretty nice one for $275). The biggest thing to look out for, IMO, is headspace (as with any milsurp rifle). These rifles were designed with wide open tolerances so that they could be manufactured quickly in massive quantity and function properly in a wide variety of conditions. Before looking around for a rifle, you may want to pick up at least a "field" gage so you can check headspace in the shop (you could get a "no-go" gage too, but most wartime Enfields won't pass this test, in my experience, so save the cash). I got a set from these guys. They ship quickly and it seems to be a small mom n' pop company worth supporting. If you find a rifle that you really want that fails the test, never fear, all is not lost! Bolt heads are insanely simple to change out on Enfields (unscrew the bad one, screw in the good one). They're numbered 0 to 3 (?), with 0 being the shortest, and 3 being the longest.

Alright, I'm late for work, but there's pages and pages of info that I could type on markings and whatnot if I weren't. I'm sure there are plenty of Calgunners who will be happy to fill in those blanks though.

Also, take my post with a grain of salt. It's early, and my brain isn't quite working at full speed yet.

[littlejake]

I think the bolt heads are numbered 1 to 4 -- but, you get the idea. Gun Parts Corp still has some Bolt heads in stock. The 303 is a rimmed cartridge and headspace is usually within safe tolerance; but should be checked on any mil surp rifle.

The number 4 is a great -- my personal favorite is the number 5 jungle carbine. It's a real bruiser. Shortened, lightened version of the number 4 (there are some fakes out there.)

I have Stratton's book and can help with markings.

[DGD73]

Be aware that the ammo is not really cheap, especially compared to surplus 7.62 x 54R, although if you reload, it could offset the price some. I just picked up a No. 4 Mk 1 last month because I've really wanted a Lee Enfield for quite a while now (I've had a Mosin for a couple of years now). Got to shoot it July 4 and I enjoyed it. My rifle has the date and manufacturer info stamped on the rear left hand side of the receiver. The serial # is on the left side on the metal band that holds the rear stock and on the bolt it is on the handle on the back side. I guess some magazines have a serial #, but mine did not.

[littlejake]

Many WWII era No4 and 5's have their SN and other data hand scribed on the left side of the receiver. These markings are sometimes restamped on the receiver ring before they were imported. The two main factories were BSA Shirley and Fazerkely.

Import marks may also appear there or on the No5 rolled on the barrel. BNP is typically stamped on them meaning British Nitro Proofed -- i.e. good for smokeless powder. I just bought some commercial 303 ammo and it's priced comparable to commercial .30-'06 ammo.

These rifles were used throughout the British Empire; and I wouldn't be surprised if they were still being used in former colonies like Kenya.

Unique to the Enfield action -- it cocks on closing.

[Vita Brevis]

What DGD73 says about the ammunition is true. It isn't cheap, but it probably won't break the bank either. 20 rounds of S&B soft points can be had for about $19 I think at Sportsman's Warehouse. I've seen prvi online for a few bucks cheaper. Reloading seems to be the way to go, though. Due to the increased magazine size and the sheer enjoyment that comes from shooting these rifles, though, you may want to start selling your possessions now to stock up on .303 British.

[Paulie Lugnuts]

Be warned, collecting LE can get addictive because there are so many variations. Even though they were mass produced, you can tell there's more craftmanship than in your typical Mosin. Their condition varies a great deal. Some are pretty beat, some are like new. I say pay a little more for a nicer one.
Occasionally you run into Indian surplus .303, but expect to pay more more ammo. Here's a pic of ours.

[Mutant]

Good barrel, no pitting, sharp lands, etc. Without that, no amount of fussing will make it shoot good.

[Vette6T8]

Ishapore 2A, Built on the same patterns as the No1Mk3 but chambered in 7.62x51. Different and well off the beaten path of mosin and mauser: Great if you already have a .308/7.62x51.

[Divernhunter]

I have a #4MKI and a #1MKIII that I have for sale. They are extras and have not been fired by myself. Decided to sell to help fund my Africa trip. Also have Jap(Type38 & Type99)/Mauser(Turk & Czech Bruno) and Russian(M44 & 91/30) rifles to sell for the same reason. PM me if interested.

[dfletcher]

I went the "fake sniper" route and bought a No4 Mk2 and added the repro kit from Numrich. Having the rifle properly drilled & tapped was a bit of a chore but it was done perfectly and I'm happy as heck with the result.

The Enfield is a big, heavy rifle and except for the carbine pretty pleasant to shoot. They can be a challenge to shoot accurately due to all that wood around the barrel. I'm not into it that much but accurizing an Enfield is a bit of an art form from what I read.

[smith629]

Thanks for all the terrific info guys! Keep it coming!

I understand the ammo is a bit expensive, but I won't be shooting thousands of rounds through this gun like my AR so I'm ok with that.

A few questions:

1. Can I measure head space with a feeler guage (like I do measuring cylinder gap for revolvers)

2. Were any of the old Enfields scoped? What type of original scopes were used? I would like to learn to shoot it irons first but it sure would be cool to scope it eventually.

3. Is any particular plant of manufacture or year of manufacture more or less reliable/accurate?

Paulie, what types of Enfields are those pictured? Pretty nice collection you have there!

[Paulie Lugnuts]

The types of LE are listed in my sig. The original sniper T4s were scoped, but they are pretty hard to come by.

[eighteenninetytwo]

Start with a No.4 Mk 1 or 2. Look for bolt serial matching the receiver first and foremost with good condition and good barrle condition. That's the best indication of safety AND collectability. Look for post WW2 dates or markings like 'FTR 53' which show being brought back to as issued specs in 1953. More likely to received less of a beating in post war years. Then just be prepared to get more as they do breed. I have a barrel gauge for these if you're in the bay area. As regards scoped, sniper versions are V pricey. Start with iron sights and catch the disease fully before you take that step as it is a slippery slope to an empty bank account. Good luck. PS www.bdlltd.com brian dick over in Carolina is the foremost enfiled dealer in the USA. Not cheap but you'll get a good one and he'll pick it out for you.