remove.

[kajvid]

Remove

[Sailormilan2]

First of all, Garands run on grease, not oil. Major parts need to be greased. If is slides, grease it, if it pivots, oil it. Any good grade of grease will work. I use moly wheel bearing grease.
With a Garand made in May of 1944, it might have made it to Europe before the end of the war. But figure a lag time of 3 - 6 months. If issued to new trainies, going through boot camp, being shipped over seas, then being shipped to a front line.
As for matching numbers. Each part has a number, though the smaller numbers will not have them marked on the part. If it is "original" they should all be marked with a Winchester mark, which on many of the smaller parts is simply a punch mark. For example, a Winchester front sight will have a punch mark, usually located on the right side, towards the front of the sight.
Also, certain Winchester parts have specific identifiers that are easy to spot once you know what to look for.
The barrel should have the part number(D35448 for WW2 barrels and 6535448 for Post war barrels). There will also be a date . For example. S-A-4-42. S-A being the manufacturor(Springfield), and the 4-42 being the barrel date. Sometimes the numbers (usually earlier barrels) are under the handgaurd, which must be removed to see the numbers. But most are visable just by pulling the op rod back.
Here is a diagram of where to grease a Garand.

[renardsubtil]

Sorry I don't have my Garand book here with me to comment on the numbers but I have a few items you might consider below.

Grease is supposed to be a lil better than oil from what I understand, I've never oiled my Garand and I've only used grease.

There's some debate about using commercial .30-06 ammo, something about the pressures can screwed up the op rod, you might want to search up on this and decide if that's something you want to try - personally I just stick with surplus since it's way less expensive.

Read up on "Garand thumb", it'll save you a bloody thumb lol!

Have fun, it's a great piece of history and it sounds like yours will be a nice shooter.



PS
Did you need a set of bandoliers? I have 18 or so clips and two cloth holders I can sell you if you need them just PM me.

[Cessnapilot89]

Hey Dave,

Check out Scott Duff's books on the Garand. It will tell you what lot numbers al of the parts are supposed to have for that serial number of Winchester. Does it still have the original barrel? On the side by the operating rod there should be a manufacture mark, a date, and some lot numbers. As to where it went, that is a really hard one to determine. Going by that you said it was turned in with a Walther could mean that it went to the ETO, but could also mean that the guy was a collector.

What model of Walther was it and is it still for sale?

[Flintlock Tom]

Thank you for rescuing a historical firearm from the scrap-heap.
Before shooting it you might want to check "head-space" to make sure it goes into battery correctly.
Some photos of it would be nice. Any markings on the stock? Is it import marked? Usually on the barrel just behind the front sight.
The Garand only has one serial number so "matching numbers" doesn't apply. However, many of the main parts have "Drawing Numbers" which can narrow it down to a manufacturing "period" and show if the parts "could nave been original."

[OldShooter32]

With M1 and M1A's the simple rule is if there is white metal, put a touch of grease there. Don't forget under the operating rod where it (sometimes) rubs the barrel forward of the bullet guide.

[Cessnapilot89]

Wound up with a Pre-war PPK through a similar scenario. Kajvid, where do you usually shoot? Some buddies of mine are trying to get a WW2 match going on soon.

[littlejake]

Thanks, guys.

I am pulling out the grease as we speak. I had used good ole' Gun Butter. The ammo I have is Garand safe. I pulled the rod back and found 3 S-A 5 45 on the barrel. Bottom of the gun near the safety I see 46025-3-SA.

The Walther was a P38 looking thing minus grips. It was sold to a LEO that collects. I hate to tell you this but we sold it to him for $150. It had eagles with swastikas. I see some strange stuff in my line of work.

Well, you have some Springfield Armory parts in the mix.

[pro-nra]

Congratulation on your WRA M1. Lots of WRA along with WWII SA did not make it back to CONUS because of either battle casualty or was kept overseas by our allies or enemies.

Sounds like you have a typical mixmaster like most WWII M1s. Looks like the bolt and the OR is a different shade than the receiver so my guess is that it is also an SA? You will need to take pics of the left side of the stock above the grip for the cartouche. The GC lock looks a little funny to me as it should not have a flat side. Maybe you got lucky and it if for a gas trap rifle which is worth some $$$.

[Squid]

"Police Turn In" as in where PD offers $100/gun or tickets for citizens to turn in

guns to reduce ghetto violence????

I thought all those guns were destroyed, on principle, as "bad things".

I was wondering WTF would happen if someone turned in a valuable gun grandpa left behind.

Are you saying the cops are reselling these guns "back into the community"?

[Kodemonkey]

guns to reduce ghetto violence????

I thought all those guns were destroyed, on principle, as "bad things".

I was wondering WTF would happen if someone turned in a valuable gun grandpa left behind.

Are you saying the cops are reselling these guns "back into the community"?

Curious about that myself. Although lots of people turn in old guns to police stations. Usually when a husband dies. The smart widows take them to a gun store. That's how my wife got a series 70 1911. Sorry someone had to die for her to get it, but it went to a good home.

[MudCamper]

Just FYI. I only use oil. I've never used grease. My Garand works fine. It's a personal preference thing.

[Flintlock Tom]

The Gas Cylinder has a "loop" at the back that none of mine have. Anyone know what it is?

[Sailormilan2]

Very nice post war Birch stock. Op rod looks like a curved sided op rod which was used up to mid war. There should be numbers underneath it. Dismount it, and check the numbers stamped underneath, though it doesn't appear to be a Win made op rod. Most of those made during WW2 had a slanted front.
Post war rear sight knobs. Winter safety, designed for use with gloves. Wartime milled trigger guard.
There should be numbers on the verticle side of the triggerhousing. As well has on the hammer face.
It appears to have been through a rebuild at least once. But, over all, a very nice looking Garand.
Handgaurds appear to be walnut, which was standard during WW2. Birch showed up later around Korea.

[Flyin Brian]

The Gas Cylinder has a "loop" at the back that none of mine have. Anyone know what it is?

It's for the stacking swivel. Are you sure yours don't have it?