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Ohs nos body knows the trouble ive seen
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dark bore?
slamfire,
How does the bore shoot? If it shoots fine, why worry about the darkness. A couple of my rifle bores are dark and ugly and shoot great. Why try and fix a problem if it ain't broke.
Peter in CA -
If it's not etched they you can always try the diy electrolysis method with an old phone charger, brass rod, and non sudsing ammonia concoction. It works great IMO, so people caution about using it on chromed bores, but out of the many people I've read about they've had no issues at all.
I did it on a SKS with a chrome bore and the amount of crud that comes out is amazing.NRA Life Member
Vet since 1978
"Don't bother me with facts, Son. I've already made up my mind." -Foghorn LeghornComment
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Agreed, use an electronic bore cleaner.
Or shoot it a bunch, then clean it immediately after.Originally posted by shollingSomeone else's lack of foresight and planning is no reason for you to take less than the current market value despite all of the wailing and crying for 2nd Amendment socialism and welfare pricing.Comment
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Electro bore cleaner is awesome. Im still too scared to use it on my chrome bores though.sigpic
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕComment
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I still don't get how this works, seems like it would remove some plating in a chrome bore, or material from a steel bore?Last edited by Justintoxicated; 04-01-2011, 2:44 PM.Comment
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It definatly removes copper from a bore. The rod I use has already started to get copper color to it. I generally electro bore newly aquired rifles on their initial cleaning. I have read not to do it for very long, maybe 10 minutes as it can etch a bore. I generally run my electro bore for no more than 5 minutes just to be safe.
I have always been told NEVER to use Windex on chrome parts because the ammonia can weaken and thin the chrome plating. I have a drag Banshee and everything (almost) is chromed. Because of that is why I dont do my chrome bores. I use Hoppes and ammonia in my electro bore.
Just FYI, I picked up a 1916 M91 Sestroryetsk about a month ago. The bore was trash, dark and nasty and I thought it was going to be garbage. I electro bored it twice and it shines really nice now. Its actually a really good shooter as well.sigpic
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕComment
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Nice, I have a Cub Banshee as well. Some chrome but not all out. Does the electronic cleaning setup need to be home made, if not where is a good place to purchase one?It definatly removes copper from a bore. The rod I use has already started to get copper color to it. I generally electro bore newly aquired rifles on their initial cleaning. I have read not to do it for very long, maybe 10 minutes as it can etch a bore. I generally run my electro bore for no more than 5 minutes just to be safe.
I have always been told NEVER to use Windex on chrome parts because the ammonia can weaken and thin the chrome plating. I have a drag Banshee and everything (almost) is chromed. Because of that is why I dont do my chrome bores. I use Hoppes and ammonia in my electro bore.
Just FYI, I picked up a 1916 M91 Sestroryetsk about a month ago. The bore was trash, dark and nasty and I thought it was going to be garbage. I electro bored it twice and it shines really nice now. Its actually a really good shooter as well.Comment
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What i use is a 2 D cell holder with alligator clips, 2 rubber tapered plugs, a rubber washer, and a long thin steel rod.
Plug the breech with the 2 tapered rubber plugs. Put the rod down the bore. Put a rubber washer on the rod and push it down just past the muzzle. You dont want the rod to touch the bore or it wont work. I use a turkey injector and put in a little Hoppes and then ammonia. Hook the negative to the rod and the positive to the front sight and let it go for 5-10 minutes. You know its working when the mixture starts to fuzz. I recommend taking the action out of the stock, Im sure it wouldnt be good for the wood.
My Banshee is actually mild. I'm running stock cc but have port work, milled carbs, etc, etc. I havent ran it in a couple years (injury) but its taken 426 Trinity motors up Comp at Dumont. Its really more of a duner now (+2 arms, triple rates, etc)sigpic
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕComment
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Some dark bores will clean up and some just will not. In my experience, a dark bore does not necessarily make a poor shooter. You can try brake cleaner, however i have my doubts that it will be effective. A word of caution... if you use brake cleaner take your action out of the stock as it will destroy your finish in an instant (in addition to brain cells)
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Good stuff, I might just try this yet, although the more in my nagant isn't dark at all..What i use is a 2 D cell holder with alligator clips, 2 rubber tapered plugs, a rubber washer, and a long thin steel rod.
Plug the breech with the 2 tapered rubber plugs. Put the rod down the bore. Put a rubber washer on the rod and push it down just past the muzzle. You dont want the rod to touch the bore or it wont work. I use a turkey injector and put in a little Hoppes and then ammonia. Hook the negative to the rod and the positive to the front sight and let it go for 5-10 minutes. You know its working when the mixture starts to fuzz. I recommend taking the action out of the stock, Im sure it wouldnt be good for the wood.
My Banshee is actually mild. I'm running stock cc but have port work, milled carbs, etc, etc. I havent ran it in a couple years (injury) but its taken 426 Trinity motors up Comp at Dumont. Its really more of a duner now (+2 arms, triple rates, etc)
I need to get out to dumont again, that place was fun. Bit of a drive though. Mines a duner for sure, I have trouble at the drags launching to keep the front end down. I only have a +2 swing arm...Bike was ported my Nate McCoy though so the cub is certainly fast and pretty dialed in too, burns through a tank of gas like no other heh...good stuff. Only got to the desert once this season, for new years and hardly even got to ride, what a waste of a season pass..Comment
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