Need help

[dpriddy]

I'm picking up a M44(Izhevsk arsenal dated 1945) this weekend and I don't know very much about headspacing . I know, normally I would do all my homework before pulling the trigger (no pun intended) but i couldn't pass up the great deal.

Its all mismatched numbers, with slight pitting on the bolt. Is there anyone in the OC that can help me out. Im sure I could call up a gunsmith but i trust all of you more.

Everyone on here has been very helpful in the past. I want to thank everyone. CALGUNS ROCKS!!!!

[dmax11]

you could always do the tie it to a tree and pull the string test

if the numbers are all truly miss matching then yeah you better get the head space checked out. now if the bolt and receiver are simply force matched by the arsenal when it was refurbed then you should be fine from what i've read.

i got my 91/30 at big 5 and the bolt was original matching to the receiver but i have force matched floor plate and butt plate on it, i was somewhat concerned about taking that first shot but i decided to give it a try anyways with some milsurp ammo and so far i've run about 90 rounds through it in the past few weeks of both steel cased milsurp and russian made ammo as well as some brass cased winchester. the winchester would be slightly sticky to extract but not by much. all casings look good so i'm confident mine is good to go

[Milsurp Collector]

To measure headspace you need headspace gauges. The gauges are specific for a certain cartridge, so you would need gauges for 7.62x54r. The three types of gauges are GO, NO GO, and FIELD. As long as the bolt closes completely on a GO gauge and doesn't close on the FIELD gauge the rifle's headspace is acceptable. Read more at http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting...pace/index.asp

[CDFingers]

The MN headspaces from the cartridge rim. It is highly unlikely you'll encounter any headspace problems.

It is true that the best way to measure headspace is to use gauges, yet in the MN this is rarely necessary--they are mondo robust.

But if you can't close the bolt on a live round, it's not likely you'll try to shoot it. So there's a built in protection there.

The safest way to fire an unchecked MN is to put the butt into an old tire, tie a string to the trigger and pop off a round from 20 meters away. Examine the brass. If no signs of pressure or blackening near the base, you're good to go.

I've never done that tire thing. Instead, I just drape my shooting coat over the breech area and user-end of the bolt, shoulder the weapon, and touch off a round aimed about 25 meters into the ground in front of me--after all, you're only trying to dodge hot gasses from a pierced primer or extreme blowback or such things. The coat would protect me from that.

I've never encountered any troubles with these first time shots.

All MN's I've ever seen have been OK on headspace--there were, however, millions and millions made, and, most unfortunately, I've not yet handled them all. ;-)

Others should chime in with better, but not likely cheaper, approaches.

CDFingers

[hypnoman]

MN headspace . . .

I'm picking up a M44(Izhevsk arsenal dated 1945) this weekend and I don't know very much about headspacing . I know, normally I would do all my homework before pulling the trigger (no pun intended) but i couldn't pass up the great deal.

Its all mismatched numbers, with slight pitting on the bolt. Is there anyone in the OC that can help me out. Im sure I could call up a gunsmith but i trust all of you more.

Everyone on here has been very helpful in the past. I want to thank everyone. CALGUNS ROCKS!!!!

I agree with CDfingers . . .

I took forever to shoot the first MN m44 I ever bought . . . I can not guarantee ever MN is safe, but I've shot a lot of them since . . . all are fine. Some are outstanding.

Hope you got a good one! Maybe I'll see you this Sat. in Montclair if you're meeting between 1 - 2pm!! I'm picking up the barrelled action from Steveo.

[hypnoman]

safe testing . . .

The MN headspaces from the cartridge rim. It is highly unlikely you'll encounter any headspace problems.

It is true that the best way to measure headspace is to use gauges, yet in the MN this is rarely necessary--they are mondo robust.

But if you can't close the bolt on a live round, it's not likely you'll try to shoot it. So there's a built in protection there.

The safest way to fire an unchecked MN is to put the butt into an old tire, tie a string to the trigger and pop off a round from 20 meters away. Examine the brass. If no signs of pressure or blackening near the base, you're good to go.

I've never done that tire thing. Instead, I just drape my shooting coat over the breech area and user-end of the bolt, shoulder the weapon, and touch off a round aimed about 25 meters into the ground in front of me--after all, you're only trying to dodge hot gasses from a pierced primer or extreme blowback or such things. The coat would protect me from that.

I've never encountered any troubles with these first time shots.

All MN's I've ever seen have been OK on headspace--there were, however, millions and millions made, and, most unfortunately, I've not yet handled them all. ;-)

Others should chime in with better, but not likely cheaper, approaches.

CDFingers

I have heard about the tire, too, but never could get up the courage to roll a tire onto the rifle range.

I'm thinking I might bring a motorcycle helmet, put on earplugs, slip on my helmet for complete head protection, drape the chamber area with a towel . . . and then fire!

. . . but headspace gauges are cheap (affordable) enough . . .

[Flyin Brian]

The only gauge you really need is the field gauge. If it doesn't close on the field gauge, it's safe to shoot as far as headspacing is concerned.

[dpriddy]

Thanks guys. Do people really use the string theory to test their MN. It just seams a little funny, maybe something you would see on a cartoon. I might be able to get my hands on a field gauge. What else should I check before its first range trip , barrel bulge ect.
hypnoman, I plan on meeting steveo around 1, maybe see you there.

[hypnoman]

ask Steveo

Thanks guys. Do people really use the string theory to test their MN. It just seams a little funny, maybe something you would see on a cartoon. I might be able to get my hands on a field gauge. What else should I check before its first range trip , barrel bulge ect.
hypnoman, I plan on meeting steveo around 1, maybe see you there.

I plan on asking him a little about the action, has he shot it, how was it for him.
He mentioned they were no safe queens, so maybe he can give us a little history of his collection from his experience.

Look forward to meet you Sat!!

[gunboat]

Cut a shim from a business card , put it behind a new case, if the bolt closes you have too much headspace.
If your extractor holds the case back against the bolt face, the case will be fire formed to your chamber and reloadable for your chamber - neck sizing only of course.
I certainly don't want to minimize this situation but it is often over analyzed.

[dpriddy]

I asked him the same ?'s about the #3 rifle. He said he never shot it and didn't check the headspacing. Stoked on the price thou!!

[Flyin Brian]

Thanks guys. Do people really use the string theory to test their MN. It just seams a little funny, maybe something you would see on a cartoon. I might be able to get my hands on a field gauge. What else should I check before its first range trip , barrel bulge ect.
hypnoman, I plan on meeting steveo around 1, maybe see you there.

Whenever I get a new Mosin, I frantically pull it apart trying to find some magical stamps on the bottom of the receiver... if you can imagine a 5 year old on Christmas morning, that's how I usually do it except I'm holding a screwdriver and my pajamas are camouflage :P

I probably wouldn't be as excited to pull apart an M-44 since you won't be finding an antique receiver, but it's still fun to see what year the tang date is. I always pull the trigger and sear, clean the parts and put a little grease on the friction points. I usually hold the sear straight with a small screwdriver as I tighten the sear screw so it's not rubbing against one side of the trigger. Pull apart the bolt and make sure it's clean and lubed. Then when you put the bolt back together put a little grease on the friction points. I would recommend checking the firing pin protrusion, just google it or look on you-tube, it will prevent punctured primers which are no fun.

When you put the action back in the stock, put the 2 screws in finger tight and then tap the butt of the stock on the ground a few times to seat the action to the rear of the stock, then tighten them up pretty good. Some guys say to tighten one more than the other, and which one varies among tighteners who knows, try it and see how it shoots with one tighter or not. Check the recoil bolt in the stock and make sure it's tight. It takes a special tool to tighten it, but in a pinch you can stick a small drill bit in one of the holes and then carefully tap the base of the drill bit with a dull chisel or screwdriver in the clockwise direction.

Also check the bore, make sure it's clear of obstructions and maybe run a brush through it and a few patches. That's about all I can think of.