Inland M1 Carbine, mostly correct?

[vandal]

Bought this M1C and probably won't keep it because it isn't totally reliable.

But it seems to have mostly the correct parts.

Inland M1 Carbine SN 5231580

Import marks: Davidsons, Greenboro, NC

Inland Receiver
Inland 5-44 Barrel
Stock has cartouche and a stamped S/N that matches receiver
Inland trigger housing
Jiffy Metal barrel band/Bayo lug
Inland "PI Underlined" operating slide
H1 hammer, H1 rear sight
AOB Bolt
Don't have a muzzle gauge but bore is shiny and accuracy is good.
Has a problem with not ejecting spent cases occasionally.

Ballpark value?

[NaughtyMonkey]

Well there were more Inlands then any other Carbine, but since its mostly matching thats good. I'd say maybe around $600 - $1,000?, my opinion, especially if you say it has issues.
The import marks take away from the value too. Also based on that serial number I'm pretty sure its a late carbine.

[Milsurp Collector]

Bought this M1C and probably won't keep it because it isn't totally reliable. Has a problem with not ejecting spent cases occasionally.


Import marks: Davidsons, Greenboro, NC

Stock has cartouche and a stamped S/N that matches receiver

Are you using Aguila ammo? I've had the same problem with that ammo. If you are using Aguila it probably isn't the carbine's fault.

The import mark and serial number stamped in the stock means it was probably imported from Israel. M1 Carbines continue to be used in Israel.

[vandal]

FTE/stovepipe problems are with WWB, MagTech, and Remington UMC (yellow and green box). I replaced the ejector, may try the extractor next.

Found the piston castle nut was loose, cleaned and loctited it and it is staying tight although the malfunctions continue.

Cleaned the chamber very well.

I also have access to another M1C and may try the bolt from that one.

I have only run the Korean rebuild mags, but the gun doesn't seem to have any trouble feeding, just ejecting. I went through 90 rounds/6 mags and had 5 FTEs. Not cheap to troubleshoot this way.

[Milsurp Collector]

Try taking your bolt apart and cleaning its parts thoroughly, especially the extractor spring and plunger and the hole it sits in. If you have done that already I suggest replacing these parts:

http://m1garandparts.com/M1carbine.htm

C12 Recoil spring $5.00
C24 Extractor. Brand new USGI from wrapper. $15.95
C25 Extractor spring & plunger $5.00

[Sailormilan2]

Make sure you are using USGI springs, especially the recoil spring and the hammer spring. Use of extra power Wolf springs can cause symptoms similar to yours. Personal experience speaking here.

[vandal]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I did tear down and thoroughly clean the bolt.

I'll pop in the USGI extractor I bought before trying it out again this weekend (for the last time, after this I will give up.) The current extractor looks like it has slightly more rim grip surface than the replacement.

I did buy Wolf springs but didn't install them. I compared the current hammer spring length and coil count to a working National Postal Meter M1 and they are identical. Recoil springs are the same length as well.

[Milsurp Collector]

Also, try using oil like Break-Free CLP instead of grease to lube the bolt and operating slide.

[vandal]

Having replaced both the extractor, ejector, and ejector spring I took it out today and continued to have malfunctions.

I borrowed a bolt from a known-good National Postal Meter M1 carbine and put it in the Inland. Inland then ran like a top. I guess I"ll be buying a new bolt.

[Milsurp Collector]

If you want a "correct" bolt you need a round bolt marked AI or OI (looks like IO).

[vandal]

AI 3 OK, or just AI?

[Milsurp Collector]

The 3 or any other number is fine.

[vandal]

Update -- replaced the AOB bolt with an Inland bolt and the gun runs great now.