CMP Carbine Stock

[FinweElensar]

So I bought this stock, finished in linseed oil, and looks exactly like the one on THIS CMP website.

What is this round thing for? It doesn't sit flush to the stock. Can I hammer it in safely?



I paid $100 for it. It's kinda dark, and it looks dull. Do I have to apply something else to make it shiny,lighter in color, like a sealer or something? BLO/Tung oil?


This is a $200 stock from DGR for comparison:


I couldn't post at the CMP forums yet, just registered.

[ciscollector]

I usually put many (6 or more) coats of boiled linseed oil on the CMP stocks and then finish up with "gunny paste" (BLO/turpentine/beeswax combo, do a search on CMP forums). Most people recommend many coats of BLO only, one a day for many days in a row. Do a search on CMP forums for "stock finish" and you will get tons of peoples preferences.

I would expect the nut to tighten up more flush when you tighten up your recoil plate bolt.

[NRAhighpowershooter]

The 'round thing' is the nut for the recoil plate

[Rem1492]

you could finish it with Tung. Tung is a resin like clear coat that is a bit red in tint. It takes a few coats and takes a day or two to dry for each coat. Lightly with 1000 sand paper buff between coats to build up a good layer. Watch out for globs that accumulate on corners and sharp areas where the stock meets other parts as when it dries it again, is a thick resin like substance, keep it thin on each coat and watch for build ups.

I like Tung oil

[metalhead357]

you could finish it with Tung. Tung is a resin like clear coat that is a bit red in tint. It takes a few coats and takes a day or two to dry for each coat. Lightly with 1000 sand paper buff between coats to build up a good layer. Watch out for globs that accumulate on corners and sharp areas where the stock meets other parts as when it dries it again, is a thick resin like substance, keep it thin on each coat and watch for build ups.

I like Tung oil

I'd second the tung; everything I've read is that it is a 'harder' finish when done and seals slightly better than BLO. I'm NOTopposedto BLO and do use it-- just the preferences/references to a lot of the earlier grands being done in Tung had me from the get-go.

Note; I start with a 50/50 mix of TO and Miniral spirits and actually WET SAND with 400 through to 1200 with the Tung Oil/Mineral as the 'wet'. With each increase in grit towards 1200 I decrese the amount of mineral oil until I've done 1 or two sandings with 100% tung and 1200; makes for a VERY smooth and hard surface.

PS> go easy with the ruffer grits if you're not shaping!!!!!!!!

[FinweElensar]

Can I get Tung/BLO at Home Depot?

[Technical Ted]

Can I get Tung/BLO at Home Depot?

Something about that sentence sound just plain dirty.

Those guys standing on the street in front of Home Depot are there for construction and landscape work.

[metalhead357]

Yes, both BLO and Tung...BUT READ THE LABEL;

its best if you stay away from ones that contain "japan hardner" or other polimiers/polimers (sp?). Try to get/find 100% pure....but the other stuff will work.

As said I use mineral spirits; some I've read used denatured alcohol to cut the stuff....I aint tried that route.

[metalhead357]

Ok... NOT to steal the show but I got two pm's asking stuffs; heres what my latest one looks like....it IS quite red; USed Chestnut ridge "walnut" in a couple coats then TEAK OIL cut 50/50 with mineral spirits then a 75/25 then straight TEAK for the last coat.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?p=540727#post540727

[ciscollector]

Wow, that looks great. I have used Chestnut Ridge before on old used beech stocks that I have refinished but never thought to use it on a new CMP stock. Thanks for the photo and idea.

[otteray]

Ace Hardware, in Santa Cruz (Westside Hardware) has Tru-Tone Tung Oil (Behr.)
Looks great on my SKS