My CMP Select Garand Arrived Today (w/ pics)

[DougJ]

Nice rifle! Milsurp Collector has got the straight dope, my Dad has told me about using Tung and Linseed oil during his time in the Service, and he has done it that way all his life.

I have my Dads Garand, but he carried a M-1 Carbine most of his time in Europe during the war. I need to see what CMP has in Carbines...

My Dad will hopefully turn 91 this year, his health is failing and I'm not sure how long he will be with us. I should have done this long ago so I could be sure to get one to show him.

[powaybob]

First Glitch

I can't get the gas cylinder lock to move. The plug came out easily but this does not want to move. I don't want to force it and break something. Any suggestions?

[Milsurp Collector]

There is actually a wrench designed for that



It might be stuck from dried cosmoline. You could try heat or some kind of solvent. You could try channel locks if you put cardboard over the teeth on the jaws and wrap the jaws and cardboard with tape.

On the other hand, it isn't essential to remove the gas cylinder. It does make it easier to remove the op rod if the gas cylinder is off.

You don't have to completely disassemble the rifle. For example, there is no need to remove and metal from the stock or handguards. I rarely disassemble the bullet guide/follower/op rod catch assembly. Usually field stripping is enough to do whatever cleaning you need to do. Once you get it cleaned and lubed you shouldn't even take the stock off if you don't have to. If you remove the stock it will often take several clips for everything to settle in so the rifle will shoot consistently again.

[powaybob]

Never mind. WD-40, some time, a little heat, and a lot of torque finally broke it free.

[powaybob]

The gas lock is really tight to get back on.
I noticed as I was disassembling/assembling the rifle that it is a mixture of SA, HRA, and WRA parts. Most of the parts are SA though.

Cleaning it up was not as difficult as I anticipated. It took about 2.5 hours to get it apart, clean the grease off the metal parts, and use a heat gone on the wood parts to get the grease off.

I need to get the tung oil and linseed oil to finish the stock and then I'll post a couple of pictures.

[30Cal]

I'm a pure tung oil fan. Linseed takes eons to dry completely.

[Astig Boy]

I like raw linseed over BLO and Tung Oil. It takes time to dry, but how many of you handle or shoot your guns that often anyways? Mine sit for awhile. RLO has been used for years by the military...they sure didn't have a drying issue when they used RLO every chance they could to maintain their wood stocks. Also, being these are going on C&R rifles, most want the aged look, or to have the wood age properly...you can not get that with BLO and most Tung Oils because they contain sealers. Oxidation needs to happen, which means the wood needs to breath. This can not happen with oils that contain sealers as it locks out oxidation...so a patina or aged color will never develop. Collectors have reported slight patina and darkening(to a black-reddish) developing within a year of using RLO.

Another source for Raw Linseed Oil is at your local art store or hobby shop(Michaels). Oil painters mix RLO with their paints to keep them from drying out.

[EricClay]

Another source for Raw Linseed Oil is at your local art store or hobby shop(Michaels). Oil painters mix RLO with their paints to keep them from drying out.

The linseed oil you find at an art store is "Refined" linseed oil that has had the proteins removed. This is done to prevent the paints from yellowing over time.

Its that "yellowing" process that gives our stocks that nice red color we love. Refined linseed oil is the same as boiled just missing the metalic dyers.

You want cold pressed RAW linseed or Flax oil.

[Astig Boy]

The linseed oil you find at an art store is "Refined" linseed oil that has had the proteins removed. This is done to prevent the paints from yellowing over time.

Its that "yellowing" process that gives our stocks that nice red color we love. Refined linseed oil is the same as boiled just missing the metalic dyers.

You want cold pressed RAW linseed or Flax oil.

Thanks for the clarification. I have seen the yellow linseed oil at Michaels. Some look thicker then others as well.

I use Sunnyside RLO. Found it at Marshall's Industrial Hardware here in San Diego.

[campperrykid]

It might not hurt to sun-cook the wood in a plastic bag a couple more times. I have had stocks bleed grease for an extended period of time. The raw linseed oil tends to go in deep and help to desolve the old grease. That's not a bad thing -- better out than in.

Sweet score , BTW.