Mauser 1910

[dfletcher]

I'm familiar with the Mauser 1914 and 1934 pistols and other than caliber what the have in common - the takedown, last shot hold open, slide closes when mag is seated... and to never buy Triple K mags for either one.

I picked up this Mauser today and have a few questions -





I thought the mag was an aftermarket but a bit of research tells me it's an original. They're described as being chrome plated and with a manufacturer's stamp on the toe, as is this one.

However, the slide does not hold to the rear after the last shot is fired. There's no lever in the action to be cammed up, as is found in the 1914 and 1934. This also makes disassembly/reassemby a PITA, as the barrel must be removed against the tension of the recoil spring with the slide fully to the rear. Easy workaround is to hold back the slide via the ejection against a non-marring surface, but it seems to me there ought to be a better way.

Also, how do you use the side latch to remove the sideplate - press it down clock wise? I assume that divot in the latch is there for a reason.

Any info appreciated.

[SkyHawk]

Good stuff here on the variants.

https://unblinkingeye.com/Guns/MP/mp.html

It says this about the sideplate model

The manual safety locks the sear by physically blocking it. The safety, when pressed down, is engaged and locked in the down position by flat spring which sits beneath the left grip, to the top of which is attached a button. When the button is pressed, the safety is released and moves upward under spring tension. The spring that tensions the safety lever is a bent flat spring, the bottom arm of which tensions the safety and the upper arm of which tensions the sear. A projection at the rear of the safety arm serves to lock the slide open when the slide is drawn to the rear and the safety applied.

Field Stripping the 1910 Mauser Side Latch

• Remove the magazine and make sure the gun is unloaded.
• Draw the slide all the way to the rear and engage the safety. This will lock the slide open.
• Depress the front plate of the barrel pin and turn it to the side.
• Remove the barrel pin.
• Lift the barrel up and remove it from the frame.
• Grasp the slide firmly and press the safety release button. (Be careful! The slide is under spring tension.)
• Before you remove the slide completely you may wish to pull the trigger to free the spring-loaded striker from the sear.
• Carefully draw the slide off the front of the frame.

[Rogerbutthead]

I sent him pg 414-5 of the NRA takedown book - the 2 pages on the Mauser 1910.

[dfletcher]

Thanks guys.

"draw the slide to the rear and engage the safety". I was part way to figuring out how to create a Mauser version of the old "BHP hammer hold back" tool.

Based on serial number mine is the more common "3rd variation" of the early model. No "Germany" on the right side so it was not made for export.

[Rogerbutthead]

I have a 1910 and a 1914 - I believe, bought back in the 80's - only fired one of them to see if they shot - been safe queens since then - never had the nerve to take them apart like you are. Don't think I have looked at them since the last oiling, probably due to check them again.

Good luck.

[dfletcher]

I have a 1910 and a 1914 - I believe, bought back in the 80's - only fired one of them to see if they shot - been safe queens since then - never had the nerve to take them apart like you are. Don't think I have looked at them since the last oiling, probably due to check them again.

Good luck.

My Father had a 1914. We used to shoot it in GrandMa's back yard - we were standing in MA and the target was in NH. It's the 1st gun I disassembled and (almost) correctly reassembled.

[MasterChief]

This one?

[Rogerbutthead]

No.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FN_Mod...%20World%20War.