Westernfield Model 75 *

[dfletcher]

Last week I picked up a Westernfield Model 75 revolver in 22lr. It's the house brand of Iver Johnson's Model 57 - which is essentially their 55 with a SAA type ejection rod. 6' barrel, fixed sights, wood grip. Bought it for condition & was with a friend picking up his guns. Previous owner was an actor I'd met a few times +30 years ago in in LA, James Earl Jones. So, what the heck -

The IJ version has a 3 click hammer. 1 safety notch, 1 half cock notch for loading and full cock. Cylinder spins free on half cock.

The Westernfield version doesn't have the half cock notch. Which makes it even more of a PITA to load. Unloading is only a little more of a PITA if it had a 2nd notch.

I've checked, there's no remnant of a damaged 2nd notch, no deliberate removal or cleaned over repair. The notch was never there.

Does anyone have the 75 and can confirm if the gun should have a 2nd notch or is deliberately without one? All the replacement schematics I've seen show one. Also, am assuming an IJ 55, 57 version will fit?

Edit: Correction to Western Field.

[kendog4570]

My cross reference shows this as an Iver Johnson "Sealed 8 Solid". The devil himself designed the lock work in these guns. Once they get worn and go out of whack, you are very lucky to get it 100% right again.
The Numrich pictures do show an intermediate notch. Monkey Wards probably cut a few costs with Iver and the half cock could have been one of them. Doesn't seem logical, it would take more labor to redesign it or remove it than to just build the part like the others.

[dfletcher]

My cross reference shows this as an Iver Johnson "Sealed 8 Solid". The devil himself designed the lock work in these guns. Once they get worn and go out of whack, you are very lucky to get it 100% right again.

The Numrich pictures do show an intermediate notch. Monkey Wards probably cut a few costs with Iver and the half cock could have been one of them. Doesn't seem logical, it would take more labor to redesign it or remove it than to just build the part like the others.

Thank Ken. Internals on the Sealed 8 should be the same, cylinders are identical with that forward cutout to wiggle around the barrel extension into the receiver window. This has a barrel mounted ejector rod and slightly different cylinder retaining pin set up.

Agree re the "why?". I get skipping checkering on "name brand vs house brand" or dropping sights - but deleting a half cock seems more $$$ trouble than it's worth. The gun doesn't have a conventional cylinder bolt cut nor cylinder bolt. Lock up is like the Webley top breaks. A cylinder stop with the hand applying stopping pressure on the cylinder against the stop.

Placement of a half cock notch doesn't seem critical, so long as it doesn't catch the DA lifter when the hammer drops. Adds to the mystery.

Spring tension is easily removed by backing out a screw. Neat feature they for some reason kept. So the hammer is easily removed and replaced without removing the guts of the revolver. Much like Charter Arms. If a drop in replacement works, we'll see. If not - 50 rounds will last me a day at the range.

Edit correction to Westernfield.

[dfletcher]

An FYI for lessons learned -

The hammer can be wiggled out without removing the trigger. And it does have 3 notches. The top notch, which I assumed was the safety notch, is actually the DA sear notch. The DA lifter directly engages it, much like the Colt DA Lightning lockwork does. Results in a very short but stiff DA trigger pull - none or very little camming action. 2nd notch is the middle "safety notch" and the 3rd is full cock.

The reason the cylinder wouldn't turn at half cock is because as the notch or SA sear wear it allows the hammer nose to tilt more forward when engaged. The excessive forward protrusion results in the hammer nose dipping into the chamber openings blocking turning.

Replacement SA sears cost about $15.00 and would probably correct the problem.

Disassembly and reassembly isn't all that difficult. A slave pin for the rear trigger guard pin and sear with spring makes things much easier.

[kendog4570]

Thanks for that. IJ and H&R have a whole family of revolvers with this type of lock work. I have invented a few cuss words and developed a few gray hairs trying to deal with unruly ones.
Keep us posted.

Many Good Lucks!!

[dfletcher]

I've ordered a replacement sear and a IJ 57 hammer as a "just in case".

I set the current hammer at half cock and stoned the existing hammer nose flush with the breech face, gave the left side a slight bevel to facilitate easier left to right cylinder rotation. Nose had plenty of forward protrusion.
Works fine, but why it's cut so close to just barely clear - probably has something to do with the cylinder "bolt" being an integral part of the trigger and its timing.

The solid frame low end stuff has always been a mystery to me. I figured with a sideplate I could always visualize and work things out. Winchester 88 and 100 rifle complete disassemble and reassemble boosted my confidence a bit. I still swear, cry and plead my way through things though.