My first Swede!

[crotter]

Wanted to share my most recent pickup... a nice condition Swedish Mauser.

Receiver stamped 1923, its in overall great condition. Unfortunately it is not 100% numbers matching, the only matching parts are the receiver, butt plate, and bolt group.

The barrel bands, rear sight, bolt release, and bottom plate are mismatched.

Is this fairly common for the Swedish mausers to have mismatched parts? Would it have been re-arsenaled at some point? There is also a SAMCO import stamp under the barrel, not super obvious but it is there.

Either way I am quite happy with it. Haven't come across one out in the wild in quite some time. Snagged it for $400.

Excited to test it out at the range soon... I hear these are real tack-drivers!!

[Freedom_shooter]

[81turbota]

That's a winner! Very nice first Swede, I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised with its performance at the range.

[Bainter1212]

That is a really nice looking Swede!

It is far more common to run into matching Swedes than non-matching. You will often see mismatched stocks or handguards, but all of mine have matching metal.

These are the best shooting of all the Mausers IMO.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

[crotter]

Thanks! Its a real quality rifle. Have several K98's in my collection, including a 1937 numbers matching Erma, and there is no comparison. This Swede is the prettiest of the bunch!

Have been geeking out all afternoon over this rifle.

It has a cartouche stamp under the stock in the "wrist" section with a Crown/Gg

Apparently this means at some point it went in to an Army workshop in Goteborg for a major repair. Perhaps that explains the mismatched barrel bands... does seem like most of these guys are completely matching.

Does anyone know where the serial number for the barrel is located? Is it under the hand guard? Also are the stocks supposed to be serial numbered?

[highpower]

The stocks are numbered in the barrel channel.

[crotter]

The stocks are numbered in the barrel channel.

Thanks! Will have to figure out how to disassemble without hurting anything at some point!

[DBA]

Congrats that is pretty for sure.

[Mustang]

Good show! I'm sure that you will be happy with it.

Matching numbers are a nice plus, but I've always felt that as long as the receiver and bolt match you are on good solid ground.

Post a range report when you can.

[Sutcliffe]

Just beautiful examples of design and craftsmanship

My favorite Mauser variant.

[SVT-40]

You have a nice M/96B rifle. The "B" designation is for the threaded muzzle, which was threaded to accept the Swedish blank firing adapter. It probably has been through at least two arsenal refurbs, as it had it's muzzle threaded.

As for matching numbers, I'm sure the targets will not care, and every Swede I've owned regardless of matching or not shot with boringly reliable accuracy.

The stock is a very pretty walnut, and probably original to the rifle. Once you get it apart you can confirm the stock number.

In order to take it apart you need to first remove the cleaning rod, as the band spring and nose cap spring cannot be depressed and allow the barrel band and nose cap to slide of with the rod in place.

You can use a sharp piece of wood to push down the band spring. Just be sure to not damage the stock beside the spring.

I've been using the "sharp stick" in the pic's below for over two decades. Just requires an occasional sharpening.

Congrats!!

[Grendl]

Super swede!

[crotter]

You have a nice M/96B rifle. The "B" designation is for the threaded muzzle, which was threaded to accept the Swedish blank firing adapter. It probably has been through at least two arsenal refurbs, as it had it's muzzle threaded.

As for matching numbers, I'm sure the targets will not care, and every Swede I've owned regardless of matching or not shot with boringly reliable accuracy.

The stock is a very pretty walnut, and probably original to the rifle. Once you get it apart you can confirm the stock number.

In order to take it apart you need to first remove the cleaning rod, as the band spring and nose cap spring cannot be depressed and allow the barrel band and nose cap to slide of with the rod in place.

You can use a sharp piece of wood to push down the band spring. Just be sure to not damage the stock beside the spring.

I've been using the "sharp stick" in the pic's below for over two decades. Just requires an occasional sharpening.

Congrats!!
]

Thanks for the informative reply!

I took it apart last night. The barrel bands were quite easy to remove, could actually just use my finger to press them down and slide them off.

The stock is not matching to the receiver/bolt but the numbers did match to the top wood piece. I am pretty sure the barrel was replaced at some point as I couldnt find a serial number on it, just a crown proof mark stamp. Makes sense considering it has the threaded barrel.