Found this pitiful old relic at a hoarder's estate.
Swapped a couple of swords for it ($400 or so value) as he refused to sell anything.
It was triple plated and heavily buffed, all markings, which were (very) poor fake Colt markings, were buffed almost invisible.
The plating was damp-damaged and ugly - it was definitely not an original Colt or an Italian replica.

After some research I found these were most likely South of the border fakes, late 19th century early 20th century manufacture. Basically made by small machine shops to help supply the demand for Sam Colt's revolvers.
I had thought it might be a Belgian knock off, but their fakes are a little-different and the engraving (text) is better applied.
*It is serial numbered, not a bad fake number font - and every part matches - however they have not broken the number on the base plate, but, gone beneath the screw - unlike the original first model Colts - although 7496 is actually surprisingly in the range for the First Pattern Dragoon series - they probably reverse engineered a real one.
The timing and lock-up on this one are crisp, precise and positive. As good as any modern Italian replica in my opinion, so it was worth a little work.
The trigger spring is a rigid V shaped viper that proved a strength test to re-assemble, not the screwed in later type. This thing will out last me, lol.
First Model:
The First Model Colt Dragoon Revolver has oval cylinder notches, a V-type mainspring, no wheel on the rear of the hammer, no pins between the nipples on the cylinder and a square back trigger guard. Colt produced about 7,000 first models between 1848 and 1850.
I used 0000 wool and chrome polish, then just oil and 0000, with a plastic buff afterward.
The brass had been gold plated and every screw, too.
It had been plated over then top of pitting and rust - which was the evidence it was not an original plate.
The cylinder had been chrome bumper plated - which took forever to gently trick-off.
There was a lot of rust inside, and I cleaned it out and oiled it.
I have left the plating on the cylinder rod, as the fit is just about perfect and I didn't want to affect that and risk having a rattling cylinder.
I used a cold blue on the white metal, then buffed with 0000 and oil, then a second and third application of cold blue.
These are not worth much and 1960's plating was sure as hell not adding to the collector or re-sale value, neither of which particularly concern me.
I just rather like the Mexican Cowboy gun -
Swapped a couple of swords for it ($400 or so value) as he refused to sell anything.
It was triple plated and heavily buffed, all markings, which were (very) poor fake Colt markings, were buffed almost invisible.
The plating was damp-damaged and ugly - it was definitely not an original Colt or an Italian replica.

After some research I found these were most likely South of the border fakes, late 19th century early 20th century manufacture. Basically made by small machine shops to help supply the demand for Sam Colt's revolvers.
I had thought it might be a Belgian knock off, but their fakes are a little-different and the engraving (text) is better applied.
*It is serial numbered, not a bad fake number font - and every part matches - however they have not broken the number on the base plate, but, gone beneath the screw - unlike the original first model Colts - although 7496 is actually surprisingly in the range for the First Pattern Dragoon series - they probably reverse engineered a real one.
The timing and lock-up on this one are crisp, precise and positive. As good as any modern Italian replica in my opinion, so it was worth a little work.
The trigger spring is a rigid V shaped viper that proved a strength test to re-assemble, not the screwed in later type. This thing will out last me, lol.
First Model:
The First Model Colt Dragoon Revolver has oval cylinder notches, a V-type mainspring, no wheel on the rear of the hammer, no pins between the nipples on the cylinder and a square back trigger guard. Colt produced about 7,000 first models between 1848 and 1850.
I used 0000 wool and chrome polish, then just oil and 0000, with a plastic buff afterward.
The brass had been gold plated and every screw, too.
It had been plated over then top of pitting and rust - which was the evidence it was not an original plate.
The cylinder had been chrome bumper plated - which took forever to gently trick-off.
There was a lot of rust inside, and I cleaned it out and oiled it.
I have left the plating on the cylinder rod, as the fit is just about perfect and I didn't want to affect that and risk having a rattling cylinder.
I used a cold blue on the white metal, then buffed with 0000 and oil, then a second and third application of cold blue.
These are not worth much and 1960's plating was sure as hell not adding to the collector or re-sale value, neither of which particularly concern me.
I just rather like the Mexican Cowboy gun -



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