Unconfigured Ad Widget

Collapse

Anybody else using ED'S RED gun cleaner

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • NOTABIKER
    Calguns Addict
    • Mar 2012
    • 7635

    Anybody else using ED'S RED gun cleaner

    I did some reading up on how to make up a batch. I have not used it yet but i like the idea.
    1. one Qt ATF [ dextron or type F ] Not the newer synthetic
    2. one Qt kerosene
    3. one Qt Mineral Spirits, the original good stuff. Not the CA aproved stuff
    4. one Qt Asitone [ optional] i used it also
    This formula has been around for a long time. With this large amount i can pretty much dunk the receiver in the stuff and soak it.
  • #2
    81turbota
    CGN/CGSSA Contributor
    • Oct 2014
    • 2956

    I've used it before, works great on metal! Don't get it near the wood though.
    C&R nut.

    Comment

    • #3
      otteray
      Veteran Member
      • Feb 2006
      • 3246

      I make it by the gallon.
      Since mineral spirits have been banned here, might try naptha, or maybe bbq starter fluid.
      Leave out the acetone in a batch, for a good, basic lubricant.
      sigpic
      Single fin mentality

      Comment

      • #4
        corerftech
        Senior Member
        • May 2010
        • 1994

        exclusively for 10 years.
        good luck getting components in CA now.
        Gotta have proper solvents....

        Scrub your milsurps as hard as you like, soak the small action parts in the stuff in mason jars for 48 hours. Then wipe heavily and remove on the entire metal surface of the gun. Your Mauser/etc, etc will be able to stand in the corner of your garage for a year w/o concern of humidity, flash or any other defect showing up on the metal.

        Also,acetone is NOT optional. The LANOLIN (Anhydrous) is the option.
        ACETONE must be used.

        The ATF will leave metal protecting elements at the molecular level on the gun. Add lanolin for 2 years of protection. Literally 2 years of DONT THINK ABOUT IT and it will take salt water coastal air with ease!

        as 81turbota said, don't get it on the wood finish. Unless you want to remove it rapidly. Although when you mix a gallon as I do in a glass jug, when it has been drained mostly over a few years, the bite of the acetone is effectively killed in the last 16 ounces or so due to separation which can't be stopped. You can shake it all day long but you are decanting more solvents earlier in the jug and less ATF/mineral spirits. So when the aged liquor form the bottom of the jug DOES get used near wood, its less likely to bite hard and do prompt damage.

        So I have experienced.

        The BEST solvent EVER for firearms.
        Sometimes pregnant rabbits just explode. The placenta is especially fun to marvel at.

        Comment

        • #5
          NOTABIKER
          Calguns Addict
          • Mar 2012
          • 7635

          I bought a nice big clear glass jug with a large sealed lid. that way i can see the fluid condition . I had some of the good old MS before the CA ban. I plan on soaking my AR with all the plastic removed in it after shooting.

          What is the best process for cleaning after soaking. Are we trying to remove all the solvent like blowing the metal with compressed air or just wiping down.

          Comment

          • #6
            Hinnerk
            Senior Member
            • May 2015
            • 779

            I use it with lanolin. The local haz waste reuse facility is your friend for non-CA compliant ingredients.

            Comment

            • #7
              otteray
              Veteran Member
              • Feb 2006
              • 3246

              Originally posted by corerftech

              Also,acetone is NOT optional. The LANOLIN (Anhydrous) is the option.
              ACETONE must be used.
              C.E., "Ed" Harris, the creator of the Ed's Red formula several years ago, derived from Colonel Julius Hatcher's original recipe in Hatcher's Notebook (1947,) would disagree:

              Acetone is included to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent for caked smokeless powder residues. Because acetone readily evaporates and the fumes are harmful in high concentrations, it is recommended that it be left out if the cleaner will be used indoors, in soak tanks or in enclosed spaces lacking forced air ventilation. Containers should be kept tightly closed when not in use. ER is still effective without acetone, but not as "fast-acting."
              Also, if mineral spirits can't be found, turpentine was in Hatcher's original formula.
              sigpic
              Single fin mentality

              Comment

              • #8
                OpenSightsOnly
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2009
                • 1557

                Originally posted by NOTABIKER
                I plan on soaking my AR with all the plastic removed in it after shooting.

                What is the best process for cleaning after soaking. Are we trying to remove all the solvent like blowing the metal with compressed air or just wiping down.
                Soaking an AR in Ed's red is seriously overkill.

                My bore solvent is a variation of Ed's red - ATF, Gunk Engine Flush, and Kroil.

                Push two "really" wet patches thorugh the bore, let it sit for two hours, wrap a dry patch on a used/undersized bore brush and push it through the bore. Do that for two or three times and call it quits.

                Over complicating a simple process.

                Then again your rifle, your money, and your time

                Comment

                Working...
                UA-8071174-1