K98k Bolt Stuck on Closed Position

[Günter]

I don't know how this happened, the rifle should have been unloaded and stored with bolt closed and decocked. Took it out for maintenance today and the bolt won't open no matter how much strength I apply. I noticed that the firing pin is recessed through the cocking piece which is not supposed to be. The cocking piece is about 1/8" away from being fully "decocked" position, therefore the bolt is stuck in a world between cocked and decocked. I've tried recocking and decocking it by use of tools but with no luck so far. The safety lever is also stuck on safety off (fire) position.

Anyone with experience know what is causing this? and how to solve the problem? I've owned multiple Mausers for years but I never seen this happen.

[TRAP55]

I've never seen anything like that, the firing pin lugs look to be completely disengaged from the cocking piece lugs. Can you pull the cocking piece back using the slot cut on the side? If so, far enough to engage the safety?

[Günter]

I've tried pulling the cocking piece with a screwdriver blade but with no effect, its really locked in there. Even used various penetrating oils to loosen any parts, but the rifle has been stored well with protective oils, nothing should've rusted in place.

[OpenSightsOnly]

Instead of using a flat head screwdriver to pull the cocking piece, try using the rim of an 8mm brass

[Günter]

Even used a cartridge casing until i broke the rim off - still no luck, also noted that the cocking piece is about 1/8" away from being fully "decocked" position. Tried doing the opposite of hammering the cocking piece forward with a nylon mallet but to no effect.

[MasterChief]

Maybe start by removing the trigger, sear and bolt stop/ejector housing (if possible)?

Fabricate brass adapter for cleaning rod tip to force firing pin back a fraction to allow bolt body rotation? Prolly take an assistant there...

Will be following this closely.

[OpenSightsOnly]

weird, the firing pin shouldn't be recessed since mainspring is pushing that back against the cocking piece

[Garand Hunter]

Can you put the safety in straight up position ?

Psalm 1

[Günter]

Maybe start by removing the trigger, sear and bolt stop/ejector housing (if possible)?

Fabricate brass adapter for cleaning rod tip to force firing pin back a fraction to allow bolt body rotation? Prolly take an assistant there...

Will be following this closely.

I dont know about fabricating a brass adapter and all that with my limited tools but I will start full disassembly of the rifle tonight and maybe take some pictures

Can you put the safety in straight up position ?

Psalm 1

Nope, it is stuck on safety off (fire) position. Switching the lever up requires cocking piece to be fully cocked, but right now its in limbo between cock and decocked.

[TRAP55]

Maybe start by removing the trigger, sear and bolt stop/ejector housing (if possible)?

Fabricate brass adapter for cleaning rod tip to force firing pin back a fraction to allow bolt body rotation? Prolly take an assistant there...

Will be following this closely.

Best course of action.
I'm guessing that the last dry fire, sheared the lugs on the firing pin, and that means it's probably jammed in the cocking piece. Like the Chief said, the firing pin has to be moved rearward enough for the bolt to rotate.
The only way to do that, is to push the firing pin tip back flush into the bolt face....and do it without breaking the tip off.

[kendog4570]

I have seen this before. A LONG time ago! If I remember correctly, I held the rifle in a vise, grabbed the cocking piece with a pair of vise grip pliers, and opened the bolt while pulling back on the cocking piece. Sooner or later you will find the sweet spot and it will open.

[emcon5]

I dont know about fabricating a brass adapter and all that with my limited tools

A spent .22LR case and a .22 cleaning rod will probably work. It will fit right over the threads, and is small enough to fit down a 8mm bore with plenty of room to spare.

[TRAP55]

I have seen this before. A LONG time ago! If I remember correctly, I held the rifle in a vise, grabbed the cocking piece with a pair of vise grip pliers, and opened the bolt while pulling back on the cocking piece. Sooner or later you will find the sweet spot and it will open.

Ken, do you remember what caused it?
The only thing I've seen close to that was a FP that broke in half. When I got it apart, it looked like someone had tried to color case the FP.

[GunKraut]

weird, the firing pin shouldn't be recessed since mainspring is pushing that back against the cocking piece

The firing pin spring pushes the firing pin forward. The cocking piece prevents it from going forward until the sear drops.

[GunKraut]

In general, neither the firing pin, nor the cocking piece nor the bolt shroud rotate. The only rotating piece is the bolt. So what keeps it from rotating?
The firing pin has two external flats, the bolt shroud has two internal flats, hence the firing pin cannot rotate within the bolt shroud.
The cocking piece is confined by the bolt shroud, it cannot rotate either unless the firing pin is pushed rearwards until the spring is totally compressed. With the bolt installed and the spring fully compressed, the ridge at the bottom of the cocking piece and the groove machined into the tang prevent the cocking piece from rotating.
The firing pin has three grooves and three shoulders that engage with the cocking piece. The rearmost shoulder on an original K98 firing pin is slightly thicker, so the firing pin cannot be installed recessed like we see in the OP's picture. Aftermarket pins, pins with wear or a combination of worn pin, worn cocking piece and an owner on steroids will allow recessed installation.

If the firing pin is recessed within the cocking piece, it is protruding forward by the same amount. Where the flat section of the firing pin turns into the tip, there is a collar with two forward facing blades, like a screw driver. The blades will lock into corresponding grooves in the front end of the bolt due to the additional protrusion. If you now try to open the bolt, the grooves of the rotating bolt will hold on to the firing pin blades and try to turn the pin. But the firing pin has flats that prevent it from rotating inside the bolt shroud, thereby also preventing the bolt from rotating.

The only way to clear the lockup is to either pull on the cocking piece or push on the tip of the firing pin, while working the bolt handle at the same time.
Now, if you already went Mosin Nagant on your Mauser (a.k.a. trying to open the bolt with a mallet), you may have twisted the firing pin right where it enters the bolt shroud and now it's binding when you're trying to pull it back.