K98 recommendations

[massguy]

Looking to try to pick up a good representation of a German WW2 K98. Not really familiar with these or the cartridge.

Whats the consensus on the Russian capture mixmasters? Were the stocks or waffen markings mutilated on these?
What can I expect for reasonable cost for an RC late 30's to early 40's?
What's the next step up without full retard cost.

[highpower]

The RC K98k's are a legitimate option for a wartime Mauser. They will never be worth what a numbers matching bring back will bring on the market, but they are a decent, less expensive alternative. Some have had the swastikas punched out below the waffenampts and some are still intact.

They seem to be currently selling in the $350-450 range. Bores on the ones I have seen tend to be decent, so they make good shooters.

The next step up would be a matching number, except for the bolt, rifle that was imported either before the '68 GCA or one that somehow escaped being import marked.

I picked up this 1939 dated, 42 (Mauser) code RC with a perfect bore for $400 here locally. I probably paid a bit too much, but I liked the fact that the chickens hadn't been punched and it somehow escaped being import marked.

[oc16]

I have been looking for a while I found one from a seller from Nor cal for 500 I overpaid a bit but its a good shooter. if you can find one except to pay in the 500-700 for a Russian capture the problems with k98s in California is no one wants to sell them you might find one in a gun show.

[hollowpoint67]

$500 is the new norm for Russian captures (RC)

I see some prayer sellers trying to pitch Yugo captures and Russians with pinged markings but I personally wouldnt go for those. I'd just go for a RC with the waffenamps aka WAR EAGLES by our price gouging friends over @ Classic.

Obviously there are some features that get mixed up as they are mix masters but as a shooter the RCs are 100% good to go.

[jeremyro]

Yeah I have bought and sold RC mausers in the last year and they were all around 500-550. Great versions of the k98 though. I have a Yugo also which is kinda technically a nicer build and has a nicer stock and blueing instead of the park coating, but the RC looks more "real"

[Von_Richthofen]

The RC K98k's are a legitimate option for a wartime Mauser. They will never be worth what a numbers matching bring back will bring on the market, but they are a decent, less expensive alternative. Some have had the swastikas punched out below the waffenampts and some are still intact.

They seem to be currently selling in the $350-450 range. Bores on the ones I have seen tend to be decent, so they make good shooters.

The next step up would be a matching number, except for the bolt, rifle that was imported either before the '68 GCA or one that somehow escaped being import marked.

I picked up this 1939 dated, 42 (Mauser) code RC with a perfect bore for $400 here locally. I probably paid a bit too much, but I liked the fact that the chickens hadn't been punched and it somehow escaped being import marked.

I'd say you did just fine! A early Mauser coded Kar with adlers intact..Looking good! And to the OP's question, a RC makes a fine shooter and they have increased in value. Been shooting 8 mill for 40 years now. Use to bag as many rabbits with my BNZ4 as all my semi auto 22 or 223 carrying friends out hunting... If you have lots of .308 pick up an Israeli Mauser. I found a nice 35 banner for 200 a few years back.

[Von_Richthofen]

Yeah I have bought and sold RC mausers in the last year and they were all around 500-550. Great versions of the k98 though. I have a Yugo also which is kinda technically a nicer build and has a nicer stock and blueing instead of the park coating, but the RC looks more "real"

Good point! I forgot to mention the Yugos in my post.. Still can be found unfired for about 300.. Agree that if you're going 8mm go WW2 98K!

[Von_Richthofen]

$500 is the new norm for Russian captures (RC)

I see some prayer sellers trying to pitch Yugo captures and Russians with pinged markings but I personally wouldnt go for those. I'd just go for a RC with the waffenamps aka WAR EAGLES by our price gouging friends over @ Classic.

Obviously there are some features that get mixed up as they are mix masters but as a shooter the RCs are 100% good to go.

You're correct about not paying RC prices for certain Yugos. I've done well with reworked WW2 Yugo captures. Got a nice BCD4 with eagles intact for 249 in a 48 Yugo stock. Resides in a nice Sauer laminate stock now..

[hollowpoint67]

You're correct about not paying RC prices for certain Yugos. I've done well with reworked WW2 Yugo captures. Got a nice BCD4 with eagles intact for 249 in a 48 Yugo stock. Resides in a nice Sauer laminate stock now..

How did a K98 fit in a 48 stock? Thought those were intermediate?

[Bobby Ricigliano]

My K98 Frankenmausers that have no two matching parts shoot as well as some my other factory matching Mausers. Just make sure it has a decent bore, everything else is gravy. I avoid the Romanian reworks because they are sloppily peened with a jackhammer.

[Bobby Ricigliano]

If you can find a Czech rework they are nice too. Scrubbed crest usually but in excellent shape and restamped to match receiver & bolt.

[Bobby Ricigliano]

I still have French, Israeli, and Norwegian reworks on my want list.

[ltong29]

I recently purchased a 1937 S/42 bolt mismatch (everything on the rifle matches and the bolt matches to itself) for $825. There's a lot of K98ks out there, you just need to be careful and study what you're purchasing carefully. There are a lot of forgeries in the K98k world. I would recommend checking out gunboards or the k98kforums. There, you can study and learn more info about K98s and hopefully avoid this scenario:

http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?748586-Info-on-my-S-147-G-K98-vet-bring-back-*PIC-HEAVY*

(TL: DR poster thought he purchased a vet bring back on GB, turns out he got an entirely mismatched K98k with a Yugo barrel).
To me, there are 3 grades of proper K98ks.
1. Russian Captures
2. Bolt Mismatch
3. Matching

Russian captures are entry level. Usually they have been refinished and the bolt is usually scrubbed and the numbers are electro-penciled in. Most of the time the receiver parts will match each other. Often, the proof marks have been peened. There is usually the iconic crossed rifles (or X) on the side of the receiver. The stock may or may not match but usually they've been sanded and refinished. These will be your lowest priced option at around $4-500. Another capture is the Yugo capture. These were re-arsenalled after the war. The German markings have been entirely scrubbed and replaced with Yugoslavian markings. Another good budget options as they were built from K98ks.
Next up is the "Bolt Mismatch". These are a little more historically accurate as usually they haven't been refinished and the numbers haven't been scrubbed. They should have all matching receiver parts. The stock should match and the cartouches/proofs should be intact. The bolts won't match the receiver but they should match itself (i.e. the immediately visible parts [bolt handle, safety lever, etc] should match.). These can run you anywhere from $700-$1000 depending on the year, manufacturer, and condition of the rifle.
Finally, there are the all matching rifles, down to the screws. These command the highest price. Usually they are $1000+. The only thing is you need to be careful when examining all matching rifles due to the number of counterfeits. An example of this is Mitchell's Mausers K98s. Mitchell's is infamous for "reworking" Russian Captures into "all matching" rifles.
Example: http://www.mitchellsales.com/EmailSupport/Special_K98s/
example: http://www.gunbroker.com/item/639394964

What exactly are you looking for? A shooter, a collector's piece? If you're looking for a shooter, a RC should be fine. Non-German Mausers are also very nice. VZ-24s, M24/x, and M48s are all excellent choices. While they don't have the same "attractiveness" as a German K98k, they function similarly and can usually be had at a lower price point.

[massguy]

Thanks for the excellent info.

What is the history behind a "bolt mismatch"? Is everything else matching and have an refinished original stock?

For my 1st I would prefer a more accurate K98 without any stamps defaced, good bore, clean metal and an original wartime stock. Would pay the extra premium. Would shoot it on rare occasions or why bother. Question is can I find one being a working stiff with limited time.

But it sounds like an RC in good condition would be ok to.

$

[Rogerbutthead]

There are many Mausers with bolt mismatched in the US.

One of the origin stories is that when homeward bound US military got into their troop transports, for safety reason all rifle bolts were removed from their souvenirs.

When they left the ships, they got whatever bolt came out from the bag of bolts. Hence the myriad number of mismatches.