Troubleshooting Luger functionality - Update 4/7

[rdfact]

It must be "trouble with Lugers" day. I did not want to thread jack 81turbota's thread: http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s....php?t=1309869

I saw a Luger for sale today. Its a DWM 1914. It is not all matching but looked to have parts from two different guns based on the numbers. Finish was pretty nice but the side plate was dinged up. Grips are repro plastic and loose. It seems to be priced very cheap because of an issue: The bolt will not fully close on its own. It will close by pushing the toggle slightly (maybe a few lbs of pressure).

I did not take any pics of the luger for sale, so I looked for some videos and found one that seems to show approximately how much the bolt stays open (1/4" to 1/2"). Skip to about 2:30. Attached is a screen shot from about 2:40. Maybe the issue is due to improper reassembly? I know it's impossible to say for sure, just thought you guys might have some ideas.

Thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lh7FB4bGa2g

[dfletcher]

When reassembling the Luger that "hitch" at 2:30 is normal, at least what I know of Lugers. It's caused by the firing pin spring being compressed when the bolt assembly is reinserted fully onto the upper frame. I forget the terminology he used, but the "sear notch" on the firing pin assembly is catching on the sear bar. Were the gun functioning that slight spring resistance would be overcome by the toggle briskly closing.

My habit, when reassembling and having the trigger plate off, is to depress the sear bar and let the bolt assembly drop in easy. No need to dry fire and release the FP spring.

[rdfact]

Troubleshooting Luger operation

I should have added, the seller said they took it to the range and it did the same thing when firing. It would not fully close unless you pushed it by hand.

[dfletcher]

^
Hmm, I'm at a loss. Underpowered mainspring, bolt is fully closing then popping back open?

The test I would try is locking the action open on an empty mag, removing the mag and then releasing the action, let it fly closed on its own. See what happens.

[rdfact]

^^ Thanks for the reply dfletcher. I have been doing some researching to get a better understanding of Lugers.

[Syntax Error]

An underpowered mainspring is probably the reason for a toggle to fail to go into battery, assuming there's nothing obstructing the travel of the breech block and toggle from going into battery into the barrel extension.

[zinfull]

A good cleaning maybe all you need.

[mikeyr]

these wonderful toys are getting pretty old, I would suggest changing springs on something that old, just as a precaution anyway. Other than a tweaked frame holding something up, I can't think of anything else that would cause it.

Personally I would take a good look at it and if nothing is bent or tweaked, I would buy it and assume I can fix it, but I like Luger's and love shooting them.

[rdfact]

**Update** I bought it.
This was at a local pawn shop priced at $599. I saw it last Friday then started this thread and did lots of research over the weekend to become more familiar with Lugers. I had never owned a Luger so knew very little about them.

I went back today and looked it over again. The guy I spoke to on Friday was not there, but the guy I spoke to today seemed to be aware of its issues and functionality problems. I worked the action a few times. It does stay open on an empty mag. I saw the same issue as before where it would not go into battery all the way without a little push. But I also briskly pulled the action back and let it go and it did go into battery on its own several times.

So I said, "Given its functionality issues, what is your best price?". He excused himself for a minute and went to the back to talk to or call/text someone. He came back and said........ $250 plus DROS and tax. I pretended to mull it over while stifling a huge grin.
"What the heck", says I, "I'll take a gamble on it."

I have a C&R and COE, so after doing the paperwork I brought her home. About $300 OTD.

I still need to do a full strip and clean but I can't find any import marks. It seems to have parts from more than the two guns I originally thought.
The grips are repro plastic? No marks I can see.
The right side grip screw appears to be a hardware store replacement.
The magazine has no marks and has a plastic base plate. I have read that the later mags had the plastic base plate but I thought it should have a makers mark? Repro as well I assume?

[rdfact]

More pics...

[81turbota]

AWESOME score!!!!!

A new recoil spring will likely fix your out of battery issues. Magazine looks like a Mec-Gar.

See my "broke a Luger" tread and inspect your breech block.

They're fantastic shooting pistols. Nothing else like it.

Enjoy!!

[Enfield47]

Congrats rdfact. You got it for a great price.

[hollowpoint67]

Lol $300.... Practically stole it.

[rdfact]

Range report:

I took this Luger to the range yesterday. Put one round in the mag, racked it (if that is even the proper terminology for a Luger), it chambered properly, pulled the trigger, BANG. Off to a good start. Very very light trigger pull (which may be part of the following issue).

Loaded 2 rounds. Chambered and fired the first. It ejected and chambered the next round. Pulled trigger and... nothing.

Without a mag loaded, I racked it a few times, trigger did reset and goes click as expected when pulling the trigger. Again extremely light trigger pull. I have read these usually have stiff triggers.

Loaded one round and inserted mag. Right hand was fully wrapped around the grip (finger nowhere near trigger), gun pointed down range, left hand worked the toggle all the way back and let go. BANG. Dang thing fired on it's own as soon as it went into battery.

Now at home testing this, it seems to fire almost every time I rack it. Not good. The trigger will reset if you pull the toggle back just about a 1/4" until it clicks. But if I pull the toggle all the way back and let it go, simulating actual semi-auto firing, it fires on its own. If I reset the trigger and ease it into battery, I can look down the bore with a flashlight and see the firing pin is recessed under spring tension, ready to fire. Pull the trigger and can now see the firing pin forward no longer under tension. If I pull the toggle all the way back and let it go into battery, then look down the bore, the firing pin is forward, appearing to have fired on its own. I don't have any 9mm snap caps on hand to test with.

Any ideas on what part or parts would need to be fixed or replaced to fix this?

[Syntax Error]

The sear may be worn down, or the striker cocking piece may be slipping off of the sear. It would be worth looking at those two particular parts.