STEVENS 325...Hazard alert post #11

[echo1]

Hi Guys,

I've got a Stevens 325 that came with a slug of C&R rifles and extra treasures. It's been a few years, and I finally got around to addressing some mechanical issues it had, besides the stock being in bad shape.

The question I have is regarding the barrel to stock attachment. It has a barrel band, that a screw goes through the fore end and screws into it. The distance between the receiver lug/mounting point is 7.5 inches.

Should I cinch it down tight, a little lose, or put a spacer to add slight up pressure to the barrel?

Should be a decent shooter with the pointy .30-30 boolits.

Thanks, PAX

[TRAP55]

Tighten the recoil lug screw down tight, then snug the barrel band screw. That's the way it was designed. Accuracy, especially with spire points, will probably surprise you.

[echo1]

Thanks TRAP.

I had no idea about this model and was surprised when I discovered it was a .30-30 bolt gun. PAX

[TMB 1]

I have a couple Savage 340s. 30-30 and 222Rem. 30-30 accuracy will surprise you even with RN and FP bullets. The 222 is a little tack driver and worth getting if run in to one.
If you need extra mag Wisner inc sell them.

http://www.wisnersinc.com/model/savage-340-bolt-action/

[TRAP55]

If you 340 fans ever run across one in .225 Winchester, grab it or tell me where to find it!

[TRAP55]

monkey wards version Savage 340 very accurate to 100yrd with its vintage 7x scope and fun to shoot
no plastic

John, can you post a pic of the side mount for the scope, and any model number/writing on it?

[I Swan]

I have one in .223 Rem I think they're actually kind of scarce in that chambering.

[Ford8N]

If you 340 fans ever run across one in .225 Winchester, grab it or tell me where to find it!

They come up fairly regular on GunBroker. The .225 is a more modern high pressure round and the receiver really wasn't made for it. That said, it works ok. After you shoot it, it's kinds tight to move the bolt with factory rounds. But I like mine, works great as a walking gun for getting jacks.

[Ford8N]

I have one in .223 Rem I think they're actually kind of scarce in that chambering.

Yes, that is a collector caliber for 340 fans.

[echo1]

UNLOADED ACCIDENTAL DISCHARGE

Thank for the input guys.

I had a disturbing incident occur upon re-assembly. After lightly oiling the bolt and trigger group, I put it back together using the tightening procedure that TRAP recommended.

I was cycling the action, working the lubricant around, checking the safety, a few dry fires. On one occasion, I cycled the bolt, engaged the safety, tried to pull the trigger (safety check), then took it off "safe" and it fired.

I tried it again several more times, but I didn't happen again. What I did discover, was while the safety was on and you attempted to pull the trigger, then released the safety, the trigger pull was ounces, minimal pressure.

Examining closer, I could see the trigger stayed back a little, with the bolt cocked, and the trigger pulled with the safety on. When moving the trigger to the "normal" position, the trigger pull weight was as expected.

With the bolt removed, engaging the safety has no effect on the trigger return when trying to pull it. It only has this hang up with the bolt cocked.

I haven't torn into the trigger group yet, as I thought I'd wait till I got some feed back from you guys. Week trigger spring seems most obvious, maybe hidden crud.

I also committed a mortal C&R sin, I added sling swivels and a recoil pad to a first run rifle . PAX

[I Swan]

Yes, that is a collector caliber for 340 fans.

I assume not terribly valuable but I should do some research.

[TRAP55]

Echo, check the trigger and sear spring.
Schematic:

http://stevespages.com/ipb-savage-340.html

Ford8N, It's a stronger action than you may think. It actually has two locking lugs, one huge one near the bolt face, and the bolt handle itself. On top of that, the 340's have almost a quarter inch of freebore, that makes for a large drop in chamber pressure.
If you're having extraction issues, check your head space and burnish the chamber. Savage introduced the barrel locking nut on the 340, and it became a feature on the 110. You use it to adjust head space too.
I learned one thing real quick on these rifles, like a Mosin or an 1873 Winchester, you cycle the action like you mean it. Half stroke it, and it'll jamb. The 340 is a controlled feed like a Mauser. Have one already up in the bolt face ready to feed, then a short pull back, and it'll try to feed another round. Work the action in a full stroke, and you have a positive feed every time.

[echo1]

Echo, check the trigger and sear spring.
Schematic:

http://stevespages.com/ipb-savage-340.html

I took it back down and carb cleaned the trigger group, used compressed air to blow some crud out. Sprayed synth oil, a little more air, bingo. Trigger returns fine, both springs looked/felt good. Musta had some dust bunnies in there, no evidence of the previous trigger hanging issues. PAX

[TMB 1]

My Savage 340s. 222 with Weaver V9 scope and 30-30 with peep sight.

[TRAP55]

here you go Trap as far as the scope dunno who the actually made it. has a faded sticker like the Japanese would put on imports back in the day the mount has no markings showing I have history of the original owner his wife worked for Wards at the time. this was his first deer rifle

Thanks John! I've seen another type mount that uses the same holes, but has a Weaver type rail as a one piece unit. Haven't been able to ID it either. Somewhere I have notes on who made your scope, I think it was Nikko?, I'll check if I can find it. Don't underestimate it though, it was good glass, especially for the price.
Echo, I'm bettin solidified WD-40 gummed up in there? Wouldn't be the first one.