m1 carbine rear sight

[sapper911]

Hello, I have a early 1943 low wood inland carbine. I have a problem. The rear sight is loose. It does not appear to be original as it is an adjustable sight. Here is the real problem. The receiver has no stake mark, should I stake it or is it a rare thing to have a carbine without stake marks. Should I get an original flip sight?

[microwaveguy]

Hello, I have a early 1943 low wood inland carbine. I have a problem. The rear sight is loose. It does not appear to be original as it is an adjustable sight. Here is the real problem. The receiver has no stake mark, should I stake it or is it a rare thing to have a carbine without stake marks. Should I get an original flip sight?

I would not put a stake mark on that receiver is there isn't one already. You can try for a flip sight but you may end up with the same issue. I have heard of others using a small amount of blue locktite to keep the rear sight from moving.

[sapper911]

High wood not low wood btw. Is it worth more without the stake marks? did they issue these with un staked rear sights?

[Enfield47]

The flip sights were replaced in the field with the adjustable sights so yours would be correct. I wouldn't mess with replacing the rear sight with a flip one, the adjustable is a superior improvement. Is your rear sight USGI?

[Milsurp Collector]

Should I get an original flip sight?

There is a 99% chance that any flip sight you might buy today is fake, not original.

I would not stake it because you probably don't have the right tools. The technical manual also warns that doing it right takes some skill.

(1) The staking operation is extremely critical and the success
of such an operation will depend largely upon the individual skill and
judgment of the operator. Many problems will ariseCare in staking of the rear sight should be vigorously emphasized,
as improper staking will render it impossible to fit a new rear sight on
the carbine at a future date should the sight be damaged and in need
of replacement. Study carefully and follow the illustration regarding
the proper type of staking operation. The upper sharp edges of the
dovetail slot on the carbine are easily sheared and such a shearing action
will ultimately result in an unserviceable weapon.
r. On the machined type adjustable rear sight the index plate is
held in place by a small screw. On some of these sights the screw is
staked in such a manner as to prevent its removal. Take care, when
zeroing the rifle by a movement of the index plate, to loosen the screw
only enough to permit movement of the index plate.
s. Exercise great care during the procedure outlined in h above,
as the dovetail base of the sight is hardened as well as the dovetail slot
in the receiver. Because of this hardening of both of the mating parts,
it is necessary that the load limits, as prescribed and as indicated on the
torque wrench, be rigidly maintained. If too great a pressure is exerted
in the placement of the sight, the receiver of the carbine will crack or
break; and if too light a pressure is exerted, the sights will work loose
under the shock of firing.
t. The zeroing plate on the stamped type sight is directly below
the ramp and in the center rear portion of the sight base. Move this
zeroing plate with a small drift to prevent damage to any of the components
of the sight and weapon.
Note. If sights when received are packed in light oil, do not degrease. If sights
are packed in heavy oil, degrease only with dry cleaning solvent; do not vapor degrease.
u. Sometimes sufficient material is not available on the receiver
to permit an adequate staking job. This is particularly true when
the sight is moved to one of its extreme positions. In this case,
the procedure outlined in m above should be followed and new indents made
to permit adequate staking.
v. Sometimes a dovetail slot in the receiver may be too big to receive
any sights available. In such cases, where less than 18 pounds
pressure is required indent the area in front of the dovetail slot. This
can best be done by using a large steel drift, placing the drift in the
location shown in figure 41, and rapping the drift with a hammer.
Undertake this operation with extreme caution. A blow only hard
enough to cause a flow of metal into the dovetail slot is necessary.



w. When the sight requires more than 54 inch-pounds pressure to
assemble it to the receiver, remove the sight assembly and file the bottom
of the sight base as shown in figure 42. Do not attempt to file the
edges of the sight base, and under no circumstances should the receiver
be filed.

I would remove the sight with a brass punch going from left to right - the dovetail is tapered and the sight should be removed and inserted only from the right side - lightly peen the base of the dovetail and the base of the sight, and use blue Loctite or equivalent. Many M1 Carbines tend to shoot to the right for some reason so the rear sight often is biased to the left of the midline to compensate and to allow full windage adjustment.

[aghauler]

tag

[ojisan]

A piece of shim stock can be placed under the sight base to tighten the fit in the dovetail.
How thick a shim do you need?
Go get a cheap feeler gauge at the auto parts store that goes down to .001" thickness.
Cut pieces off the blades in progressively thicker sizes and test fit to get the tension you want.

Easy and there are no permanent mods to the gun.

[dfletcher]

Whether it's advisable on a collectible, I don't know. But on modern guns when there's been a need I've centerpunched the floor of the dovetail and that has tightened things up properly.