Swiss reloading problem??

[B Gardner]

[1bulletBarney]

I suggest to PM Latigo with this. Latigo's sticky has a wealth of reloading info and he is very good about replying to PM"s...

Thats the best suggestion I can give, all my reloading focuses around straight walled handgun calibers...

[ironhorse1]

That brass is brittle You need to anneal the necks.

I'm sure that you can find how to do this so the brass can be saved.

iirh

[chknlyps2]

Kinda looks like brittle brass, did you wipe it down after it was fired or is that fresh out of the chamber? I don't see any soot on the cases. I have not used 4895 to load Swiss but I have used IMR 4064 and your charge weight is close to mine for a 150 gr bullet. Not that the powders load data crosses over for this cartridge but it didn't strike me as out of line because charge weights for both powders in my Garand are pretty much the same.

[THBailey]

That brass is brittle You need to anneal the necks.

I'm sure that you can find how to do this so the brass can be saved.

iirh

I think this is correct. Never seen anything like this, but I am going to guess/speculate the batch of brass was not properly annealed after it was formed.

[not-fishing]

The next step, I use the Girard case trimmer all the time.

[B Gardner]

This was brand new never loaded brass that I purchased from Grafs. I didn't wipe down the brass. It has been sitting on my reloading bench for a few weeks, and some cleaner got spashed on a spot on the middle case. That's why it looks like it's corroded. This was the first time this brass had been loaded. I've never had to anneal brass after being fired only once. I've been using this load for years without any problems.

[Latigo]

First...........
Do you have any never loaded brass left, or did you reload them all?

[Springfield45]

That brass is brittle You need to anneal the necks.

I'm sure that you can find how to do this so the brass can be saved.

iirh

This.

[Springfield45]

This was brand new never loaded brass that I purchased from Grafs. I didn't wipe down the brass. It has been sitting on my reloading bench for a few weeks, and some cleaner got spashed on a spot on the middle case. That's why it looks like it's corroded. This was the first time this brass had been loaded. I've never had to anneal brass after being fired only once. I've been using this load for years without any problems.

You don't need to anneal brass after being fired once, normally. Your brass was not properly annealed to begin with. I suggest you take your loads apart anneal the brass and reassembly them.

[Latigo]

I was hoping he'd respond so I could have made this a teaching/learning response about brass checking and testing, but.............. In lieu of that, this is from my own board from one of my own people.
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"The broken and cracked necks are no indication of overpressure, nor is there anything abnormal about the shoulder shape (just perspective and lighting). This has nothing to do with cartridge length either.

Guessing from the pictures, the cases shown were fired in the K31, where the extra chamber width at the shoulder caused more radial stress at the neck/shoulder junction than this inadequately-annealed brass could stand. If some of the failures occurred in the 96/11, it's possible they appeared as axial neck/shoulder cracks rather than the radial and compound failures pictured (thanks to the smaller diameter of the 1911 chamber at the body/shoulder junction).

I'm not sure who makes Frontier-branded brass but suspect it was sourced from Prvi Partizan, a maker with a reputation for variable quality and occasional inadequate final anneal. "

Parashooter

[OpenSightsOnly]

This was brand new never loaded brass that I purchased from Grafs. I didn't wipe down the brass. It has been sitting on my reloading bench for a few weeks, and some cleaner got spashed on a spot on the middle case. That's why it looks like it's corroded. This was the first time this brass had been loaded. I've never had to anneal brass after being fired only once. I've been using this load for years without any problems.

Your load is fine. Have used that charge with IMR 4895 and H4895.

If you want to "save" the brass, you can anneal or farm that process out.

Have been using PPU and Norma brass from Grafs. However, if you want the best boxer brass for 7.5 Swiss - be on the look out for Swiss-made boxer brass marked Thun.

[Latigo]

OSO......... He'll never find it. My Dad brought in the only three private shipments ever to make into the US sometime in in 2003. It amounted to some 10,000 brass with an additional order of some 10,000 going to Graf's back then. The boxer bass that came to Montana was sold and shipped to Swiss rifle shooters across the US over a three month period.

The requests for more of that incredible Swiss National Match Boxer brass were declined by RUAG when they began making loaded cartridges for sale in Europe as commercial loads. It's still available in Europe, but the cost turned out to be astronomical by our standards, and livable by theirs.

[Latigo]

This is the Spec Data sheet on the new Loaded cartridges he received from RUAG when they politely declined further orders concerning the various loads.

Note: RUAG owns Norma, and these were not the old typical Norma brass.

[OpenSightsOnly]

OSO......... He'll never find it. My Dad brought in the only three private shipments ever to make into the US sometime in in 2003. It amounted to some 10,000 brass with an additional order of some 10,000 going to Graf's back then. The boxer bass that came to Montana was sold and shipped to Swiss rifle shooters across the US over a three month period.

The requests for more of that incredible Swiss National Match Boxer brass were declined by RUAG when they began making loaded cartridges for sale in Europe as commercial loads. It's still available in Europe, but the cost turned out to be astronomical by our standards, and livable by theirs.

I was lucky to get my hands on some of that Thun 7.5x55 brass. Yes, that brass came from the 2003 shipment as I had been told. Patience does payoff.

You know what, PPU or Norma is good brass and it will last long with proper annealing. If you don't anneal, sell that brass after the neck takes a set.

Besides, I do not reload to replicate GP11.