My Classic P64

[pterrell]

Got it in the other day. Looks pretty good except the side where it was buffed or lightly ground. Wondering if there is a way to re-blue it.


Whatever they put over that spot just flakes off

[watt79]

The P64 I got from classic last year had a huge grind mark on the other side next to the year. Looks like the importer took a belt sander to it.

[Enfield47]

I wonder what was on the slide that they had to grind off. Do you think they marked it with their importer mark and then had to redo it more legibly?

[watt79]

I suppose it's possible. My thinking was that maybe it was covered in cosmoline and they used a sander to scrape it off.

[pterrell]

What's weird though is that it's marked higher on the slide than where it was ground.

Either way, anyone know if using cold blue would "fix" it?

[81turbota]

Pterrell, cold blue will definitely help but it wont be as dark as the rest of the pistol. You will see a difference in shades.

I have used Kleen-Bore Black Magic cold blue to touch up some idiot scratches and edge wear on a modern pistol, it came out very nice. You can't really tell unless you look for it, but the scratches were much smaller than the large area of finish missing from your P64.

As with any finishing job, prep is key. Use a solvent to remove all oils (I used brake cleaner, test in an inconspicuous area first), scalding hot water on the surface, let dry and apply while the metal is hot. It will turn a rust brown color, wash off again with hot water and buff lightly with 0000 steel wool and oil. Reapply a few times for darker color.

[pterrell]

The rest of the slide isn't totally black. This stuff won't give it an almost painted look will it?

[81turbota]

The rest of the slide isn't totally black. This stuff won't give it an almost painted look will it?

No, it will not give a painted look. It is a little "blacker" in terms of bluing color, though. The more applications, the darker it gets. I haven't used it, but Brownell's Oxpho Blue is another popular one.

[pterrell]

Ok I just wanted to make sure. Thanks again Turbo.

This is probably a stupid question, but since I'm already refinishing this section, is it a no no to sand off the import mark?

[81turbota]

I don't know about the legal implications of defacing the import mark, but a reference to the 1968 CGA is in this thread. Lots of contrasting viewpoints, a decent read if you're thinking about it. Keep in mind those import marks are a prescribed depth, removing it would mean removing a considerable amount of metal.

http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?39485-can-you-cover-remove-a-gun-s-import-markings

[Milsurp Collector]

This is probably a stupid question, but since I'm already refinishing this section, is it a no no to sand off the import mark?

I asked the ATF that question. For firearms that are not subject to the National Firearms Act (NFA), you can remove importer markings except the serial number applied by the importer. But for NFA firearms such as machine guns, short barreled rifles, etc. you can not remove any importer markings.

That is under federal law. There may or may not be state laws that apply.

Thank you for your recent inquiry to the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF). This is in response to your email in which you inquired about removing import markings (except for the serial number) from a firearm.

It is unclear whether you are asking about GCA or NFA firearms. Here’s a summary of the law in this area depending on the firearm in question:

Please note that if you are a licensee, you must mark the firearms in accordance with the law and regulations unless you have a variance.

From the questions presented, we assume that the firearm was properly imported, properly marked and placed into commerce. An individual then wishes to remove the markings.

Under the Gun Control Act (GCA), the serial number requirement comes from 18 U.S.C. 923(i). On those weapons considered “GCA firearms,” serial numbers may not be removed because 18 U.S.C. 922(k) explicitly prohibits this. 18 U.S.C. 923(i) also requires other markings that the Attorney General shall prescribe. However, the statute requires only the serial number. Further, there is nothing in 18 U.S.C. 922(k) or any other section that prohibits the removal of importer’s marking (other than serial number) from a weapon that is only a GCA firearm.

Under the NFA however, 26 U.S.C. 5842 requires the serial number, the name of the manufacturer importer or maker, and the other markings that the Secretary (AG) may prescribe. 26 U.S.C. 5861(g) of the NFA prohibits the obliteration, removal, change, or alteration of the serial number or other identification required by the NFA. Likewise, 26 U.S.C. 5861(h) prohibits the receipt or possession of a firearm having the serial number or other identification required by the NFA obliterated, removed, changed, or altered. Additionally, section 5861(1) prohibits a person from making, or causing to make a false entry on any application, return, or record required by the NFA, knowing the entry is false. Read in conjunction, these statutes prohibit the removal of any required information from the firearm, to include the model designation, as well as the entry of a false identification (e. g , model) on any application, return or record.

Therefore, if the firearm is a NFA firearm, NO marking may be removed, obliterated, changed or altered.

There may be State laws that pertain to this proposed activity. Contact State Police units or the office of your State Attorney General (www.naag.org) for information on any such requirements.

We trust the foregoing has been responsive to your inquiry. Should you have additional questions, please contact your local ATF office. A listing of ATF office phone numbers can be found at: http://www.atf.gov/field.

Regards,

Firearms Industry Programs Branch, ATF

If anyone has questions about federal firearms laws the best thing to do is email the ATF directly fipb@atf.gov and get an answer straight from the agency, rather than asking people on a forum. The ATF acknowledged my email minutes after I sent it and then sent an answer to my question 2 days later.

[81turbota]

Excellent clarification. Thank you for posting Milsurp Collector.

[Capybara]

OP, it's probably too late but couldn't you send that back to Classic for a better looking one? I don't mind scratches and dings on my C&Rs but that looks pretty thrashed, unless they sold it to you as a "really thrashed" model at a substantial discount? Earlier this year, AIM and J&G had almost brand new looking P64s for $259.00-$279.00, not sure if anyone does anymore?

Best of luck with the refinish.

[pterrell]

OP, it's probably too late but couldn't you send that back to Classic for a better looking one? I don't mind scratches and dings on my C&Rs but that looks pretty thrashed, unless they sold it to you as a "really thrashed" model at a substantial discount? Earlier this year, AIM and J&G had almost brand new looking P64s for $259.00-$279.00, not sure if anyone does anymore?

Best of luck with the refinish.

It was the on sale one. They said it had been buffed on the side. It will still shoot great I'm sure.

[1bulletBarney]

A friend of mine let me borrow some leftover Birchwood Casey Cold Blue for spot blueing.

I used it to reblue a buttplate for my K31. I did 3 applications, XXXX steel wool after each application. I was very happy with how the buttplate came out.

Pterrell, with the proper prep, as long as the reblued area on slide blended in with existing finnish your P64 would look much better then how it looks in your pic in OP...

Good luck...