Stock Woodworking Question

[Enfield47]

I am in the process of restoring my Enfield Mk V back to military configuration. I recently received the new forend and handguards from Enfield Specialists in the UK and the wood is a beautiful American black walnut. I have to do fitting work for the barrel band, they recessed a cutout but it isn't deep enough nor the correct shape to fit the band (it's too round). The same is true of the handguard ends that fit under the band. I also have to cut out and fit the front band to the forend where it attaches to the nose cap. The forend and handguards are both chunkier than the sleeker wood typically seen on a WWII No.1 MkIII so I have some work ahead of me to get everything to fit properly.

What type of wood file do you use and recommend for this type of work? I would like to find a good file that is roughly equivelant to 200 grit sandpaper to shape and smooth out the surfaces under the two bands. I'm thinking a triangular file might work, but I don't know what is a good one to look for.

I also need to get a good set of wood chisels but I don't know if I need a set or just a couple of chisels to work with. What should I look for in good chisels? Any particular brand to look at or avoid?

Post up your recommendations on other tools I may need for this project too.

Thanks in advance.

[bubbala]

i would make some wood sticks the size and shape you need,want. and either get some sticky back sandpaper or glue plain sandpaper on the sticks.

180 grit is pretty fine,but no harm in going slow.

[pacrat]

What type of wood file do you use and recommend for this type of work?

Use "files' made for metal work. Come in different grades from "bastard" real course. To "fine". Also get a file card for cleaning the teeth. Which you will do often.

Files made for wood working are called "rasps" and are much too course for the fine work you will be doing.

Sandpaper on a stick idea will also work. Or hit a beauty supply store and buy a bucket of disposable abrasive fingernail files in "course" grade.

Which ever you choose as tools. Go slow. Then slow down some more and check fit often.

[Armistice]

Home Depot has decent files made by Nicholson. I use them at work. There are also some small fine files made by General there too. I have the General set at home for gunwork. Check that option out. They are in a black case with yellow and also comes with a removable handle and come in a variety of shapes

[knucklehead0202]

pacrat has a great idea with the disposable nail files, as they are paper or cardboard-backed, so you can trim them to the size you need with scissors. From experience, I can tell you that files and wood are a total ballache. And only break out the dremel if you need to remove a lot of material and have a very steady hand, lol. I've done some dumb s**t...

[Armistice]

I have my K31 hunting stock to jack with. Woodworking party? Lol

[Enfield47]

Thanks guys, I like the idea of gluing sandpaper to a stick of the correct dimension. The nail files are also a good idea, I may try that first. I'll probably forgo the file for now but if I need one eventually I'll be on the lookout for a bastard file and a file card to clean it with.

I'm not getting a dremmel anywhere near this stock. I had to dremmel out the cracks in my P14 stock and that was a nightmare. It's way too easy for me to screw something up beyond repair. LOL

Aaron, what are you doing to your K31 stock?

Any other thoughts or tips on the fitting process?

[stonefly-2]

exacto knife brand makes a good range of vary small planes,gouges and other tools. new wood is going to be proud on all surfaces, make sure your interior inletting is perfect before you work the band area.

[Armistice]

Metal inletting and then bedding and floating. I got a dremel, buzz buzz

[Enfield47]

Aaron, don't let a Dremel near your stock. It will wind up in the trash before you know it.

[SMarquez]

I don't like exacto blade for stock work. They are too flexible. You want stiff to control your cuts. You can get as much from a chisel by pulling as by pushing.
Find something to practice on Brian before you put a chisel to wood. You can buy chisels in any shape from Rocklers and you can buy pieces of wood to practice on too. You want to clamp the stock as close to where you are working as possible.
Like using honing stones you need to go slow and check your fit as you go along.

[SMarquez]

It's been a little while since I did any wood to metal fitting. You need something to coat the metal with and then slide the metal in place. When you remove the metal the high spots will be marked. Remove the high spots with files, scrapers or chisel. Refit and repeat. When you have your coating making full contact you should have a tight fit. I hope this makes sense. Some old timers used kerosene in an alcohol lamp and used the soot to coat the metal. You could use a dark lipstick too. Brownells and Midway should have inletting black too.

[stonefly-2]

I don't like exacto blade for stock work. They are too flexible. You want stiff to control your cuts. You can get as much from a chisel by pulling as by pushing.
Find something to practice on Brian before you put a chisel to wood. You can buy chisels in any shape from Rocklers and you can buy pieces of wood to practice on too. You want to clamp the stock as close to where you are working as possible.
Like using honing stones you need to go slow and check your fit as you go along.

exacto blades are no good, yes too flexible but they make a variety of tools. (blades) the round gouges of different sizes worked very well on this last project. candle soot, refit, shave off , repeat. but that was interior.

[Enfield47]

It's been a little while since I did any wood to metal fitting. You need something to coat the metal with and then slide the metal in place. When you remove the metal the high spots will be marked. Remove the high spots with files, scrapers or chisel. Refit and repeat. When you have your coating making full contact you should have a tight fit. I hope this makes sense. Some old timers used kerosene in an alcohol lamp and used the soot to coat the metal. You could use a dark lipstick too. Brownells and Midway should have inletting black too.

Funny you should mention that Steve, I was just reading an article about using inlet black to identify the high spots in the wood where it rubs against the metal. Most of the work I have to do is fitting the nose cap and the two barrel bands so I don't think I'll be able to use it for that work, but I might though when I fit the barreled receiver into the fore end.

I'm going to have to plane down or somehow get the fore end to match the width of the hand guards. All of the wood is cut quite full so it all needs some work. In the article they recommend going slow and working 15-20 min at at time then taking a break by walking away to help avoid mistakes.

[Father Ted]

A file would have to evenly follow the contour you are shaping... With every stroke or you will get flat spots. Definitely do the sandpaper glued to thin strips of wood. If you know someone with a table saw, have them cut you a bunch of pieces the with you need but a few thickness' around 1/16-1/8, so that they will flex to the shape. Good luck, it seems like everyone who gets these replacement handguards for trials rifles always have a headache getting them to fit correctly.