Another M1A Problem Discussion - SOCOM16

[Kilber]

I recently purchased a Springfield Armory SOCOM 16 rifle. I have been to the range with the rifle 3 times. On each occasion, I have experienced light or no primer strikes. The rifle will perform well for the first 2-3 shots, but then the hammer will drop and a round will simply not fire. When the round is removed from the chamber and inspected, there is little to no indication of a strike on the primer.

I have contacted Springfield, and this was their reply:

"Have you checked to make sure the spindle valve is in the vertical position? It sounds like a gas issue, and that could be the problem."

Now, maybe I just don't know much about the operating cycle of the M1A. However, if I'm getting light primer strikes with an AR, the last place I check is the gas system. Am I missing something here? I will check the spindle later when I get home, but how does the spindle affect the trigger, hammer and firing pin...?

[Jaybird]

I'm no expert but it doesn't sound like a gas system issue if the primer isn't even being ignited to light it up. Maybe an ammo or hammer spring issue. Good luck with a fix. Luckily I haven't had any issues with my Socom 16.

[thai562]

I am sorry to hear you have a problem with yours new rifle.
It was odd that Springfield ask you to check the gas valve.
These are some of the things you could check.
1. Check if the firing free floating. You would have to remove the bolt (this could be tricky for first timer) and slide the firing pin back and forth. It should move freely.
2. Make sure the bolt is completely close before firing. The m1a have a cut-out in the receiver to stop the firing pin from moving forward if the bolt is not completely close. It a safety thing. This could happen if you sized the brass long by a few thousandth, or have some build up in the chamber, preventing the round to completely seat. Use factory ammo if you are not already.

Good luck my friend.

[Sailormilan2]

I recently purchased a Springfield Armory SOCOM 16 rifle. I have been to the range with the rifle 3 times. On each occasion, I have experienced light or no primer strikes. The rifle will perform well for the first 2-3 shots, but then the hammer will drop and a round will simply not fire. When the round is removed from the chamber and inspected, there is little to no indication of a strike on the primer.

I have contacted Springfield, and this was their reply:

"Have you checked to make sure the spindle valve is in the vertical position? It sounds like a gas issue, and that could be the problem."

Now, maybe I just don't know much about the operating cycle of the M1A. However, if I'm getting light primer strikes with an AR, the last place I check is the gas system. Am I missing something here? I will check the spindle later when I get home, but how does the spindle affect the trigger, hammer and firing pin...?

Are these factory loads or reloads? The "light Primer strikes" could be the result of the floating firing pin hitting the primer.
If you are using reloads, have you fully resized them? Also, if the reloads started as once fired milsurp brass, they could have been fired in a machine gun with an over sized chamber. Sometimes that brass requires being sized twice, due to brass "spring back" for it to properly fit. Were they sized with a standard full length die, or a small base die?
If the brass is out of spec, the loaded round may preventing the bolt from fully rotating into position. If that the case, the hammer will drop, but not hit the firing pin.
If you are using factory ammo, what kind it is?

[Kilber]

Are these factory loads or reloads? The "light Primer strikes" could be the result of the floating firing pin hitting the primer.
If you are using reloads, have you fully resized them? Also, if the reloads started as once fired milsurp brass, they could have been fired in a machine gun with an over sized chamber. Sometimes that brass requires being sized twice, due to brass "spring back" for it to properly fit. Were they sized with a standard full length die, or a small base die?
If the brass is out of spec, the loaded round may preventing the bolt from fully rotating into position. If that the case, the hammer will drop, but not hit the firing pin.
If you are using factory ammo, what kind it is?

The ammo is the walmart (new manufacture) perfecta and ZQ.

[dozer wright]

Check to see if the hammer even stays back. Pull the bolt back and pull trigger does it snap loud if its just a quite click pull the trigger assembly one or more of the hooks that holds the hammer back may have broke.causing the hammer to ride forward on the bolt not when the triggers pulled . Mine did this early on.
Do not use the socom any more if this is the case. Although highly unlikely it could cause a round to go off you didn't want to .

[FeuerFrei]

Buddy of mine bought an M1A standard "used" and had the same problem.
We measured the OAL of the ammo and ruled that out.
I swapped the hammer spring with one of mine... same problem.
Swapped firing pin... problem found. Pin was too short and ever so slightly peened.
Shoots Wolf/Tula and the good stuff now. Steel cased ammo has HARD primers.

If all else fails send it back for warranty or have them send you a new FP and hammer spring.

[edwardm]

Firing pin too short, firing pin tail hanging up on the receiver safety bridge, weak hammer spring, rifle not fully in battery (can go 'click', but the safety bridge prevents/limits firing pin movement), or someone did a bubba trigger job on the rifle.

Take the trigger group out and take good pics of the hammer/sear/trigger engagement surfaces, get a length on the firing pin, and inspect the FP tail and the bridge cutout/relief.

[russ69]

.... However, if I'm getting light primer strikes with an AR, the last place I check is the gas system. Am I missing something here?..?

Yes. It sounds like the gun is not fully cocking. The light strikes are marks from the floating firing pin and not a light strike. Is the bolt being held back after the last round? If not a sure sign of an under powered load (or gas issue). Try some premium ammo (Federal target) and see if the problem goes away.

[Kilber]

Yes. It sounds like the gun is not fully cocking. The light strikes are marks from the floating firing pin and not a light strike. Is the bolt being held back after the last round? If not a sure sign of an under powered load (or gas issue). Try some premium ammo (Federal target) and see if the problem goes away.

The bolt locks to the rear on an empty mag. How much further does the bolt need to go back to fully cock the hammer, if it is stripping and chambering a round?

[Pryde]

Seems to be lots of problems with these guns.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=964038

[Kilber]

Seems to be lots of problems with these guns.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=964038

Yeah, I've seen all of those threads. Unfortunately, it wasn't until after I was already locked in for this one; hopefully it's just a closed valve...

[0321jarhead]

Let's just back up a moment? You said that you recently purchased this rifle. New or used? Before you took it out to play with, did you read the owners manual? Did you clean it and properly lube the rifle as well as the bolt and trigger housing before taking it to the range? That can make a big difference. A lot of people think that its fresh from the factory and that it can be taken out of the boxed and be ready to rock and roll. Wrong!

[H2O MAN]

Before you took it out to play with, did you read the owners manual? Did you clean it and properly lube the rifle as well as the bolt and trigger housing before taking it to the range? That can make a big difference. A lot of people think that its fresh from the factory and that it can be taken out of the boxed and be ready to rock and roll. Wrong!

. . . +1

[23 Blast]

Let's just back up a moment? You said that you recently purchased this rifle. New or used? Before you took it out to play with, did you read the owners manual? Did you clean it and properly lube the rifle as well as the bolt and trigger housing before taking it to the range? That can make a big difference. A lot of people think that its fresh from the factory and that it can be taken out of the boxed and be ready to rock and roll. Wrong!

Cleaning? Lubrication? Blasphemy! Isn't the M-14/M1A the American Kalashnikov? You know, unlike the AR which needs to be clean enough to be used in a brain surgery operating room, the M1A can be lubricated with super glue and gravel, and still work fine?!?

FWIW I have been very happy with my M1A Loaded that I bought back in 2005. My serial number is in the 200xxx range so it's not one of the "Golden Age" ones. The only problem with mine is that ammo is too expensive to shoot it more.

Actually, I did have one minor problem with it, but thankfully it was not on anything important. The spring-loaded buttstock "door" where you can stuff a cleaning kit inside, had the spring in the plunger break, rendering the door useless. Eventually I'll fix it, but it's only a minor detail.