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Hey all I was wondering if I could get a little help with my build please. I live in Ca. so I have to build my AR from the ground up. I ordered the RRA striped lower, Prince 50 locking kit, and Bushmaster 10 round clip today. For my lower internals I think I am going to go with the RRA 2 stage kit with hogue grips. Stock will be RRA tactical car. For my upper I am not sure if I should go with a complete or build it myself. I know there are tools required to build it myself but I have heard it is a much better way to go. Now on to my question(s). First what is the differance between a Wylde .223 and a NATO .223 chamber? Which is better? Second what is the differance between a flash hider, muzzle brake and a compensator? Third what is a "gas block" sight? Last but not least do the different hand gaurds do anything different or is it just what feels good to you and looks good. I know that I asked a lot of questions but I want to get this right the first time. Any help given would be GREATLY appretiated. Thank you.
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If this is your first AR and first build buy a complete upper, later on you can build the whole thing. It is much more complicated to assemble an upper than a lower.Originally posted by ster24
The .223 Wylde chamber is an in between chamber of 223 and 5.56. It is made by RRA and allows you to shoot 223 and 5.56 with less worry than a regular 223 chamber.
A flash hider is designed to do just that, hide the flash. It opens up to a bigger diameter than the barrel allowing the unburned powder to burn while still concealed. A muzzle brake and compensator are the same thing. They generally have holes/slots on top and on the sides that direct the gases up and out to reduce recoil/muzzle jump.Second what is the differance between a flash hider, muzzle brake and a compensator?
It is a gas block that generally has a picatinny rail on top/sides to mount a variety of sights including flip up sights instead of the standard tower front sight.Third what is a "gas block" sight?
A vast amount of handguards are made for a variety of purposes. Free float guards do not touch the barrel anywhere but at the receiver and improve accuracy. Railed guards allow you to mount accessories on the guard. A railed guard can also be free float but they arent cheap. Look around and you will find something you like.Last but not least do the different hand gaurds do anything different or is it just what feels good to you and looks good. I know that I asked a lot of questions but I want to get this right the first time. Any help given would be GREATLY appretiated. Thank you.Please, calm down. -
Thank you so much blkA4alb. You have cleared up a lot of questions for me and made it a little eaiser. Is RRA a good way to go for an upper assembly? I am looking to do a little more long range shooting with this one so I would like to go "sniper" style build. I have heard a "bull" style barrell is what I am looking for. Any suggestions?Comment
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first things first...it's a "magazine," not a "clip."Comment
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Sorry. I said it was my first rifle. I am used to pistols. Please forgive my ignorance.
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How far is long range shooting for you?
If you are going for a sniper type build, are you sure you want a CAR stock?
You will also have to decide if you want an A2 (built in carry handle) or A3 (flat top) upper.Comment
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Even in handguns its still a magazine.Originally posted by ster24Sorry. I said it was my first rifle. I am used to pistols. Please forgive my ignorance.
a clip is likt the device that holds 8 cartriges in the M1 Garand or others like that.Comment
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I really like the look of the carry handle but I want to get a good scope and have read the flat top is better for that. The AR I fired last week (that got me hooked) had a car stock and I liked the feel of it. I don't know the exact distance I want to shoot I just don't want a close quarters type entry weapon. I live near and work on a marine base and that is where most of my shooting will be done. I love the look of the entry style so I will build that next.Comment
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RRA is fine, but be aware that there is about a 2-3 month wait to receive anything. The upper I have now is a 20" chrome-moly bull barrel from www.model1sales.com . I received in within the week and I am very satisfied with it, especially for the price. A bull barrel is much thicker than a standard barrel, they resist warping which is why they are more accurate. You don't really need the 24" length unless you will be shooting wayyy long distance, the added weight isn't worth it over the 20". Right now my AR is weighing in at 11.5 pounds, its not a lightweight. If your going with a long range rifle definatly get a free floated handguard. BTW, my names LukasOriginally posted by ster24
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Please, calm down.Comment
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I would recommend a flat top for your first upper, you can always get a carry handle that attaches to it but still gives you the versatility to mount optics.Originally posted by ster24Please, calm down.Comment
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Thank you LUKAS
. I talked to RRA today and they said by the time my 10 day wait for my lower was done it would be at the FFL. Is that a lie or are they just back ordered on uppers? I like the look of that upper on the model one link. This is so much fun but I want to do it right.
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ok so you are going or a sniper / varmenter.. first thing for that style, free float is a must. seccondly with a typical 24" bull (biger diamiter) barrel a compensator is not nessicary... at all and it makes a long rifle longer and makes inpsecting the crown more difficult. if you chamber in 5.56 you can shoot 5.56 and .223 but the other way around is not reccomended. as far as accessory rails you have to ask yourself how much crap do i want to tack on the front of my rifle? probably a bipod and posably a flip up front site (on a pickitinney gas block) but lazer, flashlight, forward grip, toilot paper despensor are not nessisary on a sniper rifle. the next thing to consider is price. you can go anywhere from a $400 midway dpms special (mine does sub .5 moa) up to the sky is the limit. lastly remember you need glass. many consider the super sniper 10x the bare minimum at $300 + about $100 for decent rings
just my my $.02Comment
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Not only is shooting 5.56 in a 223 chamber not recommended, it is dangerous. The tighter chamber tolerances of the 223 are not made to withstand the extra 10,000 psi of the hotter 5.56 round. For a long range build I would go with a non railed forend but with a bipod stud. I have the harris swivel bipod and its great.
If you want some reading... www.ammo-oracle.comPlease, calm down.Comment
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sure, you need a upper block..$30, punch set $20, gauge set $75, armorers wrench $30 and basic toolsComment
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I am a mechanic and with the exception of that weird wrench at the bottom of your picture (assuming that is the armour wrench?) and the 3 others in the middle, I have all of those tools. Is that all I need? That is nothing at all. I still think I might buy a prefab first then start building my own after. Thank all of you for all of your input, it has been so helpfull. Any more help will be taken with gratitude!Comment
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