Trying to Zero an AR for 300 Meters using 25 Yards

[Gomphe]

Hello Everyone,

I've scoured the various threads for a good AR-15 zero range explanation, and I can't seem to find a consistent answer to solve my problem. So here is my dilemma, I am trying to zero my AR so that my point of aim (POA) is at 25 and again at 300 meters while using only a range that is 25 yards long. Short of standing back 6 feet (or 2 meters) from the firing line to zero my AR, can anyone make any suggestions to address this problem?

Yes, I can probably zero my AR at 25 yards with a secondary POA at 300 yards (if I remember correctly), but I really like the range options the 25 meter zero offers. And if I do decide to zero my AR at 25 yards, what target type(s) would I use? A regular man sized silhouette target?

Thank you all in advance.

-Gomphe

[TKM]

Barrel length and bullet weight may have something to do with getting a right answer.

[Gomphe]

Barrel length and bullet weight may have something to do with getting a right answer.

Sorry to have left it out. I am using a standard 16 inch barrel and firing regular 223/556 target rounds (55 grain).

Thank you

[FML1982]

http://ballisticscalculator.winchester.com/

Try using this calc for a decent estimate

300 meters is roughly 330 yards, 23 meters is roughly 25 yards

According to that calculator a .223/5.56 sighted for 325 yards would be hitting the target at .3" above the bullseye if you were aiming dead center when you pull the trigger.

[jarhead714]

If you had a "standard" 20 inch barrel you could sight in at 36 feet and that would be that. Don't know about carbines, that's too high speed for me.

[edgerly779]

at 25 yards use a 8 1/2" x11" sheet of blank white paper and put a 1/4" black dot in middle if you can shoot the dot out you might be able to be on at 300 meters.

[toddh]

at 25 yards use a 8 1/2" x11" sheet of blank white paper and put a 1/4" black dot in middle if you can shoot the dot out you might be able to be on at 300 meters.

WRONG. At 300m the bullet point of impact would be 2-3 feet below the target.

Find the center line of your barrel-(point of impact....POI)
Find the center line of your sights-(point of aim....POA)

Factory AR runs between 2-1/8" to 2-3/16" between sights and barrel C/L.

So at 25m, you will need see a POI about 1-3/4 to 1 7/8" or so BELOW the POA.
Then at 100m, POI will be 1" to 1-1/4" below POA
Then at 300m, POA and POI will be close to touching.

If you have an optic with a BDC, you use the dots to do this.

[SuperSet]

You seen this?

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_18/556355_Improved_25M_AR15A2___A3___A4_and_AR15_Carbine_Zero_Targets____Calibrated_for_50_200M__100M__300M.html

As always, if you want a 300m zero, you should zero for that. 25Y will get you close enough, using that target.
I prefer the 50/200 zero myself. Good luck.

[edgerly779]

I was referring to rifle to maintain accuracy then the point of aim. If you want to zero for 300 then shoot 300 with your ammo then shoot at 25 yrd target to establish correlation of point of impact.

[russ69]

I was referring to rifle to maintain accuracy then the point of aim. If you want to zero for 300 then shoot 300 with your ammo then shoot at 25 yrd target to establish correlation of point of impact.

What he said.

[Sunday]

25 meters. Unless you are shooting a body sized center of mass type shooting a 50 yard or 100 yard zero will give better bullseye type accuracy. The 25 meter zero puts the bullet too far off the target at most ranges. The best way to zero in at 300 yards is as mentioned above..

[saudadeii]

http://www.bobdbob.com/~deneb/doc/targets/

[russ69]

25 meters. Unless you are shooting a body sized center of mass type shooting a 50 yard or 100 yard zero will give better bullseye type accuracy. The 25 meter zero puts the bullet too far off the target at most ranges. The best way to zero in at 300 yards is as mentioned above..

The 25 meter zero is commonly called a battle zero. It's not precision shooting.

[Army]

If an A2 rifle, crank the rear sight down until it sits on the 8/3 setting. Front sight should be screwed in or out, until the wide part of the post base is level with the sight tower housing. Traverse should sit the aperture on the center line.

Shoot 3 shots at a 25yd/m target point (size doesn't matter, but keep it around a 2" bullseye). DO NOT ADJUST YOUR SIGHTS....DO NOT CHECK YOUR TARGET.

Reload 3 more rounds, and using same hold, fire all three. Now go check you target and group size. If all 6 shots are in the same group, you can move your front sight ONLY for elevation changes, and the windage knob for traverse. LEAVE THE ELEVATION AT THE 8/3 MARK.

When your next 6 shots all fall in the center or bullseye, you are zero'ed. This zero is good for a center mass hit at 300yds.

Any distance farther than 300yds, can be compensated for with the rear elevation marks (4=400, 5=500, 6=600, 7=700, 8=800. Clicks in-between the numbers are roughly 25m changes) Do not move the front sight for any further sight adjustments.

[Gomphe]

You seen this?

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_18/556355_Improved_25M_AR15A2___A3___A4_and_AR15_Carbine_Zero_Targets____Calibrated_for_50_200M__100M__300M.html

As always, if you want a 300m zero, you should zero for that. 25Y will get you close enough, using that target.
I prefer the 50/200 zero myself. Good luck.

Yes, thank you, I saw those targets and I've down load some of them. Is there a difference between the improved w/ optics targets and the regular improved zero target (aside from the obvious)?

thanks Army for the BZO.. I was getting a headache..
btw OP, there are targets already designed to aid in this technique..
done it a thousand times.. works great..
as well as miles of literature explaining BZO process..

Thanks Bee, however is your target intended for the M16 platform? The squares are much smaller than the AR BZ targets. Additionally, am I also correct that your target is intended for regular iron sights?

Thank you